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What portion of your M3 will you clear-bra or wrap for paint protection?

What percentage of your new M3 will you put a clear wrap on for paint protection?

  • 0% - I don't do clear bras or wraps

    Votes: 42 29.6%
  • 10% - Hood lip

    Votes: 1 0.7%
  • 20% - Hood lip and side mirrors

    Votes: 1 0.7%
  • 30% - Hood lip, side mirrors, front bumper

    Votes: 31 21.8%
  • 40% - Hood lip, side mirrors, front bumper, leading roof edge, fender lips, other areas

    Votes: 20 14.1%
  • 50%

    Votes: 9 6.3%
  • 60%

    Votes: 1 0.7%
  • 70%

    Votes: 1 0.7%
  • 80%

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • 90%

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • 100% - I'm wrapping the whole car! Go big or go home!

    Votes: 32 22.5%
  • Other - I'm a pedant and am insulted with the narrow range of choices in this poll.

    Votes: 4 2.8%

  • Total voters
    142
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In my experience the #1 thing that determines how well paint holds up is how often it is waxed and what kind of waxed or protectant is used.

A car that is garaged should get waxed twice a year at a minimum.

Cars that are kept outdoors should be waxed at least every quarter year.

Cars that are kept outdoors need more than the crappy waxes that get sprayed on at automatic car washes. They need high grade synthetic or 100% carnauba waxes that will give them a really tough outer coating to protect the paint and clear coat.

That is likely the issue with my current car. I can't remember the last time I washed it and at this point I'm afraid to I think the dirt is the only thing holding it together. I think it lasted 3 months before I stopped washing it and decided it is an appliance to get me from point a to point b. It got washed a few times after that normally when someone borrowed it they would wash it before returning it.

I'm hoping I will take enough of an interest in the model 3 that I wont let it get to that point but I know myself and figure at most I have 6 months of washing it monthly before I give up.
 
That is likely the issue with my current car. I can't remember the last time I washed it and at this point I'm afraid to I think the dirt is the only thing holding it together. I think it lasted 3 months before I stopped washing it and decided it is an appliance to get me from point a to point b. It got washed a few times after that normally when someone borrowed it they would wash it before returning it.

I'm hoping I will take enough of an interest in the model 3 that I wont let it get to that point but I know myself and figure at most I have 6 months of washing it monthly before I give up.

Lesson learned it sounds like. I have seen 30 year old cars that have paint that still looks amazing and I have seen 10 year old cars where the paint is faded, chipping and peeling.

Even before I had nice cars I kept them clean. How you take care of your things says a lot about you... or does to me anyway.
 
I am currently full wrapping my BMW for $260. I will 100% wrap my M3 myself for about $300. I would expect to pay around $1000 if I hired done. I will order black and wrap it, choosing any color available and protect the paint from initial delivery. If I keep it longer than 5 years, I might even change the color Every few years. Skill level required for DIY is low. I have had other cars clear wrapped, and that worked fine. It was even a very nice "self-healing" 3M product. But I won't clear wrap a black car while I live in Texas. Too damn hot.
 
Couple of things:

1 You get what you pay for. Some pricing listed here is ridiculously low and I would question the skill and quality of work and product being used.
2 Vinyl wraps, while having improved over the years, have limited life. The edges eventually peel and they wear in general. They are meant to be used when you like to change the color of your car every few years or so.
3 Paint correction should be being done as a matter of course regardless of when it came off the assembly line and who the mfg was and what you’re having done.
4 The current trend is partial clear bra followed by the entire car being covered with a nanotech ceramic product. You can get anywhere from a 1 year to lifetime guarantee on the ceramic.

Since the OP asked, the benefit of ceramic is that it makes the car incredibly shiny, makes it super easy to wash off without spending hours shampooing, hand wiping to remove water stains, streaks etc, and waxing, prevents scratching, swirls etc..., protects against chips and is next to impossible to key such a car. It also holds down those clear bra edges.
 
the benefit of ceramic is that it makes the car incredibly shiny, makes it super easy to wash off without spending hours shampooing, hand wiping to remove water stains, streaks etc, and waxing, prevents scratching, swirls etc..., protects against chips and is next to impossible to key such a car.

That sounds… I dunno. I'm a bit of a skeptic when something sounds too good to be true. The scratch/keying/chip protection part is a lot harder to swallow than the "it's easier to clean" part.
 
