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Track camber: arms vs coilovers
- Thread starter destructure00
- Start date
We are levelling up our packaging game! We didn't plan ahead for the cyber arms though so now we need more boxes!Why are you getting fancy boxes?All mine came in generic brown boxes.
beastmode13
Member
I will gladly take the generic boxes over the fancy boxes if it means I'm in the initial batch. Plus, generic boxes do not raise the suspicion of my better half.
How I set up rear tow at home:
I use toe plates to measure total toe in/out.
I use a laser level to get a zero thrust angle. I have a 24” level that shoots a laser in one direction. I set it on double stacked 2x4’s and have a volunteer hold it up against the rear tire. I measure the distance from the laser beam to the lip of the front wheel. I then do the same on the opposite side. I make sure the laser level is face up one side and face down on the other and the base of the level is against the tire. I figure this should eliminate any chance the laser isn’t perfectly aligned with the base of the level.
This method is not as straightforward as the strings method and ends up with multiple adjustments sometimes. I used to use the strings but I kept bumping something and would have to constantly adjust the strings.
I use toe plates to measure total toe in/out.
I use a laser level to get a zero thrust angle. I have a 24” level that shoots a laser in one direction. I set it on double stacked 2x4’s and have a volunteer hold it up against the rear tire. I measure the distance from the laser beam to the lip of the front wheel. I then do the same on the opposite side. I make sure the laser level is face up one side and face down on the other and the base of the level is against the tire. I figure this should eliminate any chance the laser isn’t perfectly aligned with the base of the level.
This method is not as straightforward as the strings method and ends up with multiple adjustments sometimes. I used to use the strings but I kept bumping something and would have to constantly adjust the strings.
We should have an option at checkout to use vague shipping information and plain boxes for this reasonI will gladly take the generic boxes over the fancy boxes if it means I'm in the initial batch. Plus, generic boxes do not raise the suspicion of my better half.
That's my experience as well. Lowered the front 1.5 inches, it's still just -1 degree, which is fine for the street but not enough for tracking. I suspect that the biggest benefits will come from a combination of coil overs, FUCA to get camber to at least -2.5, and MPP's neat little front bushing replacement to delimit the deterioration of front suspension geometry under extreme cornering loads. All those plus roll bars and race tires? I suspect that's how you can get close to or even beat the 1:54 on Buttonwillow 13. Although that time looks scary good.
To the OP, on my last car I spent my money on coilovers and not arms. While the car was easier to drive and was slightly quicker, but the lap times improvement from the arms were undeniable. I am not sure if I will mod my car, but if I do it, I will skip the coilover and just get the front and rear control arm, stock suspension.
I should add if I only get the camber arms and keep it stock height, I shouldn't need the toe arms right?
I should add if I only get the camber arms and keep it stock height, I shouldn't need the toe arms right?
Depends on what you want to do for rear camber. If you want different settings for track and street I'd recommend the toe arms, then you can mark track and street positions and swap between them fairly easily. If you just want to increase camber and leave it, the stock eccentrics should have enough adjustment to get the toe set correctly. They just aren't consistent enough to ba able to mark positions and go back and forth.
Yes. When you add negative camber (as you would for the track) toe goes out, and vice versa.
Having some fun today. Hopefully will get the rear alignment all set this afternoon and do front arms tomorrow.
I had the alignment down to 1/32" toe in each side (.16deg total) measured from brake rotor to string. Then decided to play with camber. Set it back and went to check again but the car shifted a bit on the blocks, so now I gotta restring the car to see if it's still good.
@MountainPass my 6 year old daughter sends her thanks for the candy in the toe arm box
I had the alignment down to 1/32" toe in each side (.16deg total) measured from brake rotor to string. Then decided to play with camber. Set it back and went to check again but the car shifted a bit on the blocks, so now I gotta restring the car to see if it's still good.
@MountainPass my 6 year old daughter sends her thanks for the candy in the toe arm box
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Alright, rear is buttoned up.
Ended up at -0.9 deg camber L and R.
LR is .08 deg toe in
RR is .12 deg toe in
Total toe .2 deg
Close enough! Fronts tomorrow. Not worrying much about track alignment yet, will figure that out when prepping for the next track day.
Ended up at -0.9 deg camber L and R.
LR is .08 deg toe in
RR is .12 deg toe in
Total toe .2 deg
Close enough! Fronts tomorrow. Not worrying much about track alignment yet, will figure that out when prepping for the next track day.
Having some fun today. Hopefully will get the rear alignment all set this afternoon and do front arms tomorrow.
I had the alignment down to 1/32" toe in each side (.16deg total) measured from brake rotor to string. Then decided to play with camber. Set it back and went to check again but the car shifted a bit on the blocks, so now I gotta restring the car to see if it's still good.
@MountainPass my 6 year old daughter sends her thanks for the candy in the toe arm box
View attachment 519183 View attachment 519184
More eye candy / suspension Bling? I can't see you without these for long!
@destructure00,
Man.....gotta say @MountainPass ’ stuff if just ART!!! Love those FUCAs. Love looking at their parts installed. Mechanical Wizardry!
Ski
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