Two down. Lunch/beer break soon then alignment time.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Track camber: arms vs coilovers
- Thread starter destructure00
- Start date
beastmode13
Member
I see you are running the full stack.
Gotta start somewhere! Lmao. I wanted to get parts installed first then start tweaking alignment.
Just checked front and have camber 0.9 FL 1.0 FR, .08 deg total toe. Instead of dialing in stockish alignment this afternoon maybe I'll start playing a little bit. Just because @beastmode13 is giving me crap
I'm going to take the advice given here and set and forget the rear. Will adjust front between track and street with shims and tie rod turns.
How do these look for targets? It's a combination of specs that a few of you have posted earlier in this thread.
Rear - full time:
-2.2 camber
.16 toe in total
Front - street w/ 8mm shim:
-2.2 camber
.08 toe in total
Front - track w/ no shim:
-3.5 camber
0 toe
Not sure how exact I'll be able to get the front camber, will just have to see where I land with the shims.
How do these look for targets? It's a combination of specs that a few of you have posted earlier in this thread.
Rear - full time:
-2.2 camber
.16 toe in total
Front - street w/ 8mm shim:
-2.2 camber
.08 toe in total
Front - track w/ no shim:
-3.5 camber
0 toe
Not sure how exact I'll be able to get the front camber, will just have to see where I land with the shims.
beastmode13
Member
Gotta start somewhere! Lmao. I wanted to get parts installed first then start tweaking alignment.
Just checked front and have camber 0.9 FL 1.0 FR, .08 deg total toe. Instead of dialing in stockish alignment this afternoon maybe I'll start playing a little bit. Just because @beastmode13 is giving me crap
LMAO. I wish I have that type of influence on my teenagers.
beastmode13
Member
I read somewhere -2 camber for rear is where it’s at. Of course I like to be different so I run -1.8 camber at rear. -1.8 works well for me running RE71 @35psi hot, it’s enough to keep it from rolling pass the triangle on the side wall. Street front I use 6mm shim so I get full thread engagement with the short bolt with the washer installed. At the track I love dangerously with @MountainPass #noshimparty and shorten the toe adjuster by 4/6 of a turn.
Also, you want to research on the tire, some work well with lots of camber, while others don’t.
For toe, I’ve zero at rear always. Street front with slight toe-in, our car is mostly rear drive according to my MoTec screen. So the front end up being close zero on highway speed.
Thanks @beastmode13
Interestingly I didn't get any washers to go with the ball joint bolts on the arms. I read about them in the instructions but only washers in my kit were the ones for the fender liner bolt. Any harm in running without them?
Interestingly I didn't get any washers to go with the ball joint bolts on the arms. I read about them in the instructions but only washers in my kit were the ones for the fender liner bolt. Any harm in running without them?
Current MPP instructions don't have washers in the parts list. I wonder if they decided they weren't necessary sometime recentl
beastmode13
Member
There you go. Washer isn’t required. MPP is doing mid cycle HW updates a la the Tesla way.
Now that I have the goodies installed I find myself wanting to stand out a bit with a slightly lower stance. @MountainPass did you put crack in the blue anodizing color? Now I need a set of your coilovers FML....er....wallet.
Patience...I tell myself...
Patience...I tell myself...
Last edited:
One question is whether there is differential camber change on compression from front to rear. I've heard that the front barely changes at all as you go towards full compression which is part of why people are recommending so much negative camber on the front if you're tracking the car. Does anybody have any reasonably definitive information on this?
beastmode13
Member
So I currently have 6mm shims installed and only seeing 1.6/1.7 camber in front. Per MPP guide I should be seeing around 2.2. Seems off by quite a bit...is this within the normal variance range?
beastmode13
Member
@destructure00
Yes, it’s normal not getting 2.2 with 6mm shim. I’m getting less than 1.8 with 6mm shim. And that’s with aluminum mounting plate pushed all the way toward the center of the car.
Yes, it’s normal not getting 2.2 with 6mm shim. I’m getting less than 1.8 with 6mm shim. And that’s with aluminum mounting plate pushed all the way toward the center of the car.
I suspect that those numbers assume you have a coilover kit set to their recommended ride height. If you have stock ride height on the other hand that presumably accounts for the difference in negative camber. At least that's my best guess.
Well I'm officially admitting defeat on the alignment. Front camber is what it is, 1.6 and 1.7 is what I measured with the 6mm shim. Rears I got to 1.9 and 2.0. Would have tried to get it exact but I get slightly different readings each time I measured the same wheel so figured that was pointless.
Toe is what got me...I set string up on both sides of the car measuring from the wheel face right next to the center hole. Got it dialed in to zero on both rears and <1/32" toe in on the fronts (somewhere less than .08 degrees total). Sounds good right?
Well it turns out that even though the car is advertised with same track width front and rear, the front is somewhere around 1" wider. So me setting dead on the strings actually made it severely toed out.
Tried to set up the strings in a perfect square outside the car to do it again, but somehow ended up with the front narrower than the rear so once I got it dialed in again, I ended up 1/8" toe in front and rear, or 0.3 degrees. I've spent as much time on this as I'm willing to spend, so it's going to an alignment shops this week. Ugh.
Toe is what got me...I set string up on both sides of the car measuring from the wheel face right next to the center hole. Got it dialed in to zero on both rears and <1/32" toe in on the fronts (somewhere less than .08 degrees total). Sounds good right?
Well it turns out that even though the car is advertised with same track width front and rear, the front is somewhere around 1" wider. So me setting dead on the strings actually made it severely toed out.
Tried to set up the strings in a perfect square outside the car to do it again, but somehow ended up with the front narrower than the rear so once I got it dialed in again, I ended up 1/8" toe in front and rear, or 0.3 degrees. I've spent as much time on this as I'm willing to spend, so it's going to an alignment shops this week. Ugh.
Last edited:
beastmode13
Member
I seem to recall that my dropping the suspension did result in some modest increase in negative camber just not very much. I'll have to see if I can dig out the old alignment sheets pre coil over. But if that's true that's rather strange suspension geometry. Or at least pretty atypical.
