Interesting to see so many hams. I've had my license since the late 70s, but haven't played with it since the early 80s. I even ran an antenna from my dorm window to the adjacent building, and it took a long time before it was discovered. Ha! Although, I never figured out what to talk about beyond location, rig and weather, and with school being priority I haven't touched it since. I still have my old Kenwood Twins and an older radio in the attic somewhere; my first key, and my mechanical bug on my bookshelf.
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beeeerock
Active Member
I can relate. Licensed in '78. University and I also managed to get an antenna up (down!) from the 6th floor to a couple of trees. Thin wire - it lasted the full 8 months I was there and nobody apparently found it during that time. Point Grey, UBC, in Vancouver. Over the ocean - it was the best location I ever had and I worked the world from there. Haven't been active since the late 80's, but still have the 520 and 830 boxed up in the basement... just in case... ;-) And yeah, my Vibroplex sits on the window ledge in my den... LOL
When I was in the Service in the '70's I listened to alot of shortwave radio in East Germany. The BBC with their pompous theme song, "BUMP BUMP BUMP BUMP"...
Once I caught little Radio Albania in their hour broadcast in English, about "Applying Marxist Principles to Physical Education", lol. Fascinating.
Once I caught little Radio Albania in their hour broadcast in English, about "Applying Marxist Principles to Physical Education", lol. Fascinating.
Ha, that's funny, I thought I was the only one stringing wire out a dorm window! Yep, it was a braided or twisted copper wire, must have been end-fed, I can't recall. Strung it to a stairwell window in the opposite building. Could hardly see it, or no one cared. I took it down when I figured I had to study. I pulled out the bug to show my daughter what we used to do before video games and social media.
Burton
New Member
Brand new. Just picked up my Model X, got hit by a deer within a week. Next got my wife's Model Y. Still trying to figure out where to mount EZPass in X, after wrapping and filming everything. How to get Sirius in Y, or even what all-weather mats to get for Y.
Meanwhile, have Cobra CB and Kenwood ham radio, off my old FJ Cruiser, now collecting dust in garage. Toying with idea of mounting ham radio, and was just going to plug into one of the cigarette lighter sockets. Bad idea?
And then mounting the antenna. What "road blocks" should I realize might be insurmountable?
Waited through factory closure for delivery. Spent over a week wrapping, in satin finish, changing wheels, etc., then FINALLY got to drive it. Few days later, wiped out by deer. Been in repair shop for a month, who say when they do get around to me, it will be at least another month.
Looking for best deer whistle also!
Meanwhile, have Cobra CB and Kenwood ham radio, off my old FJ Cruiser, now collecting dust in garage. Toying with idea of mounting ham radio, and was just going to plug into one of the cigarette lighter sockets. Bad idea?
And then mounting the antenna. What "road blocks" should I realize might be insurmountable?
Waited through factory closure for delivery. Spent over a week wrapping, in satin finish, changing wheels, etc., then FINALLY got to drive it. Few days later, wiped out by deer. Been in repair shop for a month, who say when they do get around to me, it will be at least another month.
Looking for best deer whistle also!
cruiserlarry
Gadgetologist
As a active ham radio operator / disaster comms volunteer, Tesla Model S, Model 3, and FJ Cruiser owner, I'll give you my two cents.
Mobile ham radios (and virtually all 2-way radio systems) should always be connected directly to the 12-Volt "cranking" battery (for Teslas its the aux battery) - never through the 12-Volt power sockets. The radios usually draw more amps when transmitting than those sockets can provide, and require more robust wire size and fused ground wiring to work safely. The bigger issue is mounting the antenna on the X since the body is not steel, and there is no good ground plane to work with for most portable antenna systems. You might be able to mount a Diamond lip mount to the frunk, but you may also damage the aluminum sheet metal from the weight / movement of the antenna itself. There is also a very small possibility the radio will interfere with vehicle electronics when transmitting, depending on the output power and antenna location, which could be dangerous. The Model Y uses standard steel body panels, so mounting might be easier. I suggest you contact someone with direct experience on the Tesla - maybe Ham Radio Outlet, or similar specialist - before installing the radio in the X or Y.
