Vin_L
Member
I just installed mine. I used 6/2 wire from the sub panel and have it hooked to a 50A breaker. I have the wall charger set to 50A breaker and the vehicle is charging at 40A. All seems good
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250.119 Identification of Equipment Grounding Conductors.That is actually a really good question ... is it ok to do what the OP did (snip off the bare, and use the white as grounding), or is the proper thing to stick with the bare as the grounding conductor and just cap off the white inside the Wall Connector?
Wow…lively thread. Worth mentioning I am running through a 50A breaker. While it did spike to 45 mi/hr it settled to low 40s which is plenty fast.
@JimmySure Ugh, that's even worse. You have the wall connector setting for a 60A circuit, but have the whole thing physically, including the wire and breaker, set as a 50A circuit.Your low 40s MPH charge rate means that you are using the 48 amp setting. The HPWC is is a continuous load, so per the NEC, it needs a breaker rated for 48/80%=60A.
A 50 amp breaker allows a maximum of 50*80%=40A setting on the HPWC. 40A on the MY charges at ~35 MPH.
I'm glad you enjoyed it. Its less than half a percent overloaded as I stated, and the actual ambient temp is below the range they give for the 8% increased ampacity.I love SDs explanation of how it OK to overload a branch circuit.
This is not actually worse. The breaker is sized appropriately to protect the wire which is it's only job. If you plug something over-rated in down stream the breaker will trip if the wire is running over-current at a risk of damage. The likely result would be repeated tripping of the breaker, which would be your indication that something needs to change. When that doesn't happen, you are demonstrating the over-rated nature of all the manuals and charts that you have been reading.@JimmySure Ugh, that's even worse. You have the wall connector setting for a 60A circuit, but have the whole thing physically, including the wire and breaker, set as a 50A circuit.
Oy! sounds like overkill to me. 1" would be just big enough, and I could easily understand a size up(to 1 1/4") for ease of pull, but 2" and you are just showing off.2" PVC conduit
Total overkill! But it's all buried and the cost of 2" vs. 1.25" PVC wasn't much more– and pulling 3 #4 AWG and 4 #6 AWG plus 2 #12 AWG was effortless. The building inspector LOVED it. With an earlier EV charger install I did at my house I used exposed conduit, so I went with 3/4" PVC and the pull was a pain in the butt.Oy! sounds like overkill to me. 1" would be just big enough, and I could easily understand a size up(to 1 1/4") for ease of pull, but 2" and you are just showing off.
Yes, its fine. Could even swap to a 60 breaker and HPWC someday.50' EA THHN THWN 6 AWG GAUGE BLACK WHITE RED GREEN STRANDED COPPER WIRE inside flexible conduit via a 50 amp breaker to a NEMA 14-50 plug. Is that acceptable?
Did you go with a GFCI breaker?Got the Tesla wall charger installed at the cabin. Normally I would hire an electrician for anything beyond a light fixture install, but it is impossible to get any contractors to return a phone call let alone quote and complete a job in the Cascades right now. The good news is this is a pretty straightforward install for anyone who has a novice level of home wiring. I think it took me maybe 2 hours taking my time because...well...electricity A few tips that might help others:
1/ You only need 6/2 wire. Lots of threads say you need 6/3, but you don't. 6/2 will have the two hot leads you need plus a ground wire. I bought the 6/3 and ended up using the 3rd wire for ground and just trimming back the ground wire. Not only will 6/2 be cheaper (6/3 is about $5-$6 per foot right now), but a lot easier to work with as these are seriously stiff wires.
2/ Make sure you get the right breaker. I bought before looking and got the wrong one. Not tragic, but worth opening up your service panel and taking some pics prior.
I went from 5mi/hr on 110 to about 45 mi/hr. Plus the Tesla chargers look cool as hell View attachment 697321
The Tesla Wall Connector has built in GFCI circuitry and does not require a GFCI breaker. In fact, I think the instructions actually warn *against* using one if I remember correctly.Did you go with a GFCI breaker?
The wall connector will not operate with a GFCI breakerDid you go with a GFCI breaker?
When you add up the hardware cost of the 14-50 the wall connector is only about $200 more, if that, and since you are running 6 AWG THHN wire you can set it to 60 amps and charge at 48 amps instead of 32 amps (mobile connector limit).50' EA THHN THWN 6 AWG GAUGE BLACK WHITE RED GREEN STRANDED COPPER WIRE inside flexible conduit via a 50 amp breaker to a NEMA 14-50 plug. Is that acceptable?
GFCI protection is only required, per the 2020 revision of the National Electrical Code (NEC), for new EV charging circuits that terminate at a receptacle (an outlet). If the equipment (Tesla Wall Connector or other EVSE) is hard wired into the circuit it will not have a plug, then GFCI protection for the circuit is not required. The GFCI is there for the receptacle, protects the user when plugging or unplugging the equipment from the receptacle. The GFCI could be built into the receptacle as with 120V GFCI receptacles used in the home (kitchen, bathrooms, garage, etc.) but for NEMA 14-50 receptacles and other 240V receptacles the only available GFCI option is to install a GFCI circuit breaker.Did you go with a GFCI breaker
The Tesla Gen3 Wall Connector is designed to be hard wired into the circuit. Since there is no plug or receptacle additional GFCI protection is not required. I could not find anywhere in the Gen3 Wall Connector Installation Manual that the Wall Connector will not operate when installed on a circuit with a GFCI circuit breaker. The only reference to GFCI is for the integrated GFCI protection.The wall connector will not operate with a GFCI breaker
I think it’s even less then that when you consider the cost of receptacle and the neutral wire run. Also, you get to keep the mobile connector in your trunk in case it’s needed somewhere. Wall Connector is a good choice!When you add up the hardware cost of the 14-50 the wall connector is only about $200 more, if that, and since you are running 6 AWG THHN wire you can set it to 60 amps and charge at 48 amps instead of 32 amps (mobile connector limit).