Tons of error codes! Bms_f151 Bms_f071 Gtw_w018 Di_u014 Bms_w151 Gtw_w157

[HankLloydRight]

That's typical of a failing bulb.

And that's what I would also assume, but that thread specifically talks about the right headlight failing due to the broken ground.

 

[NewbyMaybe]

It was the bulb in my case.

 

[Tstens]

There's a fuse on top of 12v battery.
Checking all the fuses that protect electrical components with a multimeter could help.

Checked all those . Nothing wrong there . But will check all grounding to be shure .

 

[NewbyMaybe]

The drivers side ground stud in my model S decided to give it up yesterday while making a turn at an intersection. Not a fun experience!!! I immediately lost all power steering as well lost 95% of my braking power. For me to slow down the car I needed all my weight on the brake pedal, not fun. Immediately had about 8 or 10 different error messages on the screen as well as a whole bunch of icons light up. Also had no drivers side headlight. Luckily I was only 2 blocks from home so I circled the block and drove home. As soon as I got home and put it in park that was it, no more putting it into gear. The car was not drivable at this point.
Lucky for me I immediately suspected the drivers side ground stud because of my previous experience with the passenger side one breaking. I pulled out the frunk and to my surprise the drivers stud was intact and only minor corrosion. It was also very secure. I removed the nut and disconnected the ground wires. I cleaned them up and the ground stud actually looked pretty good. I hooked up the wires and put the nut back on but as soon as I started to tighten it the stud snapped off. It must have been on the brink of breaking due to corrosion even though it looked good.
I drilled it out and installed a new 1/4-20 stud and hooked everything back up and all is now good again.
Learned a lesson when looking at the old stud as looks can be deceiving.
If you end up fixing one of these ground studs go ahead and do the other one at the same time.
I hope this info will help others.

Update: there's a ground on both sides.

 

[Travieh5]

I sure hope so! That sounds great. I'm taking it to Milford, CT where I've had great experiences in the past with their service dept. Fingers crossed. I hope to get it towed there tomorrow.

Sorry, dyi would be like $500. SC will prob be $1500 or so I bet. Best of luck and let us know how is goes.

 

[HankLloydRight]

Sorry, dyi would be like $500. SC will prob be $1500 or so I bet. Best of luck and let us know how is goes.

No worries! I've watched the videos to remove the DC-DC converter and replace the heater, and I could probably do that, but I know I'd probably fark something up along the way requiring a SC visit anyway. So in this case I'm happy to let them do it for me and pay the price.

 

[HankLloydRight]

Bad news -- it appears both grounding points in the frunk are solid/sound. Nothing corroded or loose.

So I'm buttoning it all up to get towed to the SC tomorrow.

 

[NewbyMaybe]

Just to clarify: the posts can appear okay until cleaning and retourqing snaps them.

 

[HankLloydRight]

What’s the torque rating?

 

[NewbyMaybe]

Couldn't find a specific ground but 6nm is specified for the 12v battery.

 

[HankLloydRight]

Just to clarify: the posts can appear okay until cleaning and retourqing snaps them.

Bingo! I removed the driver's side nut and cleaned the three grounds and re-attached no problem at all.

So I figured I'd also do the pax side ground while I'm at it which came off no problem -- I cleaned the one ground lug and the screw and went to re-attached and it snapped off like butter. I don't have the tools to drill out the ground screw from the frame, but I levered the single ground lug against the remaining ground screw and powered up the car. The good news is the two GTW errors went away, but I still have the four BMS errors.

So it's back to getting the car towed to the SC tomorrow morning.

Driver's side ground point (before cleaning):

Pax side (before breakage):

 

[NewbyMaybe]

There's a suspension bolt on the passenger side next to the ground that can substitute.

 

[HankLloydRight]

Well I finally got my car towed to Milford SC yesterday (which was a challenge in itself, but we got there).

I figured the best case scenario was the common heater short or DC-DC converter (or both) causing these BMS errors, and that would be about a $2k repair.

Worst case scenario is that it's a problem with the battery, which I'd be on the hook for since (a) I'm out of the battery and ESA warranty periods, and (2), it's a 100kWh battery that @wk057 put in for me, so no warranty anyway!. I shudder to think what it would cost for another refurb 100kWh battery (plus transport), even from @wk057.

Anyway, Tesla texts me this morning that my car is done and ready for pickup. The problem? :

It was ONLY the RH ground stud that was corroded and I sheared off yesterday.

The total cost: $181.45.

And it's quite possible I got in and out of a Tesla Service Center without them updating my firmware!

I haven't picked up my car yet, so I can only hope this was the only issue.

Sometimes I am lucky, but never, ever this lucky!

 

[MP3Mike]

It was ONLY the RH ground stud that was corroded and I sheared off yesterday.

It seems like they probably should have done the LH ground stud as well, as it seems like they both go around the same time.

 

[HankLloydRight]

It seems like they probably should have done the LH ground stud as well, as it seems like they both go around the same time.

I agree, but I did just clean that one up and it bolted back on without a problem.

 

[Tstens]

I agree, but I did just clean that one up and it bolted back on without a problem.

Do you guys have similar studs on both sides ? On my 13P85 i have an steel bolt on driver side and aluminum stud and nut on passenger side . Both losened easy . Cleaned all terminal ends an put them back , tightened properly .Did not solve my problem . Will order an field rep to come to my place an do some more search . Have seen some videos of badly corroded grounding on the drive unit . Will check those next .

 

[HankLloydRight]

Got my car back, everything is perfect in the world again.

edit: Even after two weeks, I forgot how much I freaking LOVE driving this car. Next up, getting the N2itive camber arms installed. Woo hoo!

 

[NewbyMaybe]

Got my car back, everything is perfect in the world again.

edit: Even after two weeks, I forgot how much I freaking LOVE driving this car. Next up, getting the N2itive camber arms installed. Woo hoo!

Was there any corrosion visible? Has the car been exposed to a lot of road salt, big puddles?

 

[HankLloydRight]

Was there any corrosion visible? Has the car been exposed to a lot of road salt, big puddles?

I have lived very near the Long Island Sound for the last three years. Don't know if that's a contributing factor (probably was). While I do drive the car in the winter, never in wet, snow, slush or salty roads. Only dry. I have an SUV for winter snow driving.

Here's what they looked like before I cleaned the driver's side and snapped off the pax side bolts:

 

[Tstens]

Still faulty car here . Tried 3 different DCDC converters ,3 PTC heaters, 3 different batt heaters and 3 different AC compressors . Also opened the aft HVJB and disconnected DU . Still same F151 and W151 exept when i tried connecting up the last AC Compressor . Faults dissapeared But BMS_f036_SW_HVIL and w036 appeared . Tried all the usual reboot attempts But not willing to start up . Next wil be to lower HV batt and check for moisture/bad contakt . Also remove the speed sensor to se if i have internal leak of cooling water . The DU(no 4) has now 70k miles on it . So probably overdue to internal leakage . Tesla still insists on one of 3 components in the front . There was an change of fault Codes with replacing the last AC Compressor . But still won’t run .
The standard F151 and w151 came back when going back to the old AC comp . And the new F036/w036 dissapeared again . Any idea .
Regards
Terje