Taking delivery soon... lots of questions!!

[Rails85]

Hi guys! I’m a little tense right now because I put down on a model 3 long range. It’s a 2018 dealer car with 120 miles, midnight sliver paint and 19in sport wheels upgrades. I jumped on the deal because I got $4k off. Before destination the price is $47.9k which I think is a great deal? Naturally I don’t have a lot figured out yet and have one week before the car arrives. Hoping to get some questions answered!

1. I live in a condo unit with my own garage but don’t have a lot of charging flexibility. The consensus is that I can use an existing wire from my heater to get 20a at 240v. Based on Tesla’s chart, that should get me 15 mi/hr, which would be plenty for an overnight charge. But is that what I would really get? What can I expect in real life out of 20a at 240v?

2. My garage gets cold during winter but doest drop below 30. Does the car have charging issues or charge slower in the cold? Should I be concerned?

3. Am I missing on anything by getting the 2018? I confirmed that this car would have the upgraded seats which is what I care about most. It’s also still considered new so I would be eligible for the $3,750. Anything else to be concerned about with going for a 2018?

3. Do you recommend doing the trade in with Tesla or somewhere else? I have a 2008 Acura TL with 150k miles and ripped seats but would still like to get as much out of it as possible.

My #1 concern is the charging piece but any advice in general to get ready would he really helpful!

 

[Troy]

1. Yes, Tesla's chart here is accurate.
2. See the temperature limits on page 122 here. Between -22° F (-30° C) and 140° F (60° C) is fine.
3. Model 3 production switched from Autopilot HW2.5 to HW3 in early April 2019.

• If this car has FSD or if you are planning to add FSD, buying a 2018 model means instead of getting the HW3 computer with the car, you will have to wait for the retrofit. I estimate they will do retrofits between Aug 2019- Apr 2020.
• If it doesn't have FSD and you are not planning to add FSD, buying a 2018 model means you will be stuck with the HW2.5 computer instead of getting the HW3 computer. HW2.5 works at 80% processing capacity. There isn't much room left to add more features. HW3 is at 5%. They haven't even started adding the new features yet. HW3 comes standard with all Teslas since early April regardless of how you configure. This could affect the resale value and it could affect what features your car will get in the future that are not related to FSD. For example, HW2 doesn't support dashcam and sentry mode but HW2.5 does. Something similar could happen with HW2.5 and HW3 in the future but for other features that we don't know yet. If you have not watched Tesla's Autonomy Day event on 22 Apr 2019, check out the video here so you can understand what the change is about. There is a 4-minute summary here, and a 15-minute version here. Maybe start with the 4-min summary. It's pretty good.

 

[eprosenx]

Hi guys! I’m a little tense right now because I put down on a model 3 long range. It’s a 2018 dealer car with 120 miles, midnight sliver paint and 19in sport wheels upgrades. I jumped on the deal because I got $4k off. Before destination the price is $47.9k which I think is a great deal? Naturally I don’t have a lot figured out yet and have one week before the car arrives. Hoping to get some questions answered!

1. I live in a condo unit with my own garage but don’t have a lot of charging flexibility. The consensus is that I can use an existing wire from my heater to get 20a at 240v. Based on Tesla’s chart, that should get me 15 mi/hr, which would be plenty for an overnight charge. But is that what I would really get? What can I expect in real life out of 20a at 240v?

2. My garage gets cold during winter but doest drop below 30. Does the car have charging issues or charge slower in the cold? Should I be concerned?

3. Am I missing on anything by getting the 2018? I confirmed that this car would have the upgraded seats which is what I care about most. It’s also still considered new so I would be eligible for the $3,750. Anything else to be concerned about with going for a 2018?

3. Do you recommend doing the trade in with Tesla or somewhere else? I have a 2008 Acura TL with 150k miles and ripped seats but would still like to get as much out of it as possible.

My #1 concern is the charging piece but any advice in general to get ready would he really helpful!

Do you own your condo?

Where is the breaker panel in relation to the garage?

Please post a bunch of pictures if you have electrical questions. Also, go read this primer: How Should I Charge My Tesla? – Article625.com

So my main concern right now for reusing that hater circuit. I think they are commonly shared with multiple units on one circuit. Your EV charging circuit should be dedicated.

Don’t worry, you will *love* the car!

 

[ewoodrick]

Let me boil everything that you need to know down.

Enjoy the car!

240V@20A will keep you happy.

 

[Rails85]

1. Yes, Tesla's chart here is accurate.
2. See the temperature limits on page 122 here. Between -22° F (-30° C) and 140° F (60° C) is fine.
3. Model 3 production switched from Autopilot HW2.5 to HW3 in early April 2019.

• If this car has FSD or if you are planning to add FSD, buying a 2018 model means instead of getting the HW3 computer with the car, you will have to wait for the retrofit. I estimate they will do retrofits between Aug 2019- Apr 2020.
• If it doesn't have FSD and you are not planning to add FSD, buying a 2018 model means you will be stuck with the HW2.5 computer instead of getting the HW3 computer. HW2.5 works at 80% processing capacity. There isn't much room left to add more features. HW3 is at 5%. They haven't even started adding the new features yet. HW3 comes standard with all Teslas since early April regardless of how you configure. This could affect the resale value and it could affect what features your car will get in the future that are not related to FSD. For example, HW2 doesn't support dashcam and sentry mode but HW2.5 does. Something similar could happen with HW2.5 and HW3 in the future but for other features that we don't know yet. If you have not watched Tesla's Autonomy Day event on 22 Apr 2019, check out the video here so you can understand what the change is about. There is a 4-minute summary here, and a 15-minute version here. Maybe start with the 4-min summary. It's pretty good.

Thanks for the info! I am not planning on getting the FSD so I see how this could be an issue. But then the decision is whether HW3 is worth saving $4k... that’s some to think about...

 

[Rails85]

Do you own your condo?

Where is the breaker panel in relation to the garage?

Please post a bunch of pictures if you have electrical questions. Also, go read this primer: How Should I Charge My Tesla? – Article625.com

So my main concern right now for reusing that hater circuit. I think they are commonly shared with multiple units on one circuit. Your EV charging circuit should be dedicated.

Don’t worry, you will *love* the car!

I do own my condo. The breaker is on the second floor in my laundry room. And I did confirm with that association that all wiring goes back to my unit and would be dedicated. The annoying this is that the heater actually has 30amp but one of the wires doesn’t work.

 

[Rails85]

Let me boil everything that you need to know down.

Enjoy the car!

240V@20A will keep you happy.

Thanks for the advice!!

 

[juliusa]

The consensus is that I can use an existing wire from my heater to get 20a at 240v.

It looks like the garage heater is 30a. If one wire is "not working" I don't see how you can get 20a. Have you had an electrician look at it?

 

[Rails85]

It looks like the garage heater is 30a. If one wire is "not working" I don't see how you can get 20a. Have you had an electrician look at it?

I’ve had 2 look so far. Get them all from the Tesla site. I’m probably not explaining something right, but when they tested they said they’re getting 30a but at 120v which would be converted to 20a and 240v? I’m probably not explaining right or confusing something. Quote from one here an the other is still writing it out.

 

[eprosenx]

View attachment 404081

I’ve had 2 look so far. Get them all from the Tesla site. I’m probably not explaining something right, but when they tested they said they’re getting 30a but at 120v which would be converted to 20a and 240v? I’m probably not explaining right or confusing something. Quote from one here an the other is still writing it out.

Lots of thoughts:

Looks like you have 10 gauge wire they are going to re-use. My guess is that it is only two conductors though. Sadly, Tesla does not make a 6-30 adapter and so you have no choice other than a 6-20. A 6-30 would make it considerably faster. You should email charging installation support and tell them Tesla *really* needs to make a 6-30 adapter for the UMC.

You could install a Wall Connector on that line and get a 24a charge rate vs 16a on the 6-20. (This assumes your load calculations would allow it)

Also, that electrician is taking advantage of you I suspect. If they are re using existing wire, that should not be an $850 job!!! Unless they are having to extend the wire a long way or something...

 

[eprosenx]

I am extremely frustrated that Tesla does not offer a 6-30 plug option for the UMC. It is a major miss for situations like this.

If you really wanted to use the full 30a circuit (24a charge rate) you could use a 6-30r receptacle with a third party EVSE like this:

24A Level 2 EVSE LCS-30 | ClipperCreek

Or just hard wire a Wall Connector...

 

[juliusa]

but when they tested they said they’re getting 30a but at 120v which would be converted to 20a and 240v?

That does not make sense. Perhaps the breaker is bad.

I suggest you ask them if they can put in #10 wire and a 6-30 outlet. That way you can charge 50% faster. Tesla does not make a 6-30 adapter for the gen2, but you can get it from a third party: NEMA 6-30 Adapter for Tesla Model S/X/3 Gen 2

I agree $850 is high for that, but there is a bunch of piping they are doing in the garage. I suggest getting another estimate - any electrician can do this type of work. They should be able to do the 6-30 for the same price since the additional cost of the larger wire is pretty small.

Wall connector set for 30amp circuit is also a good option.

 

[Rails85]

Lots of thoughts:

Looks like you have 10 gauge wire they are going to re-use. My guess is that it is only two conductors though. Sadly, Tesla does not make a 6-30 adapter and so you have no choice other than a 6-20. A 6-30 would make it considerably faster. You should email charging installation support and tell them Tesla *really* needs to make a 6-30 adapter for the UMC.

You could install a Wall Connector on that line and get a 24a charge rate vs 16a on the 6-20. (This assumes your load calculations would allow it)

Also, that electrician is taking advantage of you I suspect. If they are re using existing wire, that should not be an $850 job!!! Unless they are having to extend the wire a long way or something...

Yea I agree that 850 is unreasonable. I’m waiting for a second quote in the next few days. But I don’t see how a wall connector would allow me to get more amps? Are you saying the 6/20 limits it somehow? I’d be happy to complain but that won’t improve my situation today (sigh)

 

[eprosenx]

Yea I agree that 850 is unreasonable. I’m waiting for a second quote in the next few days. But I don’t see how a wall connector would allow me to get more amps? Are you saying the 6/20 limits it somehow? I’d be happy to complain but that won’t improve my situation today (sigh)

A 6/20 limits you to a 16 amp charging rate. The 10 gauge wire is good for a 30a circuit (24a charge rate). So as others pointed out, there are third party adapters for the UMC that would let you use a 6-30 receptacle. This would probably be a good solution for you barring Tesla making one available. Or better yet, get the Wall Connector and it can be set to allow 24a.

 

[MrMassTransit]

The wall connector allowing you more amps is based on the assumption that the electricians are recommending a 6-20 outlet because Tesla does not make a 6-30 adapter for the UMC. The wall connector will work with most configurations of wiring, so it can be set correctly for a 30 amp breaker (24 amp charge rate). However, if you purchased the adapter that tes-s linked to, you would be able to use it to connect the UMC to a 6-30 outlet, providing the same charge rate.

If there is another reason why 20 amps is recommended over 30, then a wall connector will not do anything to increase the charge rate.

How much do you drive daily? For most people, 240V/20 amps will work fine (16 amp charge rate). Unless you are coming home with the car mostly drained and turn around the next day and need to use most of the battery, you won't have a problem.

 

[solodogg]

I’m assuming that wall plate with a hole in it is where the wires are located in the garage? If so, spend the $500 on a wall connector, get a small section of 10/2 romex, splice it in behind that wall plate using wire nuts, and hard wire a wall connector set to 30a.

If you’re not comfortable running that wire from the box down to a wall connector, see if you can get an electrician to just extend the wire from that box. No way in the world that should cost more than a couple hundred bucks, materials would be less than $50. No breaker swap required unless it’s bad.

 

[eprosenx]

I’m assuming that wall plate with a hole in it is where the wires are located in the garage? If so, spend the $500 on a wall connector, get a small section of 10/2 romex, splice it in behind that wall plate using wire nuts, and hard wire a wall connector set to 30a.

If you’re not comfortable running that wire from the box down to a wall connector, see if you can get an electrician to just extend the wire from that box. No way in the world that should cost more than a couple hundred bucks, materials would be less than $50. No breaker swap required unless it’s bad.

Yeah, precisely.

I would probably do surface mount conduit over to a wall connector. They make adapters to come out the front of that box as a 90degree wall plate adapter. Then I would do some combo of flex conduit and fixed hard conduit probably to get to the wall connector. Normally I prefer metal EMT conduit but that might be difficult to properly ground in this scenario so I might just do pvc.

In the conduit you would use THHN wire.

 

[juliusa]

The wall connector allowing you more amps is based on the assumption that the electricians are recommending a 6-20 outlet because Tesla does not make a 6-30 adapter for the UMC.

Yes, that is my assumption. I can't think of any reason the #10 wire from the breaker box to the garage would support a 20a circuit and not a 30a circuit.

Perhaps this is the problem:

Maybe get a quote from a non-Tesla-certified electrician.

If so, spend the $500 on a wall connector, get a small section of 10/2 romex, splice it in behind that wall plate using wire nuts, and hard wire a wall connector set to 30a.

I don't think that would meet code in most jurisdications.

I would probably do surface mount conduit over to a wall connector.

I second that. It seems the electrician is proposing surface mount conduit to the outlet. They just forgot to check the box on their form.

 

[woodguyatl]

Maybe get a quote from a non-Tesla-certified electrician.

This a millions a times over.

 

[Rails85]

So I ended up going with this crazy Russian guy who did it for $400. Getting 30a at 240v!