Yes, a friend of mine actually does the ceramic coat application for a number of customers (dealers and private sector).
He mentioned, if you do have the coin, to go with the XPEL ultimate paint protection and do the entire car. If you don't, getting at least the high traffic areas of the vehicle would be beneficial.
If you don't daily drive the vehicle, applying a ceramic coat will offer lots of protection for years. If you do daily drive it, then getting a ceramic coating done every 1.5-2yrs will extend the life of the paint and make it easier to maintain.

Its all a matter of how much you want to spend, and how long are you going to keep your rides.
 
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most of the quotes i see for full wrap are in the $6k range and go up as high as around $8k.

i haven't seen a shop discount because of the price of the car. if you want a yugo wrapped, it's still expensive since the price is in the labor and materials (not in the cost of your car).

i have seen a place charge less for teslas than bmws because the guy said that teslas are a little easier to wrap (less edges, etc.).

i would wrap at least the front part of the car. if you are fine living with small blemishes from rock chips, that's fine. but if you would pay to get it fixed anyway, it's probably cheaper to get a front wrap in xpel or suntek than pay for a new paint job every few years.

but again, 99% of cars out there have nothing so if you're fine with that look then no need.
 
Couple of things:
Since the OP asked, the benefit of ceramic is that it makes the car incredibly shiny, makes it super easy to wash off without spending hours shampooing, hand wiping to remove water stains, streaks etc, and waxing, prevents scratching, swirls etc..., protects against chips and is next to impossible to key such a car. It also holds down those clear bra edges.

If this ceramic coat is so good, what's the point of a clearbra?

I clear-bra(ed) my cars when I bought them in Colorado thanks to CDOT using gravel for everything (and carried a $100 deductible on my windshield, which a lot of glass shops would waive as a repeat customer), but it seems a lot less valuable here in WA where the roads aren't covered in loose abrasives for 9 months of the year.
 
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If this ceramic coat is so good, what's the point of a clearbra?

I clear-bra(ed) my cars when I bought them in Colorado thanks to CDOT using gravel for everything (and carried a $100 deductible on my windshield, which a lot of glass shops would waive as a repeat customer), but it seems a lot less valuable here in WA where the roads aren't covered in loose abrasives for 9 months of the year.
I think the vinyl wraps provide better protection against scratches and chips and are more durable, but they aren't as easy to clean as the coatings.
 
most of the quotes i see for full wrap are in the $6k range and go up as high as around $8k.

i haven't seen a shop discount because of the price of the car. if you want a yugo wrapped, it's still expensive since the price is in the labor and materials (not in the cost of your car).

i have seen a place charge less for teslas than bmws because the guy said that teslas are a little easier to wrap (less edges, etc.).

i would wrap at least the front part of the car. if you are fine living with small blemishes from rock chips, that's fine. but if you would pay to get it fixed anyway, it's probably cheaper to get a front wrap in xpel or suntek than pay for a new paint job every few years.

but again, 99% of cars out there have nothing so if you're fine with that look then no need.

And you're saying that those prices are similar for even using a product like Xpel vs. some of the high end films people use to change the appearance of the car?

At those prices, they can have the film. You can get a very good paint job where the car is completely re-painted for less than $6,000.

Considering that they have to take quite a bit of the car apart to properly paint it I'm somewhat amazed that it costs $6,000 to apply $200-$500 worth of film coating to a car's paintwork.

The other thing people should keep in mind is that even the really good paint protection products from 3M and others are not impervious to the kind of things that damage paint on cars.

I have partial coverage on the front of my 340i and I have a really nice scar on the material where it took a rock strike.

So, instead of having a big chip on the hood that I very likely could have fixed up with touch up paint and some effort, I have a $200 section of clear-bra that will have to be removed and re-done in order for the car to look "new" again.
 
If this ceramic coat is so good, what's the point of a clearbra?

I clear-bra(ed) my cars when I bought them in Colorado thanks to CDOT using gravel for everything (and carried a $100 deductible on my windshield, which a lot of glass shops would waive as a repeat customer), but it seems a lot less valuable here in WA where the roads aren't covered in loose abrasives for 9 months of the year.

It's no longer just the gravel that they use for winter traction. There is so much construction going on in the Denver area now that sand, gravel and rocks are getting dropped out of trucks almost hourly beating people's cars and windshields up.
 
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If this ceramic coat is so good, what's the point of a clearbra?

I clear-bra(ed) my cars when I bought them in Colorado thanks to CDOT using gravel for everything (and carried a $100 deductible on my windshield, which a lot of glass shops would waive as a repeat customer), but it seems a lot less valuable here in WA where the roads aren't covered in loose abrasives for 9 months of the year.

