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Tons of error codes! Bms_f151 Bms_f071 Gtw_w018 Di_u014 Bms_w151 Gtw_w157
- Thread starter Tico
- Start date
HankLloydRight
No Roads
And now it's my turn. Last week my car was acting a little strange -- like the rear hatch would unlatch but not lift open, but it otherwise drove perfectly and I had no errors or warnings.
Then yesterday I go out to the car and the car is dead. The door handles started to extend, but then it totally died. I had to crawl into the back hatch to open the doors. Luckily I could still pop the frunk in this "dead" state.
No problem,I thought, I replace the 12v battery from Tesla, and it starts up and now I'm getting all these BMW codes.
When the car started up today after putting in the battery, the HV battery still read about 190 miles (I had just charged it to 80% a few days earlier.). But then after the errors it says "shutting down" and goes dark.
I pulled the fire loop and disconnected the 12v again, let it rest for 5 minutes and reconnected and all the same errors.
Where's this corroded or loose ground point people are talking about? I already have the full frunk disassembled.
@wk057 upgraded me to a 100kWh battery for me a few years ago. I'm trembling that this might be a problem with the actual battery. I'm reading some Redditt threads that talk about water ingress into the HV battery, but this battery (I believe) is from 2016 which should have better waterproofing. Fingers crossed it's something less costly to fix.
Then yesterday I go out to the car and the car is dead. The door handles started to extend, but then it totally died. I had to crawl into the back hatch to open the doors. Luckily I could still pop the frunk in this "dead" state.
No problem,I thought, I replace the 12v battery from Tesla, and it starts up and now I'm getting all these BMW codes.
When the car started up today after putting in the battery, the HV battery still read about 190 miles (I had just charged it to 80% a few days earlier.). But then after the errors it says "shutting down" and goes dark.
I pulled the fire loop and disconnected the 12v again, let it rest for 5 minutes and reconnected and all the same errors.
Where's this corroded or loose ground point people are talking about? I already have the full frunk disassembled.
@wk057 upgraded me to a 100kWh battery for me a few years ago. I'm trembling that this might be a problem with the actual battery. I'm reading some Redditt threads that talk about water ingress into the HV battery, but this battery (I believe) is from 2016 which should have better waterproofing. Fingers crossed it's something less costly to fix.
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HankLloydRight
No Roads
So my car is immovable -- I can not drive it to the SC.
Can Mobile service come and do a full BMS, DC/DC, and PTR heater diagnostic on the car so at least we can pinpoint the problem? Or do I need to have it towed there?
Can Mobile service come and do a full BMS, DC/DC, and PTR heater diagnostic on the car so at least we can pinpoint the problem? Or do I need to have it towed there?
I had mine towed there since mobile service didn’t see the point coming.
If the car doesn’t get into Netrual or into Toe mode then you will have to toe using a dolly setup( which is what I did)
Good luck!
HankLloydRight
No Roads
Thanks. I'm confident I can power up with the 12v battery to get it into tow mode. I'm pretty sure It won't shift into N.
Not in my case. Must of came loose? No other way to explain it. Disconnected it, cleaned up what I could and reinstalled and worked, easiest way to start other then changing out high voltage parts and hoping it works. Your service screen should show you if your hv contactors are even closing.
I believe when I got f_150 it was either the prv heater or ac.
Tesla error code BMS_w150 and BMS_f150
hi guys, I state that the car is currently working perfectly. However, I usually go to check the errors reported in the notification center although they are not active. I found 2 with the codes referred to in the subject of this post. I immediately opened the ticket with Tesla to ask for...
teslamotorsclub.com
HankLloydRight
No Roads
Yes I’ve been seeing that also in other threads and videos. Thanks. I sure hope you’re right as that appears to be a <$2000 repair at Tesla.
Depending on your mechanic skill. They can be easy to fix for under $500 for one if not both. I believe they make dummy plugs to test and make sure what component is keeping the hvil from working properly.
HankLloydRight
No Roads
I sure hope so! That sounds great. I'm taking it to Milford, CT where I've had great experiences in the past with their service dept. Fingers crossed. I hope to get it towed there tomorrow.
Tried to replace 12 v batt, PTC,Batt heater,DCDC converter,AC Compressor , and batt voltage sensor(12v) checked Several grounding points . Now its even Worse . Before ,i could charge up the 12v fully , Connect and fault vas gone du to normal voltage . Now i will get fault the second i Connect . Somebody mentioned E-fuse might be tripped . Anyone know where it is located ? Tried to search the net But couldn’t find any info .
. Otherwise it would have been broke by now . But its just an matter of time before i give up on this
HankLloydRight
No Roads
NewbyMaybe
Newby1Kenowby
On the passenger side frame under the frunk. It might look good but there's a bolt near it that can substitute to verify continuity.
NewbyMaybe
Newby1Kenowby
There's a fuse on top of 12v battery.
Checking all the fuses that protect electrical components with a multimeter could help.
HankLloydRight
No Roads
Quick question: What would have happened if I disconnected the 12v battery for about 5 minutes before I pulled the fireman's loop?
dark cloud
Active Member
NewbyMaybe
Newby1Kenowby
Simple rule: Don't put your tongue on any ORANGE connections or Super Chargers.
HankLloydRight
No Roads
Very interesting! I haven't had any suspension or coolant warnings, but my right headlight has been intermittently not working.
I'll check this out first thing tomorrow. Thanks!
NewbyMaybe
Newby1Kenowby
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