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Will using a regular outlet eventually wear out and burn by garage down?

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Plugging and unplugging any outlet can wear it out over time. Drier plugs specifically are usually "cheaper" outlets that are designed to be plugged in once and left there, until you replace the appliance. You can replace the outlet fairly simply with a more robust outlet. Same thing with a regular outlet.

Why are you planning to "plug and unplug" whatever you are using to charge (mobile connector)? Most of the time, for your normal commute, you wont need to take it with you. If you feel you need to take one with you, purchase a spare, either new, or a used one.
 
Exactly buy another mobility cable and whatever adapter you need. I keep one in the car in case I might need it, especially when going places not near supercharger where I can plug in overnight and another stays plugged in full time in the garage. It was cheaper then installing a dedicated wall charger and works fast enough for my needs.
 
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Using a regular 120v wall plug for continuous 12a EV charging is certain to stress the circuit over time. This is like running a vacuum cleaner or microwave oven for hours on end, every single day.

If you intend to charge this way long-term, at minimum I’d replace the receptacle you intend to use with a high quality commercial/industrial unit and check the connection points of every other outlet on the circuit. If the other receptacles are the cheapo “stab” type with the wires just poked into the back, I’d replace all of them with higher quality units and use the screw-down posts.

There’s no reason to plug and unplug the mobile connector and take it with you every day. Few if any people actually need it. In 110,000 miles and 4 years, I can count the number of times I needed to bring it with me on both hands.
 
I set the Tesla to 9A, charge for 4-8 hours at a time and do it 1-2 times a week. But I keep mine plugged in even when not in use.

This is FAR less stress on the electrical circuit then someone running window / portable air conditioner or heater for 6-12 hours daily for weeks or months.

I’m not saying it doesn’t cause stress but millions and millions do it every summer and winter. If it caused excessive damage and fires I’d except to hear out dozens or hundreds of fires daily.
 
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I run a 12A trickle charger for 5mph charge rate, and yeah I worry about this too. I've exhausted my options and there's really nothing I can do to upgrade my charging solution other than to move, which we're gonna do in about 6 months. I can't live like this forever, lol. Townhome problems, especially those built in 1990! That was technically the last year of the 80s, so yeah the builders weren't thinking at ALL about EV charging.

Thankfully we're about 4 miles from a 250 Kw Supercharger, so that helps.
 
so you've (op) "heard" these things, but you should have also "heard" that many people only have this option. most people usually post up bad things on forums--rarely do people post up success on forums with things.

i rely on level 1 16 amp charging on a 20 amp circuit. been doing this since june this year. 24/7 with sentry. don't overload your circuit and keep pushin' (black vernacular - means try to use a dedicated circuit for your charger and enjoy your vehicle).
 
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Receptacles have a cycle lifetime. For the cheaper variety (assumes NEMA 14-50) it's around 300. For the higher quality it's much higher. I've used one for over seven years now. What I do is leave the UMC plugged in unless I'm on a trip or Tesla is checking it (whenever I take the car in). So over the 7.5 years it's received around 30-40 cycles (three or four trips plus one Tesla inspection per year). There's usually no good reason to take it out more often than that.
 
I set the Tesla to 9A, charge for 4-8 hours at a time and do it 1-2 times a week. But I keep mine plugged in even when not in use.

This is FAR less stress on the electrical circuit then someone running window / portable air conditioner or heater for 6-12 hours daily for weeks or months.

Your point in general is well taken but I disagree that the comparison you’re making is “FAR” less stressful than a space heater or window AC - both of which are about the same amperage (typically 9-12), but both of which cycle on/off repeatedly as part of their normal operating modes.

Yes, by design, 15 amp 120v branch circuits should be able to handle 12 amp continuous loads no problem. The issue comes up with the “by design” part - these circuits are precisely the sort that get messed with all the time in typical homes and that homeowners generally feel empowered to mess with - “gee honey can we PLEASE replace these nasty almond colored plugs and wall plates from 1991 with pretty white ones? PLEASE!?!”

Again, probably fine. Usually fine even. But inspecting things end to end and using high quality parts is super cheap insurance.
 
Yes. They should always been inspected and replaced with quality components.

Each time I moved I always replace all the outlets in switches and usually do some box cleanup and occasional new wire pulls, which you have to be very careful with, especially with older wire. You can cause more problems pulling new wire if your not careful, especially if you’re leaving old wire in the same conduit. You never know what’s been installed behind the plate, how it’s wired, etc.
 
Yes. They should always been inspected and replaced with quality components.

