Using TM-Spy to see Model S data.

[obrien28]

Just to chime in, I recently ordered some kit off of eBay to facilitate testing of TM-Spy, of course now with this talk of an iOS version being released I'm wondering if I should have bought an Android tablet? (it was actually a good deal in all fairness), is there a timeline for the iOS version being released (I would gladly be a beta user on TestFlight or something similar).

My setup is as follows:

1x Flat ribbon type ODB-II cable (link)
1x Vgate WiFi ODB reader (link)
1x A used Nexus 7 tablet as the display side of things

Can anybody chime in as to whether this is a workable setup, I know the OBD readers can be somewhat variable, but I saw a photo of Gary's that showed a Vgate reader (though in a slightly different package).

 

[Chris TX]

1x Flat ribbon type ODB-II cable (link)

You'll need to modify that cable to make it work with the TDP behind the cubby. The OBD2 connector under the dash is useless for getting data like this. If you're looking for a pre-made cable, I have this in the classifieds.

 

[obrien28]

You'll need to modify that cable to make it work with the TDP behind the cubby. The OBD2 connector under the dash is useless for getting data like this. If you're looking for a pre-made cable, I have this in the classifieds.

@Chris

Thanks for the reminder but I'm well aware of the TDC conversion, I intend on clipping one end off and wiring to suit, your cable is quite chunky which is one of the reasons I'm choosing to go with the flat cable linked above. Also, I can get more TDC pin/sockets from Mouser than you can shake a stick at for $20, but I applaud your effort for those that are less inclined with electrical stuff.

 

[garygid]

Generally the Adapter cables used for TM-Spy use only 4 wires, ...
from these pins on the "classic" 12-pin TDC:

1. Ground on TDC pin 9 - goes go OBD pin 4
2. Power ("12v", usually more) from TDC pin 10 - goes to OBD pin 16
3. CAN3 High pin 1 - goes to OBD pin 6
4. CAN3 Low pin 6 (which is adjacent to pin 1) - goes to OBD pin 14

For logging the single CAN3 bus messages, the same adapter cable can be used.

However, for logging up to 3 additional CAN bus messages from the TDC, up to
three aditional pairs (6 more wires) are needed. To avoid polluting this TM-Spy
thread, I have started a multi-CAN Logging thread, to describe what we are
doing for logging:
Logging Multiple CAN Buses to PC with my CAN-Do Program

Cheers, Gary

 

[markb1]

So despite the warnings, I couldn't resist trying to remove the cubby completely. It turned out not to be that difficult to take out and put back, but I do have the carpet instead of the yacht floor, so that might make a difference. Here's my take-apart procedure:

1) Take off both hockey-stick panels (one in each footwell). I used a plastic pry tool to attack these panels from the back, and they came off pretty easily. I'm not sure if it's really necessary to remove these, but it was much easier to see what's going on when reinstalling everything.

2) Remove the small plastic trim piece from below the cubby. I just got my fingers behind it from below (which is easy with the carpet) and pulled the two clips straight back. (When reinstalling this piece, observe the two plastic posts on it that go into the corresponding holes on the right and left.)

3) Remove the cubby. Pull down on the front to release the two clips, and then pull down on the back to release two more clips.

Putting it back together is a straight forward matter of reversing these steps, paying careful attention that everything lines up.

 

[Turbo3]

Version 0.0.15 has just been uploaded to Google and should be available shortly.

A few new functions and lots of fixes.

Supports writing data in new raw frame format. A future version will support reading this new format. Very long traces are supported (up to 2 hours). But this version will only let you view the last 12 to 120 seconds depending on the sample rate you selected since it uses the old format data files. A 2 hour trace takes about to 14 megabytes of storage so be sure to have some free storage available.

Dropbox support has been added so all the files can be automatically uploaded.

I have not had time to check this version out on a Tesla so it is possible I broke something.

 

[Benjamin Brooks]

So despite the warnings, I couldn't resist trying to remove the cubby completely. It turned out not to be that difficult to take out and put back, but I do have the carpet instead of the yacht floor, so that might make a difference. Here's my take-apart procedure:

1) Take off both hockey-stick panels (one in each footwell). I used a plastic pry tool to attack these panels from the back, and they came off pretty easily. I'm not sure if it's really necessary to remove these, but it was much easier to see what's going on when reinstalling everything.

2) Remove the small plastic trim piece from below the cubby. I just got my fingers behind it from below (which is easy with the carpet) and pulled the two clips straight back. (When reinstalling this piece, observe the two plastic posts on it that go into the corresponding holes on the right and left.)

3) Remove the cubby. Pull down on the front to release the two clips, and then pull down on the back to release two more clips.