It’s for extra protection, obviously. Those parts of the car can get pelleted with rocks and other debris. If something on the off chance gets through the ceramic the XPEL is there. Those are also areas that tend to be involved in parking lot et al...situations with bumpers getting scraped.

Some people just get the car ceramic and don’t do the clear bra. Your choice. I’m just passing on info after doing a ton of investigation and talking to owners of several high end shops; the current trend among exotic/rare/muscle car etc... owners is XPEL and ceramic.
 
At those prices, they can have the film. You can get a very good paint job where the car is completely re-painted for less than $6,000.

No you can not. A ‘very good’ paint job runs a whole lot more than that.

The other thing people should keep in mind is that even the really good paint protection products from 3M and others are not impervious to the kind of things that damage paint on cars.

Ceramic Pro offers a lifetime guarantee of their product if you get their Gold Package. Five years for the Silver Package and Two Year’s for their Bronze Package.
 
No you can not. A ‘very good’ paint job runs a whole lot more than that.



Ceramic Pro offers a lifetime guarantee of their product if you get their Gold Package. Five years for the Silver Package and Two Year’s for their Bronze Package.

I had a fairly new car completely repainted as part of a major hail repair. While this was some time ago the paint work was about $3500.

As far as the ceramic product if a rock strike will take the clear coat and paint down to primer or bare metal the ceramic coating doesn’t stand a chance.
 
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I’m convinced CDOT is being paid by window glass shops and manufacturers to strategically put gravel everywhere. I swear I can’t do a Denver and back commute without at least 4 rock strikes anymore. I lived in FL my whole life until 7 years ago and never replaced a windshield but have had 4 replaced since moving here.

I really want Xpel stealth all over as I love that look. Was planning on using the tax credit to justify it, but now I may just go with the bra and ceramics.
 
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Because you’ve got experience with the current nanotech ceramic products...I just said LIFETIME warranty. The ceramic is a lot harder than simple paint and primer.

You're right, I don't have personal experience with today's latest ceramic nanotech products. However I have decades of experience with "if something sounds too good to be true it probably is".

I also understand you are simply repeating manufacturers claims, but in the area of automotive paint care manufacturers have been making bogus claims for nearly a century now, regardless of the warranty they offer for their product (it's worth noting that the warranties often have about 100 get of jail free cards for the manufacturer too and that most owners are going to give up long before the "gold warranty" is ever paid out).

This article had what appears to be a very realistic breakdown on this product including a cogent list of the pros and cons to it (P.S., this is a leading detailer who applies these products);

The Truth About Ceramic Coatings | Charlotte, NC

What they do

EASE OF CLEANING
One of the most significant features of a Ceramic Coating is that it is hydrophobic, which is a fancy way of saying it repels water. When a vehicle has a hydrophobic Ceramic Coating, water will bead on the surface and slide off more easily. This means that mud and grime will have a more difficult time bonding to your vehicle’s paint, and when you wash your car, contaminants can be removed with less effort.

ENHANCED GLOSS
If you want your paint to pop with gloss, you will want to add a Ceramic Coating. A good Ceramic Coating enhances the reflective properties of your car’s paint and clear coat, adding to the depth and clarity of your paint.

What they don't do

Thus, it is important for you to know what a Ceramic Coating does not do.

ELIMINATE THE DANGER OF SCRATCHES, SWIRL MARKS, OR ROCK CHIPS
The scratch-resistance of a Ceramic Coating is often exaggerated. Though some small scratches can be repelled by a Ceramic Coating (as we described above), a coated vehicle will not be completely resistant to the risk of rock chips or parking lot scratches. Furthermore, improper car washing techniques or automated car washes will still create swirl marks on your vehicle’s surface. It is important to know that a Ceramic Coating is not a substitute for more serious scratch or chip protection (such as Paint Protection Film, also known as Clear Bra), nor does it eliminate the need to wash your car in a proper manner in order to avoid swirl marks.[/quote]
 
No one has mentioned it so far so I will put my solution into the hopper.

3M makes a great spray-on product that you can mask the front of your car and simply apply the film from a spray can. Takes about a day to cure and about a week to harden. And if you screw up you just peel it off and try again.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/3M-90200-Paint-Defender-Application-Kit/975421238

Sure, you may get better results from a pro for many hundreds but in the not too distant future both are going to be all pitted and ugly. I just peal it off and do it again. And I have seen what happens when you leave those paint protection films on too long. Really ugly and impossible to remove.

One $10 can does the front of a car:


Cannot tell that I have it on the front of my Volvo. I originally had the dealer apply Celajet, but it still got chips, and bugs still ate the paint if left on too long.

-Randy