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Track camber: arms vs coilovers
- Thread starter destructure00
- Start date
MasterC17
Active Member
I did not notice a difference. I am sure there is some difference, but it would be negligible at most. On stock 18" Michelin tires I can still get ~250wh/mi at 75mph (warm weather).
Good thing I wasn't counting on these for tomorrow....I don't have anything that fits to get this nut off. What are you guys using?
beastmode13
Member
The issue is clearance...there's not enough room to get a socket wrench on the nut. I have a 21mm socket, just no room.
I think I just need to get a 21mm box end wrench for the nut side. I can get the bolt just fine, bit need to hold the nut still and don't have anything for it currently.
I think I just need to get a 21mm box end wrench for the nut side. I can get the bolt just fine, bit need to hold the nut still and don't have anything for it currently.
Last edited:
MasterC17
Active Member
Yeah, you are going to need a 21mm box end. It's a bit of an odd design on Tesla's part.
Side note... Any of you going to TC8? I registered this morning, would be great to meet a few of you.
Who knew, having the right tools makes all the difference 
beastmode13
Member
Getting steep to do these events. Still not quite sure what you get for the extra $46.
I think BRP has raised it's price. SV regular is now $199 compare to $189 before. For TC you get CP package which usually cost $75 so it's not a bad deal. However, for frequent attendants of TC, the photos may not mean much unless you're putting on different wheels or aero parts each time =)
Interesting. Great pics from CP, but there's only so much I can do with the same photos of my car. I'll make it out to one soon. Would like to test out the front camber arms there.
Those of you who adjust camber for the track:
Front: do you adjust camber and then adjust toe based on...what? Guide from MPP for tie rod turns? Something else?
Rear: do you have separate track and street settings, or just run it the same all the time? If adding negative camber just for track, do you adjust rear toe as well?
I'm trying to figure out how to have the car aligned once FUCAs are installed, then how to adjust between track and street settings. I've read about moving the upper front mounts around before alignment, and interested to see what you guys are using as targets. Factory specs for street? Something else?
Front: do you adjust camber and then adjust toe based on...what? Guide from MPP for tie rod turns? Something else?
Rear: do you have separate track and street settings, or just run it the same all the time? If adding negative camber just for track, do you adjust rear toe as well?
I'm trying to figure out how to have the car aligned once FUCAs are installed, then how to adjust between track and street settings. I've read about moving the upper front mounts around before alignment, and interested to see what you guys are using as targets. Factory specs for street? Something else?
MasterC17
Active Member
My track alignment targets are:
Front
Camber: -3
Toe: 0
Rear
Camber: -2.5
Toe: .25
I would have an alignment done and drive around on the street with it and see how it feels to you. Having to switch back and forth will become a real pain real fast (not that you can't do it). If you are looking for a more hybrid alignment I would try this:
Front
Camber: -2.25
Toe: -.0.05
Rear
Camber: -1.75
Toe: .2
This is what I use
Front:
Street : 8mm shim.
Camber: -1.7
Toe: 0
Track: no shim
Camber: -3.2
Toe: 0
To get to 0 toe, I need to turn the tie rod 5/6 turn or 300 degree towards toe in, I reverse it when I go back to 8mm shim.
When you install the 4 bolts for the fuca carrier, make sure you push the bolts as far in toward the center line of the car as possible to give you additional camber. This also helps to make sure that both sides have roughly the same camber amount with the same shim.
I foresee the title of "Tesla Guru" in your future.
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