Putting it back together is a straight forward matter of reversing these steps, paying careful attention that everything lines up.

So if you just want to drop the front of the cubby to access the TDC (instead of completely removing the cubby), you can skip steps 1 & 2, right?

 

[Turbo3]

Version 0.0.16 has been uploaded. It adds automatic graph timescale calculation based on actual frame rate.

 

[garygid]

And, skip the 2nd half of step 3.

I accidentally did all of step 3, and then I could not do step 2, even after step 1.

Cheers, Gary

 

[garygid]

The v0.0.16 update to the Android TM-Spy app just showed up, I updated, and
now my approximately 20 minute previously saved graph displays as not 120 seconds,
but ... a tiny tad over 20 minutes.

Way Cool, thanks a bunch.

Snall bugs:
The tick mark for zero time is a tiny bit too far to the left.
The f/s above now shows as 0.0

 

[markb1]

And, skip the 2nd half of step 3.

I accidentally did all of step 3, and then I could not do step 2, even after step 1.

Cheers, Gary

I concur. No need to detach the back of the cubby (the part toward the front of the car) to access the connector.

Are you saying you couldn't remove the plastic trim piece in step 2, or couldn't get it back in?

 

[garygid]

Could not remove ... with one hand, even with both "hockey stick" trim pieces off.

 

[Chris TX]

Could not remove ... with one hand, even with both "hockey stick" trim pieces off.

Hockey sticks AND bowling alley need to be popped off before you can put the rear of the cubby back in. You might be able to just lift the top/back of the bowling alley and slip the cubby back in.

 

[markb1]

Hockey sticks AND bowling alley need to be popped off before you can put the rear of the cubby back in. You might be able to just lift the top/back of the bowling alley and slip the cubby back in.

Bowling alley? Is that the yacht floor? I don't have that, which might explain why I didn't have any problem.

 

[Turbo3]

Is it time to start a separate thread on accessing the connector and how to get/make the necessary cables for the different versions of the Model S?

Version 0.0.18 of TM-Spy for Android is now out for testing. I am interested in hearing what frame rates people are getting with this version when using the maximum frame rate capture mode. That would be 100 frames/sec for Pack Power and 10 frames/sec for DC-DC Power graphs. On my Event phone I get only around 20 frames/sec instead of 100 and Gary is getting around 92 so it seems to be limited by the Android device speed. On my iTouch the iOS version of TM-Spy is close to 100 but I need to add the measurement code to get the exact number.

 

[Benjamin Brooks]

Is it time to start a separate thread on accessing the connector and how to get/make the necessary cables for the different versions of the Model S?

Version 0.0.18 of TM-Spy for Android is now out for testing. I am interested in hearing what frame rates people are getting with this version when using the maximum frame rate capture mode. That would be 100 frames/sec for Pack Power and 10 frames/sec for DC-DC Power graphs. On my Event phone I get only around 20 frames/sec instead of 100 and Gary is getting around 92 so it seems to be limited by the Android device speed. On my iTouch the iOS version of TM-Spy is close to 100 but I need to add the measurement code to get the exact number.

Awesome! Will you be releasing an iOS beta version via TestFlight or will you be going straight to official release in App Store?

 

[Ingineer]

I have never been able to get the front of the cubby back in w/o taking off the hockey sticks and the little trim piece that holds the top of the yacht floor/bowling alley, then it's easy. To access the connectors the only thing you need to do is pull down on the front half (toward the rear of the car) of the cubby and leave the rear gator clips engaged. The connectors will sometimes be way back there, but it's easy to reach in with a finger and pull them out.

 

[Turbo3]

Awesome! Will you be releasing an iOS beta version via TestFlight or will you be going straight to official release in App Store?

I will be using TestFlight for testing of the iOS version.

 

[Benjamin Brooks]

The recommended OBDII adapter for iOS is the LELink Bluetooth 4.0 LE (Amazon has it). I no longer recommend using WiFi OBDII adapters with iOS. The LELink auto connects (no pairing) and is low power.

For iOS I just need to add your email address to the tester's group. Apple uses TestFlight to manage app testing.

I tried using the LELink OBDII for Android TM-Spy, but it doesn't seem to auto-pair? (Android 4.4, host sees other BT pairable devices but not the OBDII). Guess I'll just have to wait for the iOS version?

 

[markb1]

I tried using the LELink OBDII for Android TM-Spy, but it doesn't seem to auto-pair? (Android 4.4, host sees other BT pairable devices but not the OBDII). Guess I'll just have to wait for the iOS version?

The LELink that I'm thinking of (Amazon.com: LELink Bluetooth Low Energy BLE OBD-II OBD2 Car Diagnostic Tool For iPhone/iPod/iPad: Automotive) only claims support for iOS.