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Tsportline unable to fill 18" rim deliveries by end of year

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I really want the 18" TS turbines, but I don't want ANY warranty issues... has anyone had any concerns w/Tesla and non-OEM wheels? I'm sticking w/18s due to pot holes and tire options.

thanks. Also the 5mm difference in offset from OEM - any issues?
 
I really want the 18" TS turbines, but I don't want ANY warranty issues... has anyone had any concerns w/Tesla and non-OEM wheels?
Wheels are completely harmless. In fact, wheels like the TS turbines are actually lighter than most OEM wheels, and stronger (forged), for which you will benefit from improved range as well. The only key is to stay within the same recommended sizes for wheels and tires.

Nothing to be afraid of. The largest aftermarket for vehicles is rims and tires.
 
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I really want the 18" TS turbines, but I don't want ANY warranty issues... has anyone had any concerns w/Tesla and non-OEM wheels? I'm sticking w/18s due to pot holes and tire options.

thanks. Also the 5mm difference in offset from OEM - any issues?

I had no warranty issues with TST 19” wheels on my 3 when it went into the service center for a rear motor oil pump problem. The techs even adjusted my tire pressures when my car was being fixed.
 
After putting these on, has anyone tried to pull them off? I had a heck of a time.

Can you elaborate? Do they fit with a hubcentric plastic spacer that is adhering to the hub? If the wheels are completely hub-centric and machined to fit the hub there really shouldn't be any difficulty in removing them unless you've had a small amount of bonding between the two surfaces due to contaminants.
 
Can you elaborate? Do they fit with a hubcentric plastic spacer that is adhering to the hub? If the wheels are completely hub-centric and machined to fit the hub there really shouldn't be any difficulty in removing them unless you've had a small amount of bonding between the two surfaces due to contaminants.

They are hub centric and designed to fit just like factory wheels and so I'm not using a spacer.

When I first put them on I was getting significant vibration and a metal clanking noise which is why I took them off and put them back on. As a matter of fact I still have one wheel doing that over certain bumps...(torqued to 129 ft-lbs and everything) :mad:

A "small amount of bonding" would be an understatement, I had to kick, pry, pull, rotate and repeat to finally get them to come off. One of these days I need to invest in a rubber mallet.
 
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They are hub centric and designed to fit just like factory wheels and so I'm not using a spacer.

When I first put them on I was getting significant vibration and a metal clanking noise which is why I took them off and put them back on. As a matter of fact I still have one wheel doing that over certain bumps...(torqued to 129 ft-lbs and everything) :mad:

A "small amount of bonding" would be an understatement, I had to kick, pry, pull, rotate and repeat to finally get them to come off. One of these days I need to invest in a rubber mallet.

I've swapped wheels on many cars and never observed that behavior. Maybe a light application of a generic lubricant on the surface of the hub would help.

I'd be more concerned about the clunking noise you describe, that's not normal, and might indicate that you've got a bolt cross threaded and the wheel and hub are not mated correctly.

And yes, rubber mallets cost like $10. $30 for a good one.
 
I'd be more concerned about the clunking noise you describe, that's not normal, and might indicate that you've got a bolt cross threaded and the wheel and hub are not mated correctly.
Definitely concerned. No bolts cross threaded (done by hand to be sure). I believe the tolerances might be so tight on the tsportline wheels that it's not going all the way on, even with the lug nuts torqued to 129 ft-lbs. I wonder if it's temperature related...

Once thing I did find, is that I can rotate the wheel slightly causing that sound people attribute to gear lashing when it could be the sound of the studs moving in the holes (which I can clearly see). When properly secured it won't rotate like that or make the sound.
 
Definitely concerned. No bolts cross threaded (done by hand to be sure). I believe the tolerances might be so tight on the tsportline wheels that it's not going all the way on, even with the lug nuts torqued to 129 ft-lbs. I wonder if it's temperature related...

Once thing I did find, is that I can rotate the wheel slightly causing that sound people attribute to gear lashing when it could be the sound of the studs moving in the holes (which I can clearly see). When properly secured it won't rotate like that or make the sound.

I am highly skeptical that the cast wheels from TSportline have higher tolerances than the hubs Tesla uses... and if the hub was out of spec you'd have problems with the factory wheels.

I'm still looking for hub-centric flow forged 19" turbine wheels for my car I can put on this spring. TSportline appears to be selling pretty low end stuff from what I can see and charging through the nose for it.
 
Was everything indoors so near room temp or were the rims at outdoor temps when you were putting them on (near freezing there I guess).
Both were near freezing. My garage isn't finished.

I am highly skeptical that the cast wheels from TSportline have higher tolerances than the hubs Tesla uses... and if the hub was out of spec you'd have problems with the factory wheels.

Factory wheels work great, no seizing at all very easy to get on and take them off.

I guess there's an entire thread about the rattling issues too, still applies to the 18s.
T Sportline 19s on a P3D+ rattling like crazy
 
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Both were near freezing. My garage isn't finished.



Factory wheels work great, no seizing at all very easy to get on and take them off.

I guess there's an entire thread about the rattling issues too, still applies to the 18s.
T Sportline 19s on a P3D+ rattling like crazy

I think I found the problem... After two months of waiting, it turns out they sent the wrong ones. :(

LYzKRs9.jpg
 
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I just received 1 out of 4 wheels ordered, with the same part# - "9231K57 (XC1)". Do you mean this wheel was the wrong wheel for P3D+ ?

Yes, I don't know if the part numbers are right or wrong but from the other thread the milled part is missing.

That picture looks like it has the lip milled into it for a P3D+ so it should work?

It's a sloped edge, check out this post T Sportline 19s on a P3D+ rattling like crazy
I thought that too, but mine looks like the before not the after.

I reached out to @Tsportline and am waiting to hear back.
 
Yes, I don't know if the part numbers are right or wrong but from the other thread the milled part is missing.



It's a sloped edge, check out this post T Sportline 19s on a P3D+ rattling like crazy
I thought that too, but mine looks like the before not the after.

I reached out to @Tsportline and am waiting to hear back.

Ah, I see what you mean. Yea that lip isn't milled out enough (or wasn't at all)