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Smart Summon in the UK

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FSD was an $3000 upgrade (that included upgrade to FSD computer) on top of EAP that was $5000 which had very many happy customers, who also had to pay for Autopilot which is now rolled into a slightly inflated base price. iirc There was a brief upgrade discount to FSD at $2000. So EAP + FSD was $7000/$8000.

Tesla decreases the price of Enhanced Autopilot after delivery temporarily, still hasn't fixed Full Self-Driving price - Electrek

More recently, FSD (as shipped with UK Model 3 and more recent other models) combined EAP + future FSD features originally for $6000 and now $7000 (post advanced summon, effectively V10)

FSD price change again - Tesla Owners Online

Intermediate pricing, upgrades and sales omitted.

In UK, FSD was a discounted £4900 (4800?) when Model 3 orders opened, increasing to £5800 at end of May. Most people lost their FSD discount before delivery due to spec changes or price reductions being based on current order price.

So current UK FSD price isn't too far removed from original EAP pricing.

Apologies for mostly $ pricing. I think that was the correct historical pricing?
 
“future FSD releases” is a bit of a nebulous thing though.

I note from another thread on here that some of the features in the latest firmware that are switched on in the States (the road furniture identification stuff) is only available on HW3.0 cars. HW2.5, which was sold up until I believe November 2018 are currently *sugar* outta luck.

Lot of people complaining that they paid for FSD and have essentially been obsoleted within 12 months, with no upgrade path to HW3.0 currently available (chargeable or not)

I wouldn’t assume that FSD bought today would run the same hardware as in 12 months time, or less if you happen to buy at an exceptionally unlucky time. This isn’t too dissimilar from other tech cycles, but when you’re talking about tens of thousands of pounds.. it’s not so trivial to eat the losses.
 
AP 2.5 is upgradable to FSD computer and if you paid for FSD its a free upgrade when FSD features become reliant on it - code for, its taking a little longer to roll out than Tesla first suggested.

AP 2 to FSD upgrade is a little more problematic as its not plug compatible - not sure what state of play is ATM, but I get the impression that its much more tricky to install (potentially sensor changes/rewiring) but it will happen, eventually.

AP 1 is a completely different beast - Mobileye. Not sure if FSD was ever offered as an upgrade?

The issues seem to be delays in rolling out FSD hardware even though nothing significant in FSD uses it yet - I get that people (many of which paid $3k a long time ago) want cones and FSD preview, but, according to Tesla, current FSD driving capability is within capacity of AP 2/2.5 hardware so driving wise, FSD computer currently brings nothing to the party.

So as long as you are not on AP1, IMHO car is not obsolete as far as FSD is concerned, it just may take a while to catch up. HW4 is touted for 2021+ iirc and is meant to be plug compatible with HW3/FSD.
 
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Has anyone with FSD used that hack to store a second phone in the car, with only Bluetooth active, to bypass the 6m range limitation?

I’ve specced FSD and am planning to do this, even though at 20m it’s still of limited use, but concerned about leaving a phone key in the car (I presume Bluetooth connection = phone key)

Is this a really bad idea? I know you can apparently not leave the doors unlocked with a phone key, but if someone got into the car somehow wouldn’t they be able to drive it?
 
I demoed Summon yesterday to some work colleagues who were very impressed that it went backwards and forwards a bit (only while I was in touching distance, otherwise it just wouldn’t respond), then kept disconnecting from my phone meaning I had to keep reopening the app, and it finally giving up, parked at an angle to where it was started.

I had to sheepishly get in and repark it, using my hands and feet no less!
 
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That is problem for me. To park my car I need smart summon to work easily, and every time. Smart summon was a big selling point for me.

If I have the same problem, the car is going back for a full refund within the seven try it out days that Tesla offer.
Going back and forwards is reliable, for the most part. If you’re just going to use it to park (in and out of garage) then it should be ok.

I was being a bit dramatic, however I do have the occasional problem where it just says “Disconnected from car” over and over. Usually restarting the app fixes that.
 
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Another feature were not allowed yet (because regs require a continuous press of any remote control button, and deadman’s switch) :- double-tap the parking break button on the stalk and it will auto-reverse into your garage once you get out and close the door, if lined up correctly.


EB4990C5-F9B1-44D5-A139-81B1CAA857D3.jpeg
 
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Thanks for that advice, will be one of first things to test out. I have printed out that page to remind me.

Assume you mean parking brake button. I suppose it is technically possible to have a command that breaks an operation - especially as the car has, in theory, almost a fully automatic parking feature. Please correct me if I am wrong.
 
Just had cause to move my car back to get a long ladder out.

I will reiterate what I said before - Forward and Reverse are fairly reliable*

Smart Summon (select a location on the map close to you) and "Come to me" (requires Summon Standby to be enabled, which leaves the sensors, cameras and computer active) are almost completely useless.

With Smart Summon, you can't zoom in on the map so the crosshair can only give a fairly general location. In my experience the car does not drive remotely close to the crosshair point, and usually gives up before it gets there.

"Come to me" is just ridiculous. Since you can't be more than about maybe 1.5 metres from the car it basically might as well be called "Follow Me", except you can't stand to the side of the car as you have to with regular Summon because the car is trying to drive to you, so what happens is that the car just complains about "waiting for path to clear". Totally useless.

I imagine it works a lot better with the second phone key hack - but that's a pretty big risk if you're not just demoing it.

* When I say reliable, I mean when you don't have to close and reopen the app, or turn Bluetooth off and back on again, to stop it endlessly saying "Disconnected from vehicle".