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Scan My Tesla (OBDII) Install

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If anyone is using a standard ELM327 device I highly recommend upgrading to one of the OBDLink devices. They provide data so much faster so the gauges update in real time (like 750 packets per second vs what, 20-30 for the ELM327 devices).

Yep, made that mistake. Got the OBDLink on order and hoping that will let me sync this data with my racing app!
 
Does the Tesla 3 have an OBDII port? I use a BT OBDII adapter in my ICE coupled with Torque Pro for monitoring the systems.

These cables with the odb adapter will not work with Torque Pro, only with Scan My Tesla. To run Torque Pro, you will need the EVTV device - EVTV Motor Verks Store: Tesla Model 3 OBDII Adapter, OEM Electric Vehicle Items, Model3OBDII2019
Here is another source for the cables - HRN-CT20T1 | Geotab GO | Geotab Adapters | GPS Fleet Tracking
 
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These cables with the odb adapter will not work with Torque Pro, only with Scan My Tesla. To run Torque Pro, you will need the EVTV device.

Can't you run Torque Pro if you update the PID values to match Tesla's? This sheet has lots of them listed: Model 3 CAN bus IDs and data

Really hoping i can find a way to get the OBD2 data into my data files that are generated by racing apps with speed, lap time etc.
 
If anyone is using a standard ELM327 device I highly recommend upgrading to one of the OBDLink devices. They provide data so much faster so the gauges update in real time (like 750 packets per second vs what, 20-30 for the ELM327 devices).
Good info. I have a problem with the app slow to load the gauges I've created. I'm thinking this may help.
 
Can't you run Torque Pro if you update the PID values to match Tesla's? This sheet has lots of them listed: Model 3 CAN bus IDs and data

Really hoping i can find a way to get the OBD2 data into my data files that are generated by racing apps with speed, lap time etc.

The spreadsheet has CAN bus IDs. You would have to map them to OBD PIDs. It is possible to do, since EVTV provides a file with Tesla PIDs. But they do the conversion in the firmware for their device, so it is not clear how they do that. I've asked that question over on this thread but have gotten no response.

What I ended up doing is buying both the EVTV device and the CAN bus cable, and daisy-chaining them to the can bus connector. So I can run both Scan My Tesla and Torque Pro.
 
Finally bit the bullet and bought the adapter cable and OBDLink LX adapter as an early Christmas present to myself. I'm hoping to be able to monitor my strange battery range reduction that follows my drive to work. Just curious if anyone (@amund7 ?) can suggest the best way to have an "idle" car record data for about 1 hour without the app or adapter sleeping/disconnecting for further analysis?
 
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I'm hoping to be able to monitor my strange battery range reduction that follows my drive to work. Just curious if anyone (@amund7 ?) can suggest the best way to have an "idle" car record data for about 1 hour without the app or adapter sleeping/disconnecting for further analysis?

Well, wouldn't you rather have your car sleeping? :p

Our model 3's seen to have a very distinct 30 min awake, 30 min asleep cycle while parked. I can tell by looking at the coolant temperatures and flow. When the car sleeps, it sleeps completely, there is zero data on the bus to be picked up by Scan My Tesla. But the CSV log will timestamp everything and just not give any data in the sleeping period, and the app will recover and reconnect once there is some data to be read.

We are working on integrating towards Teslalogger that will log and plot all, and for that testing I have an old phone (with a data sim) in the car 24/7, and it looks like this (plot shows cell temp mid (green) and battery inlet temp (yellow)) :

upload_2019-12-3_22-38-26.png


You would also get the same data by just recording a CSV file with Scan My Tesla, of a tab with your selected signals in, but your phone storage will run out after a few days to a week probably :)
 
I might be missing something obvious...but does anyone know how to add timestamps to the Scan my Tesla CSV file? Mine has packet numbers but they are fairly meaningless without some time stamps, especially with a line for each packet received (AKA hundreds per second).
 
