Huh? I just press the trunk on the remote until the port turns white and then pull the whole thing out with one hand. Then, I can detach the adapter from the J1772 handle while I'm walking back to the station to hang it up.
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My adapter doesn't fit that tight. If I do it that way, the adapter stays in the car and only the J1772 plug comes out. So I have to have a hand on both.
Jagwease
Member
davewill
Active Member
I don't think he's pushing the button on the J1772 plug, so the latch stays engaged. He's using the remote to release the adapter instead.
TonyWilliams
Active Member
I am guessing because most Tesla drivers don't worry about relying on a public Level 2 charger when out and about or traveling. Mostly because they are too slow.
TonyWilliams
Active Member
It's convenience. If I'm at a hotel, I want the car fully charged in the morning, whether that spot is blocked, or not.
It's not a factor of charging speed or how many times I might use it.
I can also tell you that there are a whole lot of Tesla owners carrying this product.
Yes, would like some help - was going to PM you but thought this could help someone else. I've downloaded the pdf sheet, but it does;t specifically cover the adapter I need (L6-20p "twist lock outlet" to 5-20r).
if you can point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated. I don't want to damage our charge cable, car or house wiring.
It's pretty straight forward. This is the pin out for the L6-20 (plug and then receptacle). The only thing you need to know is that the blade that has a 90 degree notch in it is the ground. The other two blades of the plug are the hot blades (doesn't matter which is which).
Meanwhile the 5-20 looks like this. The ground is the round pin or hole, the blade holes are the hots (for the purposes of making this adapter).
When I make my own adapters, I like to start with a manufactured molded plug, so I usually buy a pre-made cord and then chop off the receptacle end. So I'd buy something like this:
Amazon.com: Tripp Lite Heavy-Duty Power Cord for PDU and UPS 20A, 12AWG (IEC-320-C19 to NEMA L6-20P) 6-ft.(P040-006): Home Audio & Theater
or
Amazon.com: C2G/Cables To Go 10353 12AWG 250 Volt Power Cord (NEMA L6-20P TO IEC320 C19), Black (3 Feet): Home Audio & Theater
Keep the plug end, cut off the receptacle end. Strip back the outer black insulation. Now figure out which of the 3 wires is the ground wire. It might be a different color that the other two. Regardless, check with an ohm meter between the wire and that 90 degree angled blade on the plug to verify which is ground.
Then buy a good 5-20 cord receptacle like this one:
Leviton 5369-C 20 Amp, 125 Volt, Connector, Industrial Grade, Straight Blade, Grounding, Black-White - Electric Plugs - Amazon.com
Wire the identified ground on the wire to the round ground pin on the 5-20 receptacle. Then wire the other two wires to the other two blades. Doesn't matter which goes to which.
Please attach a label to the adapter (near the receptacle end) which says something like:
TELSA CHARGING ONLY. DO NOT USE FOR ANY OTHER PURPOSE.
To test it, plug it into the L-20 socket. Use your volt-ohm meter, set it to AC volts, and plug your probes into the 5-20 receptacle blades or ground pin. You should read 240V between the two blades, and 120V between the ground and either of the other two blades. Don't be sloppy and let the metal part of the probes touch, or else you'll be testing your breaker!!
One last thing. The UMC and 5-20 adapter is kind of heavy and unwieldy. Think about putting up some sort of bracket to hold the UMC off the floor.
Have fun!
Meanwhile the 5-20 looks like this. The ground is the round pin or hole, the blade holes are the hots (for the purposes of making this adapter).
When I make my own adapters, I like to start with a manufactured molded plug, so I usually buy a pre-made cord and then chop off the receptacle end. So I'd buy something like this:
Amazon.com: Tripp Lite Heavy-Duty Power Cord for PDU and UPS 20A, 12AWG (IEC-320-C19 to NEMA L6-20P) 6-ft.(P040-006): Home Audio & Theater
or
Amazon.com: C2G/Cables To Go 10353 12AWG 250 Volt Power Cord (NEMA L6-20P TO IEC320 C19), Black (3 Feet): Home Audio & Theater
Keep the plug end, cut off the receptacle end. Strip back the outer black insulation. Now figure out which of the 3 wires is the ground wire. It might be a different color that the other two. Regardless, check with an ohm meter between the wire and that 90 degree angled blade on the plug to verify which is ground.
Then buy a good 5-20 cord receptacle like this one:
Leviton 5369-C 20 Amp, 125 Volt, Connector, Industrial Grade, Straight Blade, Grounding, Black-White - Electric Plugs - Amazon.com
Wire the identified ground on the wire to the round ground pin on the 5-20 receptacle. Then wire the other two wires to the other two blades. Doesn't matter which goes to which.
Please attach a label to the adapter (near the receptacle end) which says something like:
TELSA CHARGING ONLY. DO NOT USE FOR ANY OTHER PURPOSE.
To test it, plug it into the L-20 socket. Use your volt-ohm meter, set it to AC volts, and plug your probes into the 5-20 receptacle blades or ground pin. You should read 240V between the two blades, and 120V between the ground and either of the other two blades. Don't be sloppy and let the metal part of the probes touch, or else you'll be testing your breaker!!
One last thing. The UMC and 5-20 adapter is kind of heavy and unwieldy. Think about putting up some sort of bracket to hold the UMC off the floor.
Have fun!
Huh? The adapter is held on by the latching mechanism on the J1772 handle.
So, to remove the whole thing from your car, DON'T press the latch button on the J1772 handle. JUST press the remote button until the charge ring turns white. Then pull the whole thing out.
Or, does your J1772 handle not "lock onto" the adapter (or whatever it is plugged into)?
My J1772 handle latch wouldn't hold onto the adapter that well. It would come off regardless of whether I push the button or not. It isn't that strong of a latch. Also, using the key fob is not the way the Tesla delivery specialist showed me how to do it (although I see nothing wrong with doing it that way if you don't mind having to pull out the key fob). The delivery specialist showed me that you push the button on the J1772 adapter which causes the car to release the adapter (the ring turns white) and once it turns white you pull the whole apparatus out together using both hands with one on the J1772 handle and the other on the adapter plugged into the car.
It actually isn't a hard thing to do once you do it a couple times. It would definitely be easier than fishing the key fob out of your pocket when you otherwise didn't need to get it out.
To me it's just easier to hit the j1772 button, take that out and then the car let's go of the adapter, then I snap it back on. Takes 2 seconds vs fishing my keys out and using g the remote. YMMV.
dgpcolorado
high altitude member
That works if the car hasn't finished charging, and I do it too. However, if the car has finished charging it doesn't work IME.
To use the fob to unlock the charge port (or tailgate, frunk, doors) I don't even bother to take it out of my pocket since it is easy to work by feel.
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