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I cut the connectors off the Tesla Offer harness and put together my own kit. The harness I made enables the 4 front tweeters and 2 rear dash speakers, powered by an Alpine KTP-445u. The same harness also sends signal to a Rockford Fosgate R2-250X1 to power an OEM 8” subwoofer. Everything is fully plug and play, no wire tapping and completely removable. PM me if you’re interested in purchasing. I can install if you’re located in the SF Bay Area.
I cut the connectors off the Tesla Offer harness and put together my own kit. The harness I made enables the 4 front tweeters and 2 rear dash speakers, powered by an Alpine KTP-445u. The same harness also sends signal to a Rockford Fosgate R2-250X1 to power an OEM 8” subwoofer. Everything is fully plug and play, no wire tapping and completely removable. PM me if you’re interested in purchasing. I can install if you’re located in the SF Bay Area.
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Nice job. Clean install. I plan to do the same. Question: are those labels yours or from TO?
Edit: on closer inspection the labels look like your own
 
I purchased the Hanshow DIY (harness and crossovers only) kit. Figured it was a good first step and if I want do more later, I still can. This way I'll at least have wires to all of the speakers in the car.

Also, I see some discussions about passive crossovers being less efficient. I think it's key to understand that filtering out the frequencies avoids the power being used to power the speaker at those frequencies, so reduces load on the amp, at least in the case of low frequencies. The power is not being burned as heat. Yes, active is better, but passive is a tried and true method that has worked perfectly in speaker cabinets since speakers started existing. A good passive crossover setup will put the power to the speakers that use it best compared to wasting it on speakers that don't. It's not as efficient as active, but WAY simpler and realistic when using a single power amp for multiple speakers.

I'm worried about my situation for the rear shelf though. Whenever someone has an answer about the rear speakers on a newer (July 2020) car, I'd love to know. I know they are 3.5" speakers back there. Can you even put them into a newer car?

I'm looking forward to hearing how it sounds in my car. I'll probably make a separate thread about it for visibility.
 
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I purchased the Hanshow DIY (harness and crossovers only) kit. Figured it was a good first step and if I want do more later, I still can. This way I'll at least have wires to all of the speakers in the car.

Also, I see some discussions about passive crossovers being less efficient. I think it's key to understand that filtering out the frequencies avoids the power being used to power the speaker at those frequencies, so reduces load on the amp, at least in the case of low frequencies. The power is not being burned as heat. Yes, active is better, but passive is a tried and true method that has worked perfectly in speaker cabinets since speakers started existing. A good passive crossover setup will put the power to the speakers that use it best compared to wasting it on speakers that don't. It's not as efficient as active, but WAY simpler and realistic when using a single power amp for multiple speakers.

I'm worried about my situation for the rear shelf though. Whenever someone has an answer about the rear speakers on a newer (July 2020) car, I'd love to know. I know they are 3.5" speakers back there. Can you even put them into a newer car?

I'm looking forward to hearing how it sounds in my car. I'll probably make a separate thread about it for visibility.

I think you will be pleased how it sounds I just installed in my 2019 and I was very happy with the improvement one thing I was not expecting, but probably should of, was that the music was louder even though the volume was lower. Hopefully missing those back two speakers won’t diminish the improvement too much.
 
I managed to hook everything up but no sound from the rear shelf. I have a feeling its not getting power via the 12v wire. I am going to recheck tomorrow when its daylight again. Just to be sure, I dont need the 12v 8 gauge kit to the Penthouse because my amp doesn't require it?
I am confused by that part because the amp has two 12v sources. I connected the "remote in" and not the yellow 12v wire. I was under the assumption thats all I needed but I am beginning to think I need to connect my Yellow 12v wire to the penthouse?
I am getting ready to do the work to connect the rear speakers and am not clear about the 12v connection. It seems that you did what I would like to do. Was your final install done with the yellow 12v wire (and the ground wire) connected to the penthouse under the back seat? Do you have a picture?

What I thought I would be able to do is tap into the speaker wires in the B pillars and all other work would be in the rear - no running wire from the front. Can someone tell me if I overlooking something?

