Sound system lost it's "punch" after latest update

[zhu-]

Try rebooting?

Unfortunately it's hard for Tesla to act on this stuff with just anecdotal evidence. Descriptions about zippers vibrating in the morning and then not doing it at night will do absolutely nothing for them in trying to understand what's going on.

What would prove the issue is for someone to take a spectrum analyzer and run some test tones at a given volume through the system showing the difference in a before and after the problem happens fashion. That would definitively prove that it is broken.

I have rebooted several times as I mentioned but no fix. My thoughts on proving it is, even if proven, we still won't know the cause and I doubt Tesla would prioritize something like audio bugs when others have bigger problems. To me, the audio difference is quite significant from a few days ago to now.

I do plan on doing some type of recording now and later again when I perceive better audio. I just downloaded Spectrum for iOS since it had good reviews. Would recording/analyzing with an iPhone X at ear level be good enough or would I need some special equipment? I also have a Zoom H6 with XYH-6 head, though not sure if I can get the audio feed into the phone.

 

[flashflooder]

My vote is this may be a software issue. I firmly believe the bass from HD radio sounds worlds better than Bluetooth, when it seems this should be the opposite.

Interesting. Didn’t realize there was a difference based on the source. If true, you’re definitely right.

 

[PoitNarf]

It looks like I may have spoken too soon. I experienced my first complete failure of the sub on 2018.50.6 last night. My 3 was left out in the driveway and got quite cold (single digits). Went to go drive to dinner and had basically no bass at all. I was able to revive it by doing a two button reset while driving. I'm wondering if cold temperatures may be causing some issues.

 

[wupcwww]

Deep bass still not there after 50.6, huge bummer. Was reminded today when listening to a song, that in my wife's former Nissan Murano, put out some nice bass. In the 3 there was 5-10%. Was putting off logging an issue since it seemed like it would be a fixable software issue by now, but will put one in today or tomorrow. For me it never came back at 50.6 and hasn't ever really reappeared like some of the others that have reported here.
It's been awhile but I do remember the 3 having pretty serious bass to the point that I figured I would never adjust above the halfway point and most likely have to move it down for some songs.

 

[JGard]

Mine definitely seems better after the 50.6 update. However, I've noticed a lot of difference depending on the song(s) I'm listening to through streaming. Some sound great, others still sound weak.

The biggest problem I have now is songs just skipping midway through and going to the next. Super annoying.

 

[Rootbeard7]

After doing some digging it looks as though this may have affected the Model S as well, albeit earlier last year:

2018.12 has ruined the audio system

 

[ALSETJC]

I also think cold weather reduces bass output. I find much weaker bass early mornings then later in the day when the car is warmed up. I too agree Bluetooth bass is lacking compared to streaming slacker. I need to do the same back to back songs to prove this theory, but slacker randomizes it without a premium subscription. Anyone want to do a back to back comparison?

 

[JackD]

After doing some digging it looks as though this may have affected the Model S as well, albeit earlier last year:

2018.12 has ruined the audio system

My Model X is having this issue right now. When I took delivery in September, the sound was incredible. now, the sub barely moves and the volume seems lower.

 

[lee619]

I may have found a solution for some of you. It definitely has worked for me. It seems like the bass volume is attached to the forward balance settings. That is why when you switch the balance fully to the rear the bass seems to be very weak. Try switching it completely to the front and see if your bass level improves. Here are the steps I did.

1. Change balance slightly next to the front seats.
2. Restart your car by pressing the pedal and both steering wheel scrolls.
3. Test the new settings on a nice bass heavy song.
4. Profit.

Ps. I'm on 50.6
Let me know if this has helped anyone else!

 

[brobinson]

I may have found a solution for some of you. It definitely has worked for me. It seems like the bass volume is attached to the forward balance settings. That is why when you switch the balance fully to the rear the bass seems to be very weak. Try switching it completely to the front and see if your bass level improves. Here are the steps I did.

1. Change balance slightly next to the front seats.
2. Restart your car by pressing the pedal and both steering wheel scrolls.
3. Test the new settings on a nice bass heavy song.
4. Profit.

Ps. I'm on 50.6
Let me know if this has helped anyone else!

This could be placebo, because the front speakers inherently carry more bass then the rears. If you move the fader all the way to the back after doing this, do you hear bass? When its working and the fade is set to the rear, the sub in the back should still be bumping.

 

[flashflooder]

This could be placebo, because the front speakers inherently carry more bass then the rears. If you move the fader all the way to the back after doing this, do you hear bass? When its working and the fade is set to the rear, the sub in the back should still be bumping.

I think you're correct with this. None of the other speakers in the car carry ANY bass, other than the subwoofer and front door woofers. So if you shift more sound to the front, you will inherently get more bass out of the system.

 

[TEG]

I think it depends on what you are playing. A lot of what people are talking about is "mid bass" (perhaps ~50-100hz) for which the front door speakers are doing most of the output.
The concern about having extra "punch" is more about sub-bass in the ~30-50hz range. That is where the Subwoofer in back is supposed to provide the "punch".

