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Would you pay $2000 to go from 4.4 to 3.9 on a Leased car?

Do I upgrade to 3.9sec?

  • I would. I look for every opportunity to put the pedal to the metal.

    Votes: 5 5.6%
  • I would not. 4.4 sec is plenty quick.

    Votes: 42 46.7%
  • Have you maxed IRA investment for the year?

    Votes: 14 15.6%
  • You will only get more speeding tickets.

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • That's the only way to get closer to the Performance model.

    Votes: 4 4.4%
  • This is your Porsche. Do it!

    Votes: 2 2.2%
  • What are you waiting for?!

    Votes: 1 1.1%
  • What else can you do with $2000 and have more fun?

    Votes: 7 7.8%
  • Coke and hookers are illegal.

    Votes: 7 7.8%
  • You live only once.

    Votes: 3 3.3%
  • Other.

    Votes: 5 5.6%

  • Total voters
    90
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Very informative — thank you. Is there any way to confirm (via software version, perhaps?) whether or not a particular car has one or both of the hp bumps? Thanks again.


If you've updated the car anytime in the last 6-7 months it's got all the free bumps already.

2019.36.1 was the second power bump (Nov 1 2019)... First one was 2019.8.2 I think (March 2019)
 
Honestly would suggest getting a performance model 3 instead. It's an extra $4k on the lease over 3 years and brings you from 4.4s to 3.2s. The $2k only brings you from 4.4s to 3.9s, performance is a much better bang for buck.

Just ordered a model 3 long range AWD and wondering if I should change to performance as well...
You would spend even more money on the higher insurance costs of the performance model.
 
If I remember correctly, the VIN doesn't differentiate if it's an AWD or P.

At least up until some point they didn't, maybe they do now.

Insurance usually asks for the specific model of the car, unless you want your replacement car to not be a performance model. If there's no differentiation in the vin, then if the car is totaled, someone can ask for Performance to be replacement for just LRAWD?
 
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Insurance usually asks for the specific model of the car, unless you want your replacement car to not be a performance model. If there's no differentiation in the vin, then if the car is totaled, someone can ask for Performance to be replacement for just LRAWD?

In the case of a totaled car, if you have a P version and told the insurance company the appropriate VIN, but they only charged you the rate for AWD because of their software or some other reason, you still have your purchase documents that show both exactly what car you purchased, and more importantly that you gave them the correct vin, and that vin matches what you purchased.
 
I enjoy the boost. But I wouldn't add it to a leased car. Just like I wouldn't pay 7,000 to enable FSD after the fact on a leased car.

If you add it to a car you own, you will get to enjoy it for 10+ years instead of just 3 years. Or you will get to recoup some of that $2,000 when you sell the car. Either way the monthly cost is much greater adding it to a leased car than it is adding it to an owned car.

2000/36 = 55/month. How much more would it have cost to lease a P? Silly to pay almost as much for the Boost as you would have been paying for a P.
 
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Leased cars may be a good candidate for the plug-in dongle that Electric Garage offers for $1100. Gives the same 0-60 3.9 sec acceleration and is removable so you could sell or transfer it to another car. Still a pretty new item but should get some real customer feedback in the next week or so.

oh yeah... if it's a Tesla lease... *risky* ... I'm pretty sure the lease contract has something to say about non authorized aftermarket performance tunes... in the worst case they find out about it and deem the lease violated OR bill you afterwards extra.
 
It would depend heavily on your financial situation. But to answer your question, probably not. I'm sure the difference is noticeable and the numbers are proof. However, as mentioned already, the idea of paying for something that won't ultimately be mine would be a turn-off.
 
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NOTHING these days is really "ours".

It all comes down to cash. If you can spare it, and you
get significant pleasure out of more acceleration, go
for it, enjoy it.

But this is typical of these after-market add-ons. It's all
about the cash. If you get the Tesla with all its goodies,
like FSD and everything, you don't have to stress out
later over some envelope of Franklins, and look at
spreadsheets and bite your cuticles.
.
 
I looked into returning my LR AWD for a P3D since it has not been 7 days since I took delivery.
Over the 36 month lease period, the cost difference would have been about $6500, which is about $540 per 0.1 sec decreased.
$2000 acceleration boost is $400 per 0.1 sec decreased.
So I bought the boost instead of returning the car for a Performance model.

64% of the poll participants have said no and I went against the majority.
This confirms I am unable to make rational decisions with money or I like acceleration too much.

I shall see how it goes..
 
I just testdrove my car.
It is stupid quick!!

“CHILL SPORT” means i have it, right?
It may not be insanely quick.
But, 3.9sec is absurdly quick!

image.jpg
 
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