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swegman: Car won't turn on (screens are dark)

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swegman, really sorry to see your troubles. Has to be asked: at what point would this car have to be considered a lemon? What's the legal recourse then for you where you live in case Tesla decides to not consider replacing your car entirely but you feel otherwise?
 
I have not thought about that and hope it does not get to that point. I do remember Tesla providing the law for the various States wen signing the final MVPA. I think they deserve a chance to fix the car before even thinking of such drastic action. I am trusting that Tesla will do whatever is needed to fix the car.
 
I have not thought about that and hope it does not get to that point. I do remember Tesla providing the law for the various States wen signing the final MVPA. I think they deserve a chance to fix the car before even thinking of such drastic action. I am trusting that Tesla will do whatever is needed to fix the car.

Sweg: sorry to hear of your troubles. I lost my car for a week soon after delivery. P1577, so I'd been waiting a very long time. The wait was painful, but when I got the car back, it ws just that much sweeter. Hold out a few days longer and it will be worth it!
 
swegman, really sorry to see your troubles. Has to be asked: at what point would this car have to be considered a lemon? What's the legal recourse then for you where you live in case Tesla decides to not consider replacing your car entirely but you feel otherwise?

There are different laws in different states (and countries). Most of the recommendations I've seen recommend giving formal notice to the manufacturer/dealer after a repair is attempted 3 times for the same problem, or if the vehicle has been out of service for 8 different incidents or more than 15-20 days. The dealer or manufacturer usually gets one final attempt to fix the problem.

That said, my experience so far says Tesla won't let it get that far.
 
If the 12V battery is down, I don't think you'll be able to connect to the car or that it can charge. They'll likely replace the 12V battery and all will be good I'm hoping.
The vehicle can still talk to home (Tesla) over 3G with the battery below the point of the 17" displays being available, at least to the point of Tesla being able to identify the main pack's SOC. There was evidence of this in the Broder reporting, for example.
 
swegman, really sorry to see your troubles. Has to be asked: at what point would this car have to be considered a lemon? What's the legal recourse then for you where you live in case Tesla decides to not consider replacing your car entirely but you feel otherwise?

Isn't this jumping the gun, a litte? Oh oh, I just sneezed. Hope I don't get pneumonia and die...let's see where did I put my will.
 
I get what you are saying and would generally agree. But I think what happened is a bit more than a "sneeze".

What happened so far, as much as it might be a real downer, does not qualify the car as a lemon under any lemon law I have heard of. If the problem can't be fixed, or keeps returning once it is, than we're talkin'. As far as I can see, nothing has happened yet to indicate either of those scenarios is happening or can be expected.
 
Velo1, even after you edited it I still see that your original post refers to the 'wrong' (30A) fuse. I'm so confused...

Hopefully it stays corrected now. I made the edits and saved it, but for whatever reason the correction didn't appear -at least the initial time. Perhaps pilot error, as I was using my iPhone, which is a bit difficult at times for me to manipulate the "keys". Thanks
 
Just got off the phone with Tesla. Still no progress. They tell me they are waiting on the engineers in CA to give further guidance. The car has now been in for repair longer than I have had it.
 
I'm not sure whether this will help or not. But when our Roadster was a couple of months old, it had an intermittent problem where, when parked, it would just start spewing apparently random error messages. And, of course, not go anywhere. We had it picked up, and interestingly they pushed it out of the garage and then drove it onto the truck! It seemed fine. But the logs had all these weird error messages. Anyway they did all sorts of stuff to it, including a new PEM, and returned it after about two weeks, just in time for an Earth Day display at work. Unfortunately about a week later the problem recurred. It took about three weeks this time (BTW, that *does* make it a lemon under CA lemon law). It turned out that a wiring harness over the back axle had either broken or not been done right in the first place, and the wiring could fall onto the axle, which wore off some of the insulation. When moving there was generally no problem, but if parked, and things happened just the wrong way, it shorted the CANBUS and caused the problem. Tesla shipped two of the engineers down to Santa Monica, and I gather told them not to come back until it was fixed.

I was of course very disheartened at the time. But (and here's the point of the story), (a) Tesla WILL take care of you, and (b) when it comes back you'll fall in love all over again.

So buck up. And if you're in San Diego contact me and I'll lend you the roadster, but I gather you're not, and it isn't an open invitation for anyone.
 
Good question, as I wondered the same. When I saw the 12-V battery it was smaller than what I'm used to seeing in ICE cars, but it did have + and - terminals. I would like to know if the battery could be attached to a standard battery and be "jump" started?

Yes, there are jumper terminals under the plastic nosecone (no need to find the actual battery). Use a credit card to gently work the nosecone off. Have service show you how to do this if necessary.
 
GGR, thank you for the offer. That is very gracious of you, and too much to ask for. I could not accept, even if were in San Diego. It just shows the "family" that is created by mutual ownership of the Model S.

I know I will fall in love with it again when it is returned to me. I also believe that Tesla will do everything possible to fix it, as soon as possible. I have no complaints with the Rockville (MD) Service Center so far. I just wish I had been able to enjoy the car a little more (and put on more than 100 miles) before this happened.
 
Ha - that reminds me of the old Navy days when kids would get sent to the fire room for a bucket of steam.

There was actually a technology used once with railroad locomotives with no boiler, which refilled a steam reservoir -- basically a bucket of steam -- from a fixed steam boiler at the side of the track.

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Regarding the original problem, I have a story which may be relevant. We recently had to *replace a circuitboard* on an ICE car -- it had been causing weird problems which two different repair shops failed to identify, before we went to the one really scientific repair shop in the area. If you've got something like a subtle circuitboard fault, it can be extremely hard to track down. The goal in this case should be to figure out which subsystem it is -- which takes a lot of time and experimentation, cutting out one subsystem at a time and reproducing the problem. At that point it may be a matter of simply replacing an entire circuitboard. When computer motherboards go flaky like that, people generally replace the entire machine.
 
> I would like to know if the battery could be attached to a standard battery and be "jump" started? [Velo1]

Just to clarify: yes, the 12 volt battery in the Teslas is simply a smallish 12 volt lead-acid battery sized similarly to the batteries found in ICE garden tractors. It can be jumpered by any ~equally sized (or larger) 12 volt battery. It should NOT be used to jumper a significantly larger 12 volt battery, ie an ICE car/truck battery!
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