( Some extreme music has ultra low sub-bass in the ~10-30hz range, but I didn't mention that above because the stock system doesn't provide much below 30hz... Those frequencies mostly just rattle the windows and so probably aren't wanted/needed by most people. )

 

[lee619]

This could be placebo, because the front speakers inherently carry more bass then the rears. If you move the fader all the way to the back after doing this, do you hear bass? When its working and the fade is set to the rear, the sub in the back should still be bumping.

Not a placebo. I was specifically listening from the back and notice my rear bass noticeably "thump" much more with a more frontal balance. I then retreated with setting the balance to the rear, and my rear bass had noticeably much less of the "thump". Please test it in your cars, it might have just been a fix for mine, but it for sure isn't a placebo and has dramatically enhanced my audio.

 

[mswlogo]

Try rebooting?

Unfortunately it's hard for Tesla to act on this stuff with just anecdotal evidence. Descriptions about zippers vibrating in the morning and then not doing it at night will do absolutely nothing for them in trying to understand what's going on.

What would prove the issue is for someone to take a spectrum analyzer and run some test tones at a given volume through the system showing the difference in a before and after the problem happens fashion. That would definitively prove that it is broken.

I totally agree. But even a spectrum analyzer measurement is very subjective.

Which MIC?
Which Spectrum Analyzer?
Where was the MIC Placed?
What is passing vs failing Criteria?
What test tone material?

It sounds to me like the Sub (possibly one coil) is losing connection, or an amp cutting out or very low and nothing to do with software.
Which is why it can be so hard to debug.

You'd have to have a working and failing Model 3 and do the same controlled test on each and show the difference.

 

[voip-ninja]

I totally agree. But even a spectrum analyzer measurement is very subjective.

Which MIC?
Which Spectrum Analyzer?
Where was the MIC Placed?
What is passing vs failing Criteria?
What test tone material?

It sounds to me like the Sub (possibly one coil) is losing connection, or an amp cutting out or very low and nothing to do with software.
Which is why it can be so hard to debug.

You'd have to have a working and failing Model 3 and do the same controlled test on each and show the difference.

As an engineer if someone shows me that they played a 100hz, 250hz, 500hz, 1000hz, etc., test tone at a specific level and read it with an analyzer than it gives me some opportunity to try to reproduce the problem in my own lab even if I have to make some substitutions.

Anecdotal comment that 'bass not thumpin' just isn't something I could do anything with.

 

[mswlogo]

As an engineer if someone shows me that they played a 100hz, 250hz, 500hz, 1000hz, etc., test tone at a specific level and read it with an analyzer than it gives me some opportunity to try to reproduce the problem in my own lab even if I have to make some substitutions.

Anecdotal comment that 'bass not thumpin' just isn't something I could do anything with.

Yeah, an non Engineer with his iPhone Analyzer at uncalibrated levels uncalibrated MIC.

As an “Audio? engineer” you should know it needs to very carefully done, with reasonable equipment to be of any use at all.

You can move the MIC one foot and get an entirely different reading.

Even someone sitting in the car or not can make a fairly large difference.

I agree with the spirit of the argument. Execution on the other hand is not that easy.

In fact I already DID do what you suggested. Very carefully I might add with tools most people don't have.
Is my system working to spec or not?

REW (Room EQ Wizard) on Model 3

 

[voip-ninja]

Yeah, an non Engineer with his iPhone Analyzer at uncalibrated levels uncalibrated MIC.

As an “Audio? engineer” you should know it needs to very carefully done, with reasonable equipment to be of any use at all.

You can move the MIC one foot and get an entirely different reading.

Even someone sitting in the car or not can make a fairly large difference.

I agree with the spirit of the argument. Execution on the other hand is not that easy.

In fact I already DID do what you suggested. Very carefully I might add with tools most people don't have.
Is my system working to spec or not?

REW (Room EQ Wizard) on Model 3

I do engineering with voice electronics (voice over IP telephony), not the same thing as an audio engineer but we often have overlap, such as needing to analyze noise in audio samples, etc.

I haven't looked at your use case so I don't know the answer to your question.

What I can comment generally is that if a test tone (not your favorite rock track) is played at the same output level to the system and can be demonstrated to read different decibel levels based on time of day, system state, etc., when no changes to the system have been made (flat EQ, center balance, audio soundstage gimmicks turned off) then something is wrong.

 

[TEG]

It sounds to me like the Sub (possibly one coil) is losing connection, or an amp cutting out or very low and nothing to do with software...

So I installed an aftermarket subwoofer in a different location, and I am happy with my Model 3 sound again.

While doing this install, I noticed that the plug going to the stock subwoofer speaker box wasn't pushed all the way in.
That box can vibrate a lot, so a connector not locked down might wiggle itself loose.
Imagine if all this fuss was because the person/robot supposed to plug in the subwoofer at the factory wasn't pushing hard enough and the plug wasn't locked in place by the clip...
Yes, the symptoms many report do sound like maybe only one voicecoil is working and the subwoofer speaker is putting out ~half volume.

 

[tomas]

Not sure if this has been noted... It seems each software update resets the "immersive sound" setting to standard. Personally, I like if OFF. I think bass is much better with it off. Among other things. So, if you experience what seems like a change after an update, check that setting, it may have re-defaulted on you.

 

[TEG]

Good thing I prefer "standard" setting, so I don't notice it is being changed.