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Discussion in 'Model S' started by PhilDavid, Mar 11, 2019.
Are all the mounting points present on the underneath of the car to secure all the mounting points of the rear portion of the updated splash shield in place? I noticed it is much longer than the unit from my 2015 Model S...
Yeah... the Pre-Refresh undersplash is two pieces
Gap filler for sale if anyone wants it. $80 shipped
Also for anyone else. If you want to take the bumper off with the harness, you have to remove the passenger headlight and the harness can be diconnected behind it. If you have to make any adjustments to the harness, this will make it easier.
Got my tbadge trimmed a bit more and got the harness extended. Was able to get the bumper to go in a bit further in the front which made room for my gap filler.
Anyone in Indiana that would like to help me out with this OEM conversion?
Great work everyone and thanks for the idea of using the Model X T-badge. I didn't see any tips on how to best install it so here's my ghetto rig below. Eventually, I want to replace the hood with a refreshed one so this way of installing that doesn't involve warping the front grill. Once I have the new hood installed, I plan on installing the original Model S T-badge again.
Cut off the end of the T-badge mount. This will extend over the latch if you don't and do not cut any further if you want to mount the cover back on the T-badge. Also be prepared to cut through the metal plate that's underneath. Don't mind all of the melted plastic... I was seeing if the metal plate was placed throughout the T-badge mount. (it is)
Next, I needed to remove the hump below the T-badge to sit flat on top of the grill. I did this with a soldering iron with cutting blade and you'll be able to cut down to the metal.
I then drilled through the T-badge to create a mounting point for the rectangular hole already present on top of the plastic grill and used a nut, bolt and washer to mount. By trial error, I marked the T-badge with a red dot on where to drill if you wanted the option of sliding the T-badge flush with the hood or slightly extended passed it.
The rectangular hole in the grill will allow about a 1/2" to slide the T-badge and after I aligned it where I wanted it, I then placed the cover back on the T-badge and called it a day. I included pictures of what it looks like flush and extended for reference. I personally like it a bit extended.
Lastly, a side by side comparison with the factory refresh.
So I went out for a drive the other day and received this message:
Autopilot safety/convenience features unavailable
Features maybe restored on next drive
I've taken a few more drives since then and nothing has changed. I think the radar has to be re-calibrated since I changed the bumper.
Now my issue is how are they going to do this? I have that steel mesh grill in front of the radar. Are they going to refuse to fix this since I changed the bumper?
When you say nothing has changed, do you mean autopilot is still unavailable? So you get this message every time you drive? On MCU2 this is similar to the message you see when Tesla thinks you are not paying attention and have not produced enogh torque on the steering.
Yes still same message appears even after a couple days and multiple drives. I know what you're saying about appearing when you ignore the alerts to keep hands on the wheel, but that's not the case here. I never had autopilot enabled when the message appeared.
Did this happen right after the bumper change? Has anything else changed between the bumper change and receiving the error message?
Nothing but driving it.
Might have to trim around that radar
Great job @Greyworm!! Looks like that apron really did great for the gap. Probably get an apron and take out the gap filler, switch my badge to the x too. @jobiggs24 was telling me about that.
Yeah you need to bring the car to SC to re-calibrate it since the radar had moved. Cost around $200.
You cant have a mesh grill in front of the radar!! I had to do some trimming around mine. I am having some complains as a couple of my bumper sensors are now not flush/on angles due to the short distance of the cabling. I will remove and re-do the 3m tape and see if I can get them to sit perfectly flush and secure.
So yeah, I had a feeling this would happen and thought a couple times about not doing it. Unfortunately, I went ahead with it even given my hesitancy since I didn't really have a viable alternative and because I liked how it looked. Anyway, what's done is done. I will order the refreshed part for that area and make it work around the radar. That part is a little pricey too.
So what happened. Did trimming around the radar work? Or something else?