Edit: Because this thread has moved on to the new wiring harnesses that are available I want to clarify that I am following the earlier method of installing an Alpine KTP-445U to connect the rear speakers that evolved from Wampa's original install description.
 
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I connected the rear shelf speakers using the Alpine KTP-445U. Here is my description.

Before you start buying equipment, use a flashlight and look through the rear deck grill to confirm that there are speakers installed. Or check "software -> Additional vehicle information" - it should say "Audio system: Premium speakers, no external amplifier".

Supplies:
⦁ Alpine KTP-445U 4-Channel Amp
⦁ 18 AWG speaker wire - approx. 15 ft. (I had some 16 gauge so that is what I used.)
⦁ 18 AWG T-taps and male connectors - 8 pairs (Note: I've seen pictures of people using the red 18 AWG T-taps and others using the blue 16 AWG. The speaker wires in the amp's output harness are 18 AWG and it looks like the wires in the car are 18 although I couldn't find printing on them.)
⦁ gray twist on wire connectors - 4
⦁ 5/16" stud 16 AWG ring terminals - 2 (the power wire is 16 AWG not 18)
⦁ For the connectors I recommend Wire Terminals and Connectors - WiringProducts. Ltd.
⦁ 10mm wrench or socket
⦁ 14mm socket
⦁ wire cutter, wire stripper, crimping tool, pliers
⦁ trim removal tools
⦁ head lamp and flashlight
⦁ short stool - very helpful to sit on when working on the wires inside the B-pillar
⦁ I used some wood blocks to hold the B-pillar open while I was working. It was a tight area to work in.

Consider unplugging the charging cable so it isn't in your way when you are walking around. I am not going to describe removing the back seat and panels since that is covered elsewhere. My notes start after you have access to the wires.

Here is a good thorough video on using connectors and crimping tools:

Here is a video on using T-taps:

This Crutchfield video gives you an overview of the amp's wires starting at 2:16
At 3:21 begins an explanation that the input blue wire isn't needed with a factory audio system.

1. Decide which side of your speaker wire will be positive and make sure it is marked clearly so you can be consistent.
2. Open all 4 windows, all 4 doors and the frunk. You won't be able to open them with the power off.
3. Power off the car by going to "Safety & Security" and selecting "POWER OFF".
4. Disconnect the negative side of the 12v battery in the frunk (10mm wrench or socket. See link in step 5 for pictures) - don't close the frunk!
5. Open the contactor in the penthouse. Here is a good description: Tesla Model 3 Hard Reset | Mountain Pass Performance
6. From the back side of the left B pillar push the end of your speaker wire through to the front. In the back unspool wire to where you will place the amp giving yourself some slack and then cut the wire. Do this again on the right side.
7. At the front of the left B-pillar T-tap the red + wire and connect it to the + side of your wire, T-tap the black - wire and connect it to the - side of your wire.
8. At the front of the right B-pillar T-tap the blue + wire and connect it to the + side of your wire. T-tap the green - wire and connect it to the - side of your wire.
9. In the back run the left side speaker wire to the right side. I ran mine under the edge of the carpet under the back seat.
10. Cut the RCA connectors off of the Alpine "REAR IN" wires. (green and purple. For reference when stripping - these are 20 AWG.)
11. Use the gray twist on connectors to connect your left side + wire to the green + Alpine input wire and your left side - wire to the green/black - Alpine input wire.
12. Use the gray twist on connectors to connect your right side + wire to the violet + Alpine input wire and your right side - wire to the violet/black - Alpine input wire.
13. At the speaker connector behind the right bolster near the top, T-tap the purple + wire and connect it to the green + Alpine output wire and T-tap the white - wire and connect it to the green/black - Alpine output wire.
14. At the same speaker connector , T-tap the gray + wire and connect it to the violet + Alpine output wire and T-tap the yellow - wire and connect it to the violet/black - Alpine output wire.
15. Set the amp's input configuration dip switch to 4CH and the input signal type to SPKR. Leave the other switches where they are. The video linked below in step 23 shows setting the dip switches at 9:15.
16. Connect the input and output wiring harness plugs to the Alpine amp.
17. Connect one 5/16" stud 16 AWG ring terminal to the amp's yellow wire.
18. Connect one 5/16" stud 16 AWG ring terminal to the amp's black wire.
19. Connect the yellow wire to the positive (red) post in the penthouse under the back seat (14mm socket).
20. Connect the black wire to the post for the ground (14mm socket).
21. Close the contactor and put the foam cover back over the penthouse.
22. Reconnect your 12v battery in the frunk and power the car on.
23. Follow the instructions for setting the rear gain. This is described in the instructions that came with the amp and also in this video at 20:48.
To help with this use camp mode so the car will not turn the audio off when you move from the front to the back to adjust the setting. Leave the rear window open so you can adjust the gain without opening the door.
24. Smile!

