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110 W vs Wall Connector or Nema 15

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I just got my M3 last night. I have the midrange battery. Even though I have a 60 amp breaker and the 50 amp receptacle, using the cord and adapter which came with the car, I can see on my screen that the max charge rate is about 32 amps or I think 29 miles of range per hour max. The cord gets warm so I can see that I would have to have to have thicker wire gauge in a cord to charge at a higher rate. Question 1. If I bought the Tesla wall charger would the mid range battery M3 allow a faster charge rate? Question 2. I am retired and even though I normally don’t drive drive the car more than 25 to 35 miles per day, it seems a shame to have had 90 amp wiring installed (for possibly 2 cars which I did very cheaply when the electrician was there installing a sub panel for my solar and maybe future heat pump) and not be able to use it on this car. Question 3. If the tesla charger will do it, I read somewhere that I could but it for $200 to $300 instead of the $500 I saw.

Congratulations!

The mid-range has a 32 amp on-board charger (7.4 kW), so that's its maximum charge rate. The long-range has a 48 amp on-board charger (11.5 kW).

By installing a 90 amp circuit, you've future-proofed yourself. If you get a second EV, you can share two wall connectors on that 90 amp circuit, for a maximum of 72 amps of charging, allowing you to charge your current vehicle at 32 amps while also charging a second vehicle at 40 amps.
 
I just got my M3 last night. I have the midrange battery. Even though I have a 60 amp breaker and the 50 amp receptacle, using the cord and adapter which came with the car, I can see on my screen that the max charge rate is about 32 amps or I think 29 miles of range per hour max.

A 50a outlet should have a 50a breaker. The breaker should protect the ”weakest link” - in this case, the outlet.
 
Good on @brkaus for already catching this, but it can't be mentioned enough. That is a blatant violation of electric code. You are never allowed more than a 50A breaker for a 50A outlet type.

Now the next big question is what size is the wiring. If it's 60 amp wiring, he could replace the receptacle with a wall connector and call it a day. If it's 50 amp wiring, the circuit breaker will need to be replaced with a 50 amp breaker.
 
Now the next big question is what size is the wiring. If it's 60 amp wiring, he could replace the receptacle with a wall connector and call it a day. If it's 50 amp wiring, the circuit breaker will need to be replaced with a 50 amp breaker.
I have found it interesting when people are talking about doing a 14-50 outlet at first but leaving the possibility of going to a wall connector later, and some people here are giving recommendations to go way over on the wiring size, like for a 90 or 100A circuit to allow for future proofing. The problem they seem to not have considered is that the lugs on most brands of 14-50 outlets just can't take 3 gauge or 2 gauge wire. They usually have a maximum of 6 gauge thickness, since 8 or 6 gauge is what you use for 40 or 50 amp circuits that a 14-50 outlet would be on. So oversizing the wire by a lot creates the need for other intermediate connections, like a sub-panel or junction box or Polaris connectors to adapt the wire size down to what the outlet can accept.

So 6 gauge separate wire in conduit is a good compromise since it can fit a 14-50 outlet, but could still support a 60A circuit for an easy swap to a wall connector later without other complicated wiring connections.
 
... The problem they seem to not have considered is that the lugs on most brands of 14-50 outlets just can't take 3 gauge or 2 gauge wire. They usually have a maximum of 6 gauge thickness, since 8 or 6 gauge is what you use for 40 or 50 amp circuits that a 14-50 outlet would be on. So oversizing the wire by a lot creates the need for other intermediate connections, like a sub-panel or junction box or Polaris connectors to adapt the wire size down to what the outlet can accept.

So 6 gauge separate wire in conduit is a good compromise since it can fit a 14-50 outlet, but could still support a 60A circuit for an easy swap to a wall connector later without other complicated wiring connections.

If they ever DO decide to upsize to over 60a, then they would need a disconnect of some sort anyway. If they put that in at the time they do the 14-50, it's a natural place to change wire sizes. That said, I'm usually a bit skeptical of way oversizing, too. There are so many situations where the extra effort will go for naught...the most obvious being that people often move more frequently than they think they will. I know I've griped that I only did a 40a circuit because it was way oversize for my LEAF, but now I could use a 50a circuit with the RAV and would love to become a two EV household. However, 30a charging is actually fast enough for the RAV, and the second car is a Prius plug-in that's perfectly happy with 120v charging, 240v charging would lower the charge time from just under 2 hours to about an hour I estimate, not worth bothering. I'm as likely to move as I am to have two actual EVs in this house.
 
When I get the electrician to install the wall connector, should I have him install a Nema15 plug at the same time? So I have a wall connector, but then have a Nema 15 plug as a back up. In case maybe the wall connector broke down.