Each time I moved I always replace all the outlets in switches and usually do some box cleanup and occasional new wire pulls, which you have to be very careful with, especially with older wire. You can cause more problems pulling new wire if your not careful, especially if you’re leaving old wire in the same conduit. You never know what’s been installed behind the plate, how it’s wired, etc.
If you are running wire to charge an EV (even if it's only 120V) you're not going to be using the same conduit. It's far quicker to just put in new (and quicker is less expensive when it comes to an electrician and his helper's time).
 
Using a regular 120v wall plug for continuous 12a EV charging is certain to stress the circuit over time. This is like running a vacuum cleaner or microwave oven for hours on end, every single day.

If you intend to charge this way long-term, at minimum I’d replace the receptacle you intend to use with a high quality commercial/industrial unit and check the connection points of every other outlet on the circuit. If the other receptacles are the cheapo “stab” type with the wires just poked into the back, I’d replace all of them with higher quality units and use the screw-down posts.

There’s no reason to plug and unplug the mobile connector and take it with you every day. Few if any people actually need it. In 110,000 miles and 4 years, I can count the number of times I needed to bring it with me on both hands.
Yeah my 1978 house was wired using outlets with the wires just pushed in the back. I had a bathroom circuit fail where the neutral side opened up so to earth ground You could see 120v but nothing would work since no return. Now in the process of replacing all the outlets and using the screws! For charging circuit I bought a commercial quality gfi outlet. My electrician friend says that over time the spring contacts loose their springiness.
 
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My Experience :
Charged my Smart Electric on 120V for 50000 km of driving (across two EV's, 2013 and now 2018 model).
Charged my Model S on 120V for 10000 km for one year before upgrading wiring to 240V.

In both cases, the majority of the charging was about 8 straight hours of 120V 12A charging until car completed.
In one case, I charged in 120V 12A for 2.5 days on the Model S.

The wiring was visible to the breaker box, and the wires were warm to the touch in the winter after 8 hours.

No issues. Replaced both receptacles with new screw type and firm pins as recommended up thread, that was the main factor in ensuring safety.

Also attempted to charge on an old 120V outlet at parents house once, didn't work well, Tesla complained of heat on the plug (they have a heat sensor on the connector whew!), which turned out to be due to a poorly gripping receptacle.
 
Yes. Totally. It's a known flaw Tesla is keeping from the public.
Poe's Law is at work here. I can't tell if this is satire/sarcasm or not.
Tesla did not force Leviton to make crummy cheap-o outlets. They were already doing that. And Tesla's installation documents specify to use either the Hubbell or Cooper ones to get a good solid kind. So no, this obviously isn't Tesla's doing, and they are not "keeping this from the public".
 
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Poe's Law is at work here. I can't tell if this is satire/sarcasm or not.
Tesla did not force Leviton to make crummy cheap-o outlets. They were already doing that. And Tesla's installation documents specify to use either the Hubbell or Cooper ones to get a good solid kind. So no, this obviously isn't Tesla's doing, and they are not "keeping this from the public".

Im pretty sure that @Gasaraki 's post is very much satire, but with the way TMC is sometimes I understand 100% why you would say that.
 
Im pretty sure that @Gasaraki 's post is very much satire, but with the way TMC is sometimes I understand 100% why you would say that.
Well I guess that answers that question. I pointed out how it's not Tesla's fault, which would have been agreeing/supporting the idea if it were satire, but @Gasaraki apparently really didn't like me explaining how it is Leviton who makes these crappy outlets, so he marked my post with a "Disagree".
 
... I pointed out how it's not Tesla's fault, which would have been agreeing/supporting the idea if it were satire, but @Gasaraki apparently really didn't like me explaining how it is Leviton who makes these crappy outlets, so he marked my post with a "Disagree".

As I'm sure you are aware, Leviton, along with many other manufacturers, offer receptacles in a variety of grades. Everything from cheapo residential grade (10 pack for $5), to various "spec grade" commercial/industrial/hospital grade receptacles. You get what you pay for.

My recommendation is to always (with the breaker turned off) unscrew and inspect the receptacle. If it was wired via the "back stabs" instead of the screw terminals, because the electrician could save 30 seconds of time by doing so, redo it with the screw terminals. Better yet, replace with a commercial quality receptacle. They aren't that expensive - $5-ish for non-GFI, $20-ish for GFI, at your favorite Big Box hardware store.

Back when I first bought my house, the original portion of which was built in the 1950s, I went through every switch and receptacle I could find and replaced most of them. Found/fixed reversed polarities, open grounds, even some where the plastic housings were so brittle they literally crumbled in my fingers. Since then we rebuilt/expanded the house and virtually all the 1950s wiring has been replaced.