I might be missing something obvious...but does anyone know how to add timestamps to the Scan my Tesla CSV file? Mine has packet numbers but they are fairly meaningless without some time stamps, especially with a line for each packet received (AKA hundreds per second).

First column is milliseconds since log start. Filename has date and time, if you want to know that too.
 
From what i've seen he is recording the phone screen and just overlaying that (which i can do now). I'm looking for a way to save the raw data and display it on the video as an overlay via the Race Render software. Basically need to link the OBD2 data to the Track Addict or Lap Timer app.

You can see what i mean in this video, instead of showing speed or G-forces you would show battery power output or throttle etc.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=26n5fS2Kql0
I think you pasted the wrong link.
 
I think you pasted the wrong link.

Nope that's what i wanted, basically im just trying to show some of the overlays that are part of the Race Render video program. Race Render takes a data file from your lap and you can select different variables to tie to the graphic overlay.

Would be sweet to integrate the Tesla OBDII data so that it is selectable within Race Render for visualization.

RaceRender by HP Tuners | Video+Data Products
 
The "scan my tesla" cable and bluetooth OBD connector arrived about 3-4 weeks ago. An executive summary, here are the problems and solutions I chose:

I. Android device

Google and forum searches, I soon found Android has a lot of variants often sold as new that often have older Android versions. For example, my wife's Android cell phone is at version 7 and only T-Mobile provides updates. Version 7 appears to have memory leaks that require maintenance at least weekly or it stops taking calls ... along with other faults.

Fortunately, Costco had a special on a $199, Samsung, Galaxy Tab A, 128 GB, 10.1" running Android 9. With only WiFi and V5 Bluetooth V5 (2 mbs), it is large but very capable. When recording data, I use the text 'gauges' since I'm interested in the CSV data file and not looking at cabin gauges.

II. Installation

The instructions are a little 'light' but in a collaborative effort, the 'Owners' group helped figure it out. Power down the car requires leaving the doors open and the power relay KLACK was the reward. Changing connectors with power ON is risky.

The final installation is a work in progress as there is not a lot of space behind the Tesla cover and no provisions for the OBD interface. In my case, only one side of the cover is clipped providing space for the wiring assembly and running the OBD cable external to the cover. The signal strength -61 db appears to be enough

III. Operational Scenario

Initial data captures showed 'noise' suggesting the Galaxy/OBD was under running the data stream. Restricting the log to the CSV format and using the simple text 'gauge' reduced these problems. There are still occasional data errors that can be easily handled in the spreadsheet.

A MacOS user, I found the Android interface inconsistent and transferring data via SD card was awkward. This was solved by "AirDroid", $25/yr subscription, that makes a web interface on the Android device supporting efficient file navigation and download to the MacOS.

IV. Initial Study

One of my interests is efficiency, OUTPUT / INPUT, expressed as an efficiency %. So I went to a favorite benchmark road, Brindley Mountain, a 1.1 mi (1.76 km), ~500 ft (~160 m), ~8% grade, South of Tennessee River, Route 231. Waiting for traffic to pass, pull onto the road and stop. Then floor the accelerator to climb the hill; turn around at the top, and; descend on cruise control.

CHILL MODE

Less 'frantic' driving, it still reaches the speed limit before anyone else at a light. So this is the first run:
scan_400.jpg

  • Initially the car has reduced power to avoid spinning the tires. But around 60 kph (~37 mph) the full power is not available. Then the full power kicks in, ~140 kW (~188 hp).
  • Full power, climbing efficiency approaches ~98%.
  • To avoid a scary curve at the top, 180 kph (112 mph).
  • On the descent, the ~103% has a slight, ~1%, decrease in efficiency.

STANDARD MODE

Not used except for benchmarks, included here:
scan_410.jpg

  • Peak power ~220 kW (~295 hp)
  • Peak velocity ~180 kph (112 mph) is also limited by the low banked curve at the top
  • Efficiency ~102% does not make sense unless there is a battery or traction motor power data problem
  • Descending efficiency, ~103% is about 1% less efficient than climbing suggesting the power efficiency is similar to chill mode
Bob Wilson