NewbyMaybe
Newby1Kenowby
When you were driving at 0% the headlights and such were running down the 12v. Charging it or replacing it should help.
First alert: 12v not supported
First alert: 12v not supported
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Tons of error codes! Bms_f151 Bms_f071 Gtw_w018 Di_u014 Bms_w151 Gtw_w157
- Thread starter Tico
- Start date
Today just finished taking the drive unit out and noticed it had moist in the inverter. Dried it out and put it back on it. Got new codes and still won’t take charge.
Attachments
dark cloud
Active Member
I find it a little confusing that you can take out and disassemble your own drive unit, but you had mobile service replace your 12v? 
When tesla service wants to charge you 10k to replace your drive unit. You’ll learn quick how to do this stuff. And get confident that you can do it . After watching you tube videos for almost 2 month straight under Utah snowI find it a little confusing that you can take out and disassemble your own drive unit, but you had mobile service replace your 12v?
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Bms_f027 needs reset with t-daig or toolbox 3. Won’t work till that code is manually cleared from the bms. This thread has a video on it.
TESLA MODEL S stopped working... CAR MAY NOT RESTART
Maybe this will help someone. So after checking all off the HV components, there was nothing left but to dismount the battery. And there was a problem with the connector between battery and the car. Please see the images attached. Replaced the connector and cleaned contacts. Now the car has...
teslamotorsclub.com
Where'd the CV stub come from in the one pic? That's usually how I get them if say, a wheel had been ripped off on a salvage and ripped the axle apart... not out of a normal undamaged car.
Thank you for the information. I being watching videos about the charging port issue and apparently the computer turns off the charging port for safety after you remove the onboard charger or any mayor component. Assuming it got damaged . And the only way to clear is with the toolbox 3 access for $500 for one month or $3000 a year, a diagnostic cable you can buy on ebay for around $80 and a computerBms_f027 needs reset with t-daig or toolbox 3. Won’t work till that code is manually cleared from the bms. This thread has a video on it.
TESLA MODEL S stopped working... CAR MAY NOT RESTART
Maybe this will help someone. So after checking all off the HV components, there was nothing left but to dismount the battery. And there was a problem with the connector between battery and the car. Please see the images attached. Replaced the connector and cleaned contacts. Now the car has...
. Or pay tesla service about $400 and towing fees.Attachments
Both side came of the same way just loosen the bolts on the upper control arms and as they drop down just give a hard pull and they pop out.Where'd the CV stub come from in the one pic? That's usually how I get them if say, a wheel had been ripped off on a salvage and ripped the axle apart... not out of a normal undamaged car.
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Not sure that was the best choice. You didn’t mess the rubber boot/metal clip/rink that holds runner boot or bearing up in that? Should have removed the whole cv axel from the motor instead of that.
Hey Guys !!
I did start another thread here but looks like my situation with the errors is quite close to some of yours
teslamotorsclub.com
Any help advice would be appreciated....
I did start another thread here but looks like my situation with the errors is quite close to some of yours
Tesla won’t move-2018 Model S 100DL
Hey guys! I have been a big proponent of tesla and it’s technology and own a Model S and an MXP….however my experience today does make me second guess My car has 55k miles on it barely been supercharged for 5k miles if that and broke down today when I was still 130 miles away from home. It...
teslamotorsclub.com
Any help advice would be appreciated....
Well its mine turn now . Same Codes as thread starter . Comes an goes . Started with a warning to replace 12v battery couple months ago . Finally it would’t start , so bought an new 12v from Tesla . After that drove for a couple of days and all those fault Codes appeared and could not drive . Had Tesla diagnose it , and offcourse the fault was gone ,so they could’t pinpoint They recomended changing the DCDC converter . Old one (Dec 13 P85) is no longer in production ,so they wanted to modify to new version at an cost of $7200. They found out that my HV battery is fine atleast . After reading lots of comment all over i have now replaced the DCDC from an scrapyard with no luck . Replaced PTC heater and battery heater , No luck . AC Compressor next when i get hold of one . Grounding terminals looks fine and is tight . So im running out of options here . Any other advice or something i should try out . What im noticing is that there are some contactors going now an then Even with the car shut down . Also some sirculation pumps runs from time to time . It seem that the car is not shut down completely .
My car is an 13 Model S P85 with 210000 miles on it with original battery .
Regards
Terje Stensrud
Norway
My car is an 13 Model S P85 with 210000 miles on it with original battery .
Regards
Terje Stensrud
Norway
NewbyMaybe
Newby1Kenowby
Sometimes the ground post is corroded and intermittent. Try moving the connections to the bolt next to it, could help.
Another thread that might help out.
teslamotorsclub.com
What is the problem with error BMS_f036?
Just an update. I was able to determine it was my rear motor. I removed my hv rapid splitter to test what codes came up and got a rapid splitter error. (Didn’t snap a pic but was a 126 code if I remember) something about branch connection in rapid splitter not connected, went through all the hv...
teslamotorsclub.com
NewbyMaybe
Newby1Kenowby
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