Where can I find the current Tesla Supercharging costs in Australia?
My car isn't delivered yet, so I can't see the costs in-app or in the car yet.
My car isn't delivered yet, so I can't see the costs in-app or in the car yet.
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mobile charger, plugs into any power point but charges slowly. Slow is fine if you dont drive much during the day, as suggested by QBN aboveWhat is a granny charger?
A granny charger is the unit that lets you charge an EV off a bog-standard home power point, like when you visit granny & want to plug it in at her place.What is a granny charger?
If instead of using a wall charger (I'm renting the place, plus don't want to invest in it unless absolutely necessary), I use a 15amp plug that doesn't exist yet (that is get an electrician to install one), I believe that would be a separate line, wouldn't it? And not end up blowing the fuse? My fusebox is sharing wall with the garage so that should be fine.There are some minor electrical risks using one. Mostly just annoying stuff like tripping a fuse if you also run a kettle & a toaster at the same time on the same fuse. Part of the reason Tesla is moving away from including a UMC is because of stuff like this. A hard-wired wall charger is just safer in every regard.
Universal Mobile Charger (UMC), ie 240V plug one end for wall socket, Type 2 the other end for your car.What is a granny charger?
Best to assume they are always either in use or broken. Also “free” isn’t really what it’s stacked up to be if the charger isn’t convenient to you, available immediately you turn up to it, and you can’t be doing something else while the car is charging. Your time is likely worth rather more than the free-ness saves you.Or maybe I'll use NRMA chargers when available
I'm sure you'll try, but the NRMA charging network is a farce. Most sites are single-stall. They're often queueing because they're free, and they're often out of order for weeks (sometimes months) at a time because they use unreliable Tritium chargers. As the number of EVs is escalating fast, they will become even more of a farce, except in certain remote areas where the locals don't vandalise things & where one stall is enough.Or maybe I'll use NRMA chargers when available. For now NRMA chargers are free for members.
Does make sense. I've used Teslas before (hired them at two different occasions for a week each) and I always used SuperCharger except for once when I used NRMA and it worked then. But again that was early morning about 4:30-5.Universal Mobile Charger (UMC), ie 240V plug one end for wall socket, Type 2 the other end for your car.
Best to assume they are always either in use or broken. Also “free” isn’t really what it’s stacked up to be if the charger isn’t convenient to you, available immediately you turn up to it, and you can’t be doing something else while the car is charging. Your time is likely worth rather more than the free-ness saves you.
I mostly charge at home (overnight and daytime from my home solar) plus use a Jolt 25kW DC charger fairly often when I am at the supermarket near it. On a trip I shoot for the fastest and most convenient charger with no concern for the per-kWh price - queuing for a “free” 50kW charger vs driving straight in to a 350kW charger (and being on the road again in 1/4-1/2 the time) makes any saving from the free one an illusion. Plus “on a trip” is a very small percentage of my annual mileage and charging is cheap - wherever you do it - vs all the other costs of that trip.
YMMV though, just experiment once you get your car, but my best advice is don’t base your plan on the NRMA chargers, however else you might be thinking of charging.
In my case there are 2 fuses for general power outlets. One covers the kitchen and bathroom, the other covers the bedrooms and lounge rooms. Both are 20 amps. I charge at 10 amps. That means I can still run the fin heater in winter, plus all my electronics, and I'll still have oodles of capacity to spare. But a kettle also runs at about 10 amps (albeit for just 2 minutes). And so does a 4-slice toaster. If I was running all of the above simultaneously, I'm in trouble. Best case the fuse trips. Worst case things start getting excessively warm.If instead of using a wall charger (I'm renting the place, plus don't want to invest in it unless absolutely necessary), I use a 15amp plug that doesn't exist yet (that is get an electrician to install one), I believe that would be a separate line, wouldn't it? And not end up blowing the fuse? My fusebox is sharing wall with the garage so that should be fine.
That means installing a wall charger.Also I believe if my house supports controlled load, wouldn't that be a separate one too?
So a controlled load can't be a wall plug of say 15amps or so?That means installing a wall charger.
Generally a controlled load can't just supply an ordinary outlet.So a controlled load can't be a wall plug of say 15amps or so?
I'm still a fan of controlled load, for various reasons.Generally a controlled load can't just supply an ordinary outlet.
It hardly matters though, controlled load is basically obsolete now - the overnight rate on a TOU tariff is generally within a cent or so of the corresponding controlled load tariff.
Enjoy it while it lasts!There's some electricity retailers with special deals for EV owners - eg. if you're often at home on the weekends, Red Energy has an EV plan which has free power between 12pm and 2pm on weekends. Powershop has an extra cheap overnight rate for EVs, depending on your location.
It’s the way you should start your ev ownership given your relatively small km driven per week. You can always upgrade to either a seperate circuit or a wall connector once you see what isnt working for youLooks like UMC is the way to go unless I absolutely need a faster charging
Turn the car charging rate down, or just charge overnight when you're not making toast?Considering some posts above indicating fuse being blown when using toaster + heater + ev charging, etc. What's the best way to avoid this on a 10amp and still be able to use all devices? I mean is it possible at all? What if I pull another 10amp from the mains?
That's what I am thinking off now. That would mean cabling, plus a separate fuse, plus the plug outlet, correct? Or would there be other expenses I would need to consider?I feel that getting a separate circuit - which might as well be 15A - is a wise idea anyway.