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Upper Control Arm Creak Options
- Thread starter PianoAl
- Start date
Hank101
Go Tigers!
He stated that it does not impact the alignment settings, and is replacing a "fixed position direct matching part". The suspension is simply lowered down, pivoting on lower linkage, and then lifted directly back up into position. I took the car to a local alignment shop, and determined it to be "in spec", not requiring any adjustments. The shop stated that they do not adjust when this close in spec (Hunter Machine). I do not have a before measurement to compare. No noticeable difference in driving or drift, holds a straight line on flat straight interstate roads, so I'm content as is. Rotate every 6,000 miles, getting 43,000 per tire set.
Occhis
Member
According to the official installation instructions, marking the positions of these 4 bolts before removal and repositioning them when installing will get you close to previous alignment. But road test on level highway to determine if car tracks straight or if there is any pulling to one side or the other.
This directly from the instructions:
- Perform a validation test drive at road and highway speeds to determine if an alignment check is necessary.
- If the test drive shows the vehicle to track poorly or pull to the side, or if steering is sloppy or off center, then perform a four wheel alignment check. See Four Wheel Alignment Check, and add this service to the SV.
- If the test drive shows the vehicle to steer and handle as expected, then an alignment check is not necessary.
Their seal job didn't prevent it for me. Still got the issue, maybe it delayed it.
That’s their hope I believe. To delay it long enough to be “out of warranty”….then it’s on you.
Ski
Delayed it for me too I suspect, now that I am at 53,000 miles, they accomplished their mission, haha.
suwaneedad
Member
Yes they've been trying (and failing) for five years and counting now. I think they're on revision H or even later at this point.
I used This needle tip on a grease gun with lithium grease and had good results.
I’m at 75k on my 2018 M3. In May 2020 at 26k, I had the drivers side front upper control arm replaced under warranty for the same issue. The replacement started creaking 2 months ago and became increasingly loud as well as becoming noticeable at higher and higher speeds. After injecting grease until the rubber started bulging, it took 90 minutes of driving until the noise completely went away. Hopefully the fix lasts. I’ll update if and when the noise returns.
A mobile service tech who was replacing my 12V battery told me it would cost $300 to replace the upper control arm and that mobile service can do it. He advised me to note in the service request that a service tech confirmed the noise was coming from the control arm. He said if I just put in noises and rattles that I would be sent to a service center by default. Personally, I don’t see the point in paying to replace the part if they haven’t resolved the issue.
I’m at 75k on my 2018 M3. In May 2020 at 26k, I had the drivers side front upper control arm replaced under warranty for the same issue. The replacement started creaking 2 months ago and became increasingly loud as well as becoming noticeable at higher and higher speeds. After injecting grease until the rubber started bulging, it took 90 minutes of driving until the noise completely went away. Hopefully the fix lasts. I’ll update if and when the noise returns.
A mobile service tech who was replacing my 12V battery told me it would cost $300 to replace the upper control arm and that mobile service can do it. He advised me to note in the service request that a service tech confirmed the noise was coming from the control arm. He said if I just put in noises and rattles that I would be sent to a service center by default. Personally, I don’t see the point in paying to replace the part if they haven’t resolved the issue.
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Did you continue to drive it in the meantime? Mine has recently started to make noise but SC can't get me in for 3 weeks. I'm concerned about safety. TIA.
suwaneedad
Member
When this happened to mine, Service Center in Dallas TX said it was not a safety issue to continue driving it (I live in Atlanta). So mine got another 1000 miles or so on it before being replaced; no issue. The noise is embarrassing, but not a safety issue. If you want to DIY it, there is an easy fix here and on YouTube involving injecting some sort of grease into the bellows that is lacking grease (thus the squeaking). I did this about six months ago (the replacement arms having begun squeaking again a few years later) and it's doing great.
This ball joint problem cannot be “fixed” as long as they use the plastic molding/sheet metal version of this part. Water enters the ball joint and the corrosion will destroy the surface of the metal balls. Once it is making noises the damage has been done. If they replace it with the same part then it will happen again. They do have to aluminum cast control arms which are installed from factory on Germany. Not so much here in Austin. Really disappointing.
heavyD
Member
Aren't all new models shipping with the cast aluminum UCA's? I see them all over ebay for sale now.
android04
Active Member
The aftermarket Meyle HD upper control arms are now shipping and were designed to remedy the shortcomings of the OEM parts. I ordered mine from Evannex in March for about $361 for the pair. I just received them on Monday and plan on installing them on my car over the Labor Day weekend.
DeepBlue3
Member
I greased mine with Silicone grease a year ago at the first sign of a squeak. I'm now at 121,000 miles and no issues. I checked a few months ago and there was a suspension or halt of some sort on the TSB for "sealing" the control arm. That probably means it didn't work.
android04
Active Member
I was able to get them installed yesterday. See the following linked post for pictures and details:
Another bad ball joint after 43,000 miles
My 2022 M3P only makes the noise when I am pulling into my garage having to turn slightly right on an incline entering the garage. It's a clicking noise from the left front wheel. Repeatable daily but makes no noise when driving around or in parking lots. Is this a typical sign of water in...
teslamotorsclub.com
DeepBlue3
Member
Update from Post #57 in May:
Still in the lower 120k mileage range. Noise started coming back when coming to a stop and taking off. No signs of the old grease leaking out. Added more grease, removed the T50 bolt and moved the ball joint around and the noise is mostly gone. Note, there is a hole in the fender just above the ball joint that could allow water to drain down onto the joint.
Anyone know the revision level for the new upper control arm that is made from all aluminum? They're no longer black.
Still in the lower 120k mileage range. Noise started coming back when coming to a stop and taking off. No signs of the old grease leaking out. Added more grease, removed the T50 bolt and moved the ball joint around and the noise is mostly gone. Note, there is a hole in the fender just above the ball joint that could allow water to drain down onto the joint.
Anyone know the revision level for the new upper control arm that is made from all aluminum? They're no longer black.
Occhis
Member
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