Burton
New Member
So the thought had crossed my mind to install my HAM radio in my new Model X. From what I am hearing:
* Electrical draw, especially on transmitting, requires being wired directly to the 12VDC battery, not to either cig socket (that would have been be far too easy).
* If a non-factory electrical draw occurs from the 12VDC battery, that might possibly create a system "inquiry".
* Need to find apparent ground point.
* There is no good ground plane.
* Mag mount not possible since body panels are aluminum.
* Without drilling any holes, and no mag mount possibility, an antenna lip mount might work, but over time, could easily bend that lip.
* There could be interference with the vehicle electronics when transmitting.
Other than that, should work fine. Any one want to buy a really nice Kenwood VHF/UHF radio?
Thanks for everyone taking their time to offer advise.
73, Burton, W3HFX
* Electrical draw, especially on transmitting, requires being wired directly to the 12VDC battery, not to either cig socket (that would have been be far too easy).
* If a non-factory electrical draw occurs from the 12VDC battery, that might possibly create a system "inquiry".
* Need to find apparent ground point.
* There is no good ground plane.
* Mag mount not possible since body panels are aluminum.
* Without drilling any holes, and no mag mount possibility, an antenna lip mount might work, but over time, could easily bend that lip.
* There could be interference with the vehicle electronics when transmitting.
Other than that, should work fine. Any one want to buy a really nice Kenwood VHF/UHF radio?
Thanks for everyone taking their time to offer advise.
73, Burton, W3HFX
I have a 2018 Model 3SR. I installed a Icom 880D 2M/440 radio which is plugged into the DC Power Jack. The current draw on high power transmit is never a problem. I have a trunk mount antenna with very good SWR.
The main problem with the Model 3 is the level of RFI on 2 meters. It makes it nearly unusable. I am getting S7 to S9 on some of the repeater frequencies. I tried to connect my ICOM directly to a external AGM battery, but it doesn't make any difference; The noise is still there. In addition, I like to monitor aircraft bands, and it is nearly impossible as well.
I have tried mag mount antenna, isolating the antenna from the body, different antennas. Nothing seems to help. The model 3 is a noisy beast on 2 meters..exactly the band I want to use!
As a last ditch effort, I will try a glass mount antenna on the small window.
Ham radio is alive and well here in Michigan. We have more than a couple weekly nets and before the pandemic the morning drive was very active on the bands. Its a great hobby for a techie!
The main problem with the Model 3 is the level of RFI on 2 meters. It makes it nearly unusable. I am getting S7 to S9 on some of the repeater frequencies. I tried to connect my ICOM directly to a external AGM battery, but it doesn't make any difference; The noise is still there. In addition, I like to monitor aircraft bands, and it is nearly impossible as well.
I have tried mag mount antenna, isolating the antenna from the body, different antennas. Nothing seems to help. The model 3 is a noisy beast on 2 meters..exactly the band I want to use!
As a last ditch effort, I will try a glass mount antenna on the small window.
Ham radio is alive and well here in Michigan. We have more than a couple weekly nets and before the pandemic the morning drive was very active on the bands. Its a great hobby for a techie!
Ham radio has been a great hobby during the pandemic but poor band conditions at the solar minimum. I have done some AREDN signal hunting in my '18 model 3 but didn't work particularly well. I am encouraged that there are police versions coming out which tells me noise issues must be workable on some levels.
My question would be can you tell a difference on 2m between the the 3 powered up vs sleeping. I guess this would take an HT or SDR to get some data.
I have a CT on order and that is where I am really interested. That should be interesting for FD come about 2022. Last actual FD our club operated I slept for a few hours in the 3 with the AC running and it was great.
AREDN has been a particular challenge but our local group have really worked on a local mesh so it has been fun. Nice to meet you also.
beeeerock
Active Member
So, after 30+ years away from the hobby, I got back on the air at home before Christmas. Pretty much HF only at this point, but I'm thinking about playing around with APRS and maybe a little 2m repeater use as well.
I picked up a used FT-817ND to start working QRP HF, with the recognition that it will 2m and 70cm as well. I tossed it in the Model S a few weeks ago, with the cig plug and flexible antenna... UGH - S9 noise on 2m!