Or maybe have the Nema 15 as an extra plug in case there is a 2nd EV or Tesla in the future. Maybe if I get a roommate who also has an EV and wants to plug in. Or maybe have a friend / guest stay the night and they also got an EV? Or wife who owns a Tesla?
I’d just worry about the wall connector. There doesn’t seem to be many postings about them going bad. Your friend can use a regular outlet, lol.
 
When I get the electrician to install the wall connector, should I have him install a Nema15 plug at the same time? So I have a wall connector, but then have a Nema 15 plug as a back up. In case maybe the wall connector broke down.

Or maybe have the Nema 15 as an extra plug in case there is a 2nd EV or Tesla in the future. Maybe if I get a roommate who also has an EV and wants to plug in. Or maybe have a friend / guest stay the night and they also got an EV? Or wife who owns a Tesla?
JetFalcon, those questions are for u to answer. I can recommend though if wire run from the box to the outlet is >75' have them use 6 gauge instead of 8. The wall charger needs a 60Amp circuit while the NEMA 14-50R needs a 50A circuit. If i ever want to spend the added $500 for the wall charger all i'll need to do put 60A circuit breaker in and install the wall charger. The 6 gauge wire can accommodate the extra 10A. More sure you check your local codes by the way.
 
The wall charger needs a 60Amp circuit while the NEMA 14-50R needs a 50A circuit.
I dislike this kind of misinformation. The wall connector is a variable, selectable device. It doesn't "need" one specific level of circuit. It can be selected to operate on many different levels, from 15A to 100A circuits. So if you have a 14-50 outlet, and you just want to swap to the wall connector because it looks more awesome, you can just swap it on there, on the existing 50A circuit. And for that matter, the 14-50 outlet is allowed to be on a 40A circuit, because of an exception in NEC since there is no 40A outlet type.
 
Apologies in advance but going thru this now and im sure im asking redundant questions, and also dont mean to hijack posts.

Currently getting electrical work done with the following scope:
- 200a Current panel is getting a 40a plug outlet(14-50) installed 10ft from panel, outside.(this is to take advantage of the EV Rebate for charging) with misc permits fees
- Install 100a service panel and meter with 240 volt 50a plug outlet installed next to the new outlet as noted on Line 1. (taking advantage of EV TOU rebate) with misc permit fees

Worth mentioning that I have purchased a few 14-50 Tesla Wall Chargers(with 14-50 plug), prefer this as Im not sure when we will be uprooting and want to have that flexibility. I also dont want a shiny Tesla WC sitting outside

Question:
- End result, Outlets will be dedicated Tesla charging as we will be getting a P3D+ in the next month(in addition to our current LR) or so and wanted to make sure that we did everything we can to have the ability to charge at the maximum rate for both outlets.

I hear conjectures on 60a circuits with 14-50 outlets and didnt want to sound (or confirm) like a idiot when talking to the electrician.
 
- 200a Current panel is getting a 40a plug outlet(14-50) installed 10ft from panel, outside.(this is to take advantage of the EV Rebate for charging) with misc permits fees
- Install 100a service panel and meter with 240 volt 50a plug outlet installed next to the new outlet as noted on Line 1. (taking advantage of EV TOU rebate) with misc permit fees
I'm a little confused about why you refer to one as a 40a outlet and the other as a 50a outlet. It is possible to do that, but I don't necessarily get why you would. I would generally just do them both as full 50A kind. I guess if you're going to use one with the mobile charge cable, that could only use up 32A, and the plug in wall connector can draw 40A, so that would make sense if that's how you're planning to use them. (The 32 out of 40 and 40 out of 50 is for the 80% usage requirement.)
I also dont want a shiny Tesla WC sitting outside
Well, I wouldn't go for that. For outdoor installations, I would recommend a wall connector because it's meant to be weather tolerant and has a water-resistant rated enclosure. If you do decide to move, you can take the wall connector off and put an outlet on it then.
I hear conjectures on 60a circuits with 14-50 outlets and didnt want to sound (or confirm) like a idiot when talking to the electrician.
Don't you dare! :eek: That's an obvious and blatant violation of NEC, so you shouldn't even bring up that idea. 14-50 outlets are allowed to be on either 50A or 40A circuits (breakers & wiring).
 
I'm a little confused about why you refer to one as a 40a outlet and the other as a 50a outlet. It is possible to do that, but I don't necessarily get why you would. I would generally just do them both as full 50A kind. I guess if you're going to use one with the mobile charge cable, that could only use up 32A, and the plug in wall connector can draw 40A, so that would make sense if that's how you're planning to use them. (The 32 out of 40 and 40 out of 50 is for the 80% usage requirement.)

I was copying verbatