lunitiks
Cool James & Black Teacher
Doesn't the BUC come with HSD-cabling included? Do they actually sell the camera just by itself?
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So if I wanted the latest and greatest camera on a pre facelift car, I need all 4 of those parts you listed? And is it plug and play?
If you are just replacing the old camera with the new one you only need the camera. (And it is plug and play.) He ordered the extra cables because he is planning to attach a camera to the back of his travel trailer. (You also need extra cables if you are adding a camera to the front of your car.)
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
I have the original front cam kit. I had it installed on my '13. BEST MOD EVER. Wonderful. I can't say enough good about Artsci and the crew that made it.
Hank, since you mentioned an issue with your camera, let me share some stuff. Bottom line. The new camera 1061269-00- 1 B does not/did not work with the front cam kit on my newer S when I used the long Tesla camera cable. (Short cable was okay, long cable, No.)
One thing that I have learned that we need to remember. The cables between the front cam switch and cameras have polarity. They can't be reversed. You must check these and make sure you are using them "in the right direction". This could be the cause of an installation and lead us to believe there's something wrong with our cables. (Just turn them around, the other direction.)
I'd been following this thread for a while, and I leaped out and bought the new camera too. (1061269-00- 1 B) Right after I got mine, 1061269-00- 1 C was released. But I had B. I liked the idea that the new cam had better low light resolution.
I took delivery on a new '17 90D. I removed the front cam kit from the '13 to install on the '17. However the wiring configurations are different. I have not been able to identify the reverse lead wire so when the car is put in reverse, the console view change to the rear and when in Drive/Park it returns to front cam view. This is frustrating, because we know it works and it worked every time on the '13.
So while trying to locate the correct reverse lead, I hooked up the rest of the front cam kit. I have all my cables marked. I have extra cables too. I always have spares of stuff. So, I hooked up the new cam (causes low light is better) and the rest of the kit. But using the BT remote switch from the kit to change between front and rear was intermittent. Front would not come up. Suspecting its the cable, I swapped to a short version of the cable. Bingo, that worked. Swapped back - nothing. Then on a hunch, I went back to the old first original $350 rear camera we bought in Aug 2014 for at the beginning of the kit deployment. This fixed the problem.
What works for me. On my '17 90D, I can use the front kit, but I must use the old $350 camera (sorry can't find the part number, but I guess its (1061269-00- 1 A) I first bought with the cables from both the Chinese vendor and from Tesla. I don't have it connected to the reverse lead, so I use the Bluetooth remote switch to switch between screens. I have missed the front cam view of the splitter and am very pleased to have it back although I have to rely on the BT switch to swap the view. Better than nothing.
I used a OBDII connector to tap 12V and ground power to the front cam switch. And I no reverse lead connection to the switch. Great having the front view again. I routed the cable for the front down through the body and to the lower grill. Its attached with silicone glue to the upper part of the lower grill opening. I am looking to make a bracket and bolt the bracket using the lower screws where that front license place mounting bracket was. (The one with the weird bolts.)
HankLloydRight
No Roads
Thanks for your detailed write-up.
I agree -- this is the BEST MOD EVER.. while the lighted applique is awesome, I can't imagine not having the front camera kit.
I didn't know the cables were directional. The problem I'm having is that they front camera feed is intermittent. It worked for a couple of months straight, and then it would just go black. Yesterday I was fiddling with the connector between the camera and the switch box (it's under the frunk trim pieces).. and as I wiggled the connector, the image would cut in and out. So one of those two cables is bad or had some sort of loose connection. I ordered some more contact cleaner (I ran out) to try and remove any corrosion in that connector. If that doesn't work, I need to replace one or both cables.
I've found trolling for parts cars an easy way to pick up the original camera module for a good price.
I agree -- this is the BEST MOD EVER.. while the lighted applique is awesome, I can't imagine not having the front camera kit.
I didn't know the cables were directional. The problem I'm having is that they front camera feed is intermittent. It worked for a couple of months straight, and then it would just go black. Yesterday I was fiddling with the connector between the camera and the switch box (it's under the frunk trim pieces).. and as I wiggled the connector, the image would cut in and out. So one of those two cables is bad or had some sort of loose connection. I ordered some more contact cleaner (I ran out) to try and remove any corrosion in that connector. If that doesn't work, I need to replace one or both cables.
I've found trolling for parts cars an easy way to pick up the original camera module for a good price.
HankLloydRight
No Roads
Oh, and does anyone know how to re-program the front cam kit remote control?
I don't think it's bluetooth, but plain old garage door type RF signal.
I have the remote, with a fresh battery, but it doesn't work.
I don't think it's bluetooth, but plain old garage door type RF signal.
I have the remote, with a fresh battery, but it doesn't work.
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
Me too. That's one of the two reasons I opted to buy the newer cheaper one. I agree, need to have a spare.
Just 15 minutes ago, I finished reinstalling my lighted applique on my new car. Had the wiring ready for about a month. And its the detailed work of getting the old goop off the car and put new stick'em tape on the applique so it stays.
I get to show it off tomorrow. Our formal Tesla Hawaii Club (teslahawaiiclub.com) is invited to a Tesla exclusive party at the new store opening in the heart of Waikiki at the remodeled International Market Place.
I have a spare remote Hank. PM me if you want it.
I've found that the cable connection to the front camera gets corroded and needs to be cleaned and covered in waterproof tape to prevent further corrosion. My front camera stopped working and that fixed it.
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
artsci, I can't find it. There were instructions for programming the remote to the car. How/where please.
Are you going to do another production run of the front cam switch?
Are you going to do another production run of the front cam switch?
Do you need any mounting brackets and is the C model the new role that protrudes out?
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
Speaking of re-programming the remote. I am trying to create the link to swap views between the front and rear camera using the Homelink button on the center console. I've succeed in the programming, and I see it sending the Homelink signal, but the screens don't swap. Any one with an idea?
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
UPDATE: !! I have been able to get my front cam kit to swap between front cam view and rear cam view when I put the car in reverse. It works !! The Universe is back on its track and all is well again.
I also have the Lighted Rear Applique installed on my '17. It works great. One of the leads going into the Bluetooth controller is a lead from the car in the liftgate, so when the car is put in reverse, the white/reverse lights turn on at the lighted applique. This is how I fixed my front cam kit. I wired from the reverse lead going into the Bluetooth controller in the liftgate to the front of the car to the front cam kit switch. This lead/wire connects to the reverse port on the green connector on the front cam kit switch.
If you do this, be advised of a hiccup. When I was testing my front cam kit to switch from front to rear when I put the car in reverse, the view did not swap. I think it was because the driver side door was still open. The car was giving me that error on the dash, that the driver side door was open. Just to shut up the car, I closed the door. When I tried the reverse again the view swapped. When I opened the door, the view would not swap. Just be aware, if you are testing remember this. It might save you some frustration.
Have the front cam kit on a newer Model S but don't have the lighted applique? You can still fix yours. Get the instructions for the lighted rear applique and read the instructions that guides you to connect the Bluetooth controller leads to the wire/location in the liftgate for the reverse light signal/power.
I'm sorry that this is slightly off-topic but I want to post it here because I know there are plenty of followers with some camera knowledge.
I have finally gotten around to my trailer camera project. I was able to connect female-female (65") and male-male (144") cables to the existing camera, pull the wires through the liftback access port, and connect them. Doing so makes the existing mounted camera continue to work properly, but gives me access to a long lead that I can use to plug into my camper wiring harness. It currently has a camera, female-female (53"), male-male (144"), and female-female (65") which terminates at the front. When I plug the harness from the X into this length, sadly the camera doesn't work. I'm assuming there's too much loss over the length.
Any ideas on workarounds? I could cut down my length by about 4', but there's no way to do it while maintaining necessary gender. That male cable that only comes in 12' is the part that's troubling me.
One thought was to remove a 144" + 53" section and mount the backup camera high on the roof. However, I really don't want to deal with roof penetrations and I'm not sure how well I'll be able to see with that wide-angle lens anyway.
Thanks in advance..
I have finally gotten around to my trailer camera project. I was able to connect female-female (65") and male-male (144") cables to the existing camera, pull the wires through the liftback access port, and connect them. Doing so makes the existing mounted camera continue to work properly, but gives me access to a long lead that I can use to plug into my camper wiring harness. It currently has a camera, female-female (53"), male-male (144"), and female-female (65") which terminates at the front. When I plug the harness from the X into this length, sadly the camera doesn't work. I'm assuming there's too much loss over the length.
Any ideas on workarounds? I could cut down my length by about 4', but there's no way to do it while maintaining necessary gender. That male cable that only comes in 12' is the part that's troubling me.
One thought was to remove a 144" + 53" section and mount the backup camera high on the roof. However, I really don't want to deal with roof penetrations and I'm not sure how well I'll be able to see with that wide-angle lens anyway.
Thanks in advance..
HankLloydRight
No Roads
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
Ohmman, I agree with Hank. I think you should try one of the old camera. Specifically, one from a '13-'14 S. Part Num 1006773-00-E.
I think you are experiencing a problem similar to what I found and described in my post #172. I don't know exactly how to say it, but I believe the signal is weaker with newer camera or cars - don't know which. When I used the old camera (that I purchased in ' Sep '14 for my front cam kit project) on my '17 it worked. The newer camera Part # 1061269-00-B did not work, except with the very short cable <24".
I suggest you either find someone with an older S, and ask them to let you try your new extra camera on their car to validate it works, then ask them to let you keep their camera. (Post your requirement here, and maybe someone would volunteer to take your newer camera and trade permanently with you if it works on their car. Just an idea.)
Or, you should watch for someone parting out a car and buy the old camera. I've heard that they are routinely selling for about $50 used/old car.
As it turns out, I have a 2014 S.
I'll see if I can't ruin both of my vehicles this evening.
Thanks for the feedback.
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
So, if i understand correctly about your situation, your newer trailer mounted camera is a newer camera? Its a B or an C?As it turns out, I have a 2014 S.
I'll see if I can't ruin both of my vehicles this evening.
If so, I think you are on to something. I'd connect the new one at your liftgate, and take the one in your liftgate and try it at the lonnnnnng cable to the trailer. Fortunately you can test this by just plugging in the new cam at the liftgate's cable and the longer cable to the liftgates camera without removing anything.
You understand correctly. The new camera is a C.
By "just plugging in the new cam at the liftgate's cable" you seem to be either glossing over the removal of all of the liftback trim, or I'm overthinking the project. Is there an easier way to get to that connector?
HankLloydRight
No Roads
If you have small hands you can reach in through the left pull down handle that pops out and reach the cable. You also have to be pretty good at disconnecting those Farkar connectors with one hand. But it can be done!
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
Oh no, certainly do not intend to gloss over removal. Can't gloss over anything on a Tesla. Everything take three times longer than one would think.
Yes, Hank is right again - as usual. Using a trim removal tool the first time, you can pop the "pull cup" (what Tesla calls it) out on one side and with skinny hands ready in and access the connector.
To reduce the quantity of feet of cable running between the camera, have you considered hijacking the cable running from the liftgate to the front of the car and using that as the feed from the center console to the switch? I am suggesting instead of running another long group of differing lengths to the front, that you mount the switch in the trunk or liftgate and connect both camera to the switch at the back of the car.
When we mounted the rear camera on the front of the car and the switch under that dash, the switch is "halfway" between the two camera. Enough though there are multiple (long and short) segments of cable used the lengths are about the same.
Mounting the switch at the back of the car, and using the already installed car's liftgate to front of the car's cable to feed the console from the switch might reduce the total lengh of cable on all three segments because you won't need to run a second very long cable to the front, to feed the trailer camera.
I realize I am probably confusing you. There's three non-video connections you need, 12V, ground and 12v power from the backup lights. You have all three of those in the trunk are (well, 12V power from backup is in liftgate) but that's as easy as getting all three same as at the front of the car.
I was having difficulty finding a 12V power for my switch at the front of the car (under the dash) I could not locate 12V power that was associated with the reverse shift of the car. I needed that to swap images on the screen when I put the car in reverse. I collaborated with artsci. I tapped into the 12v power going to the reverse lights of the car in the liftgate. (Actually, I tapped the power going to the lighted rear applique bluetooth controller for the reverse signal.) That worked. That's how I know/why I recommend you can depend on 12v, ground and 12V backup power at the rear of the car.
Am I making sense?
I want to also add, that I have been watching your thread and progress on adding the camera to the trailer. I think this is a fascinating project. Its a real education. I am always excited by something else we can do to a Tesla. I hope you are successful. And I believe you are going to be successful. I am glad to be a little part of it.
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