I haven't tried it since, thinking the EV noise must be the issue. And since it's an aluminum car, I can't even slap my old mag mount on to see if getting the antenna outside helps any. I note that the FT-817ND seems like the front end is as wide as a barn door, so perhaps the radio isn't helping things either. I don't have anything else to test with at this point.
Wondering whether it's possible to run anything inside the car, sitting on the dash for example? Like a handheld and Mobilinkd device? If not, will an exterior antenna make it good enough to be worth the trouble? I saw the post earlier about the Diamond K412 mount - I could possible go to that, but don't really want to commit until I'm confident the performance would be decent enough to pursue more gear.
73
VA7AV
I picked up a used FT-817ND to start working QRP HF, with the recognition that it will 2m and 70cm as well. I tossed it in the Model S a few weeks ago, with the cig plug and flexible antenna... UGH - S9 noise on 2m!
I haven't tried it since, thinking the EV noise must be the issue. And since it's an aluminum car, I can't even slap my old mag mount on to see if getting the antenna outside helps any. I note that the FT-817ND seems like the front end is as wide as a barn door, so perhaps the radio isn't helping things either. I don't have anything else to test with at this point.
Wondering whether it's possible to run anything inside the car, sitting on the dash for example? Like a handheld and Mobilinkd device? If not, will an exterior antenna make it good enough to be worth the trouble? I saw the post earlier about the Diamond K412 mount - I could possible go to that, but don't really want to commit until I'm confident the performance would be decent enough to pursue more gear.
73
VA7AV
@Ingineer, do you have (a) recommended ground points and (b) more detail on how to tap into the existing fuse box for a 2M/440 installation? Can I install a 20A maxi-fuse in one of the unused locations to tap power for the radio?
I did repair one of the corroded ground studs, so I could tie in there, but I'm thinking there might be a better place to connect that is closer to the battery and better shielded from road salt. Thanks.
Yes, you can install a fuse there, or just add an in-line fuse holder and attach it (with as short of wire as possible from the fuse) to the busbar.
The body cross-section is huge. For radio equipment the best ground is as close to the transceiver as possible (after the CM choke). Look for an existing fastener, and then remove it and sand the contact area, apply ox-gard, and attach your ground lug.
The body cross-section is huge. For radio equipment the best ground is as close to the transceiver as possible (after the CM choke). Look for an existing fastener, and then remove it and sand the contact area, apply ox-gard, and attach your ground lug.
Thanks. I'll pull things apart this week and see what I can find.
Yes, I'm working on a pre-facelift 2014 S. Although I would think there has to be some thought given RE electronics upfitting on the new cars, with 3's and Y's being used for police duty.
ThisIsTrue
Re-member
Ooh: do you have any photos (or is there another thread somewhere?) showing how you installed emergency lights and routed wiring? I'm a volunteer medic in my county and as a captain, my vehicle needs to be equipped. My Model Y arrives in ~3 weeks. Thanks for any suggestions!
As a test, I mounted a cheap ($37, Amazon) Tram 1191 glass mount antenna on the fixed side glass behind the back door on the passenger side. I could have spent much more on a Larsen, etc, but I wasn't sure how well this was going to work. Turns out it works almost as well as a mag-mount on my truck roof!
I figured out the best location for the inside transducer/coupler and marked the 4 sides with pieces of masking tape. I then positioned the antenna on the outside of the glass, inside the tape markings and used a level to make sure it was vertical before attaching it. Then I went inside and mounted the coupling box.
SWR is <= 1.5 across the 2M band. I ran a full 50W powered off a SLA battery in the passenger footwell (I have not tapped power from the car yet), with no apparent issues to the car's electronics on a 100 mile test drive (50W APRS reports every 2 min, multiple 50W QSO's).
I figured out the best location for the inside transducer/coupler and marked the 4 sides with pieces of masking tape. I then positioned the antenna on the outside of the glass, inside the tape markings and used a level to make sure it was vertical before attaching it. Then I went inside and mounted the coupling box.
SWR is <= 1.5 across the 2M band. I ran a full 50W powered off a SLA battery in the passenger footwell (I have not tapped power from the car yet), with no apparent issues to the car's electronics on a 100 mile test drive (50W APRS reports every 2 min, multiple 50W QSO's).
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