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I noticed that you need to be in Park to be able to connect.Damnit, jinxed myself. Got disconnected today on the way to work with no reconnect.
Only way to reconnect it was to unplug it. The button didn't do anything.
I noticed that you need to be in Park to be able to connect.
There is no ideal number. It reduces over time as your mileage increases. Usually 1% for every 10,000 miles.Also since I dont want to start a thread. Whats the number for an ideal nominal battery capacity?
There is no ideal number. It reduces over time as your mileage increases. Usually 1% for every 10,000 miles.
Mine is at 70.3 kWh with 40,000 miles on my 3P+.
Nominal full pack is the main measure of the battery capacity though right. So in theory that dropping to under 75% within the 8 years will be indicative of an out of spec battery?
Last I checked I am trending closer to ybbor being in the very low 70 range right now. Working the math of nominal remaining and current SOC I'm showing quite a bit of range loss too. I've never actually charged to 100% to see where the numbers end up. I'm currently at under 10k miles on the odometer. I know loss should level off a bit but I'd like to track it out of curiosity.
It's 70%.Nominal full pack is the main measure of the battery capacity though right. So in theory that dropping to under 75% within the 8 years will be indicative of an out of spec battery?
I’m a little late to the game, but today I ordered everything you have listed (for my 2018 Model 3). The MX+ is backordered but I was able to score the Tab A 7” for $35 on eBay. Question: Do you run power to the Tab constantly? Does the ProClip hold the Tab pretty firmly? I’ve had a few ProClips over the years and they’ve worked great. Any other comments or tips appreciated.2017-2018 Model 3
2019-2020 Model 3
The MX+ is on sale for $60
Also ProClipUSA mounts are 20% off with code BLACKFRIDAY
Samsung Galaxy Tab A 7"
I’m a little late to the game, but today I ordered everything you have listed (for my 2018 Model 3). The MX+ is backordered but I was able to score the Tab A 7” for $35 on eBay. Question: Do you run power to the Tab constantly? Does the ProClip hold the Tab pretty firmly? I’ve had a few ProClips over the years and they’ve worked great. Any other comments or tips appreciated.
So i just got an OBDII connector cable from e mobility driving solutions in Germany and put together a quick video on how to install it for use with Scan My Tesla. Was pretty easy and the data is really cool, trying to find a way to overlay some of this on track videos somewhat painlessly...
Will add another video with some interesting data soon!
I would like to compare it to the value measured with a Watt meter to determine the efficiency of the AC-DC converter.
Thank you for your reply.You can start a new trip (or select 'reset trip' from the arrow menu in the default 'Trip' tab) before you start charging. Please note, to save canbus traffic and make sure the other signals actually come in at all, these will not update on the fly if you are using an ELM327 adapter. Only OBDLINK or other STN1110 based adapters will update these counters on the fly. If you have an OBDLINK you don't need to follow this last step:
You can actually close the app while charging. Then revisit that tab again after charging, or just switch to another tab and back while connected to the car, they should update, and you should see on the AC Charge reading how much the BMS has recorded as coming into the battery.
Thank you for your reply.
I have the ODBLINK MX+ so I should get the updates on the fly as mentioned.
I also created a new trip with an AC Charge (kWh) display.
However, I noticed that the car go to sleep after few minutes, so the ODBC plug get disconnected.
So when I will return to the car after an overnight charging, after I open the door and weak up the car,
I wonder if the ODBC will display a correct value for the AC Charge display?