Other people have mounted the amp behind the right rear bolster and that is what I did. Since removing the rear bolster was hard and I don't want to risk breaking the clips, I haven't put it back yet in case I need to adjust things. Remember to reconnect the wires under the back seat at each side and pull the seat belt buckles up when you put the seat in place.
 
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So what does your car say in the “additional info”… my June 2019 build SR+ says premium speakers. I swear it didn’t used to say that but seriously the audio started sounding better back on or around 2021.4.18.2.

I thought some of the speakers weren’t hooked up from the factory. Am I going crazy?

picture for proof
 

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So what does your car say in the “additional info”… my June 2019 build SR+ says premium speakers. I swear it didn’t used to say that but seriously the audio started sounding better back on or around 2021.4.18.2.

I thought some of the speakers weren’t hooked up from the factory. Am I going crazy?

picture for proof

I believe it has always said "Premium Speakers" in the SR+. What distinguishes the SR+ from the premium interior variants is the "No External Amplifier". The premium interior has the second amplifier to power the subwoofer and other speakers.
 
So what does your car say in the “additional info”… my June 2019 build SR+ says premium speakers. I swear it didn’t used to say that but seriously the audio started sounding better back on or around 2021.4.18.2.
Yes, as others have written, my April 2019 build says premium speakers and no external amplifier. Even though it has the speakers they were not connected.
I haven't noticed a change in the sound with the update but I haven't been driving much.
 
I have a 2021 SR+ delivering next week. I am by no means an audio expert, and would like someone’s input to let me know if I’m heading in the right direction. After browsing this forum and many others, here is my plan. My hope is to keep it fairly simple, but vastly improve SQ.

TeslaOffer harness with sub output
Light Harmonic Door Woofers and Dash Mids
Rockford Fosgate P300-10 or JL powered 10-inch micro-sub installed in the sub-trunk

My main concern is will the stock amp have enough power to power the inactive speakers as well as the upgraded light harmonic woofers in addition to sending signal to the powered sub?

I plan on running sun power to the front 12V (reading that there are error messages connecting to penthouse). Anyone have experience with this, I’ve read that the front 12V runs 24/7 and potentially drains the battery? Is there an ideal location to run this without getting interference with the speakers?
 
Read the thread on the NVX subwoofer kit. I have a M3P and did the Light Harmony (amazing) and NVX subwoofer kit (amazing) which addresses the power issue. There is also a wiring product for SR that activates speakers. People with an SR have posted their installs in the NVX thread.
 
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I have a 2021 SR+ delivering next week. I am by no means an audio expert, and would like someone’s input to let me know if I’m heading in the right direction. After browsing this forum and many others, here is my plan. My hope is to keep it fairly simple, but vastly improve SQ.

TeslaOffer harness with sub output
Light Harmonic Door Woofers and Dash Mids
Rockford Fosgate P300-10 or JL powered 10-inch micro-sub installed in the sub-trunk

My main concern is will the stock amp have enough power to power the inactive speakers as well as the upgraded light harmonic woofers in addition to sending signal to the powered sub?

I plan on running sun power to the front 12V (reading that there are error messages connecting to penthouse). Anyone have experience with this, I’ve read that the front 12V runs 24/7 and potentially drains the battery? Is there an ideal location to run this without getting interference with the speakers?
The newer cars don't have the inactive speakers. This is an old thread for the cars that had the inactive speakers. When your car arrives you can check this in the "additional info". These older cars say "premium speakers". Your car likely won't say that.
 
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