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Discussion in 'Model 3' started by Grendal, Jan 3, 2019.
Red is $2500 for the 3. (Still expensive though)
@ricohman is from Saskatchewan - I am assuming he meant CAD$ 3,300. He should be happy, with today's exchange rate, that is only US$2,492.25. He is saving almost $8 vs. buying in the U.S.!
Yes it is just the paint option, in Canada anyways. I'd prefer to buff it myself if there are minor marks.
I won't accept orange peel though. No excuse for that in the present day.
Ha! Don't buy a new car then, almost all new cars have a bit of orange peel. The most collectible American cars from the 70's are worth tens of thousands more if they have the original orange peel paint and it could be quite noticeable back then.
Personally, I like a light orange peel on my cars as long as it's fairly consistent. It's also my favorite finish for residential walls. I've paid more to get a light orange peel before. Sheetrock installers don't like the light orange peel because it doesn't cover their defects as readily as a heavier finish.
The things people worry about make me chuckle!
This ain't the 1970's. And by no orange peel I am referring to an acceptable finish for a new modern vehicle. Not a show car finish.
If I can paint a car with low VOC clear to an high standard I am sure Tesla can do the same.
Seriously, if I spend nearly 100k on a car and it arrives looking like amateur hour I won't accept it and they can find another.
I bought 4 new trucks in the last 8 years including the F450 and new Honda Pilot last year. All are very acceptable.
My car has lots of orange peel, so does pretty much every other dark colored $50,000 German car I've owned or looked at.
The below photo not great (car is dirty and too far away) but you can see a bit of what I'm talking about. The reflective lines on the car are jagged, it's noticeable orange peel and it's more noticeable in some lighting conditions.
Personally I prefer a mirror like finish but I have not seen many new cars come off the assembly line with paint like that. You tend to see it on very high end cars. There was an interesting article about what Bentley and Rolls Royce do on the production line to get rid of orange peel and it's not cheap.
Boy...this has turned into a complaint thread......or should I now say a compaint thread.
I would classify that as very minor. Major changes would be removing or signficantly changing parts of the crash structure (really any part of the central body, door beams, or longitudinal crash beams).
It might be interesting to see if they redesign the unit body for the China Model 3. I expect they won't. The Model 3 unit body design was very carefully done and works very well.
Making any major changes at this point costs research and development money, is very likely unnecessary, and could reduce crash performance. A tradeoff could be slightly lower manufacturing costs. Model 3 is already highly cost reduced due to the simplicity of the design, reduction of parts count, combining of modules, and careful arrangement of parts for easier assembly. It's possible there could be ways to economize further, but we may see more progress on Model Y.
That all said, being an agile developer, Tesla (and SpaceX) make nearly continual changes, but I'd be surprised if they made many major changes to the core mechanical structure of the car, which again is very well designed and has very good results.
All modern assembly line paint processes have slight orange peel. It's a normal result of putting paint on a very clean surface. Manufacturers actually prefer slight orange peel also because it helps hide very minor sheet metal defects.
To get rid of orange peel on a Rolls Royce, custom paint job, or any car requires deep polishing. Only very expensive cars $200k+ do that at the factory since it's so time consuming to do well.
Any vintage car competition for production cars like Mustangs that has cars with no orange peel will be judged to have non-original paint. The factory paint of original production cars have orange peel. Same today for ordinary production cars.
Many people do not understand this.
Here's one reference:
Is Orange Peel in Paint Bad, or Correct?
I Love whatever my car has. Orange Peel / Apple Peel / Peach Fuzz.
I love it. LOL
Yeah, when I'm lying on my deathbed, I'm pretty sure I won't be moaning and lamenting the fact that all the cars I owned had a light orange peel. Seriously, the longest I've ever kept a car was 19 years (a Volvo, and yes, it had pronounced, beautiful even, orange peel) and by the time I've moved onto another car I'm glad I didn't spend a single minute worrying that the finish was not perfectly flat like a hand-painted yacht that was hand worked by respirator wearing boatyard workers trying to get everything perfect for their anal owners.
Do people like this take a magnifying glass to their dates privates before having sex to make sure everything looks perfect? I'm pretty sure they must. Right before they get laughed out of the room and go to bed horny.
Why is raising the striker plate slightly to raise the rear of the door a fraction of a millimeter a bad idea? (Tesla did that on three of my doors to raise the rear, just a fraction of a mm.) In my mind it would be easily within the tolerance of the hinges and just add a tiny amount of the play at the hinges. (It would actually unload the hinges slightly, which should arguably be good for them, i.e., the striker supports more of the load of the door, taking some off the hinges.)
Elon said the multi-coat red is the hardest to apply. I'm not a painter, but If you look at the multi-coat red closely, there appear to be possibly 3 coats above the base color coat and below the clear coat. One with a gold flakes, possibly a separate one with silver flakes, but a definite coat above that which has no flakes or opaque pigment but is a translucent red, sort of like a dark red clear coat, above the other layers but below the regular clear coat. Getting all that right probably is harder or takes more steps/time in the paint booths and likely results in a higher costs and a rejection rate.
So yes, it probably does literally cost more to do due to the additional time in the painting process and higher probability of rejects.
The pearl white seems a similar concept, but maybe without the top translucent color (red) coat.
(I have no inside information about how this is done; it's some guesses based on observations.)
If my car had doors that were out a fraction of a mm I would leave them alone.
The striker is not meant to hold any weight. It is there to secure the door. The door is hung to fit properly, then the striker is installed. At least when installing a new door for repair. I've installed dozens and dozens of doors. I believe on the production line they hang the doors to fit high and the resulting weight of the components in the door bring it down this fraction of an inch.
If the striker is used to move the door up, wear will occur to the door and the striker resulting in a worn striker and door. And a clunky feeling door.
The hinges must bear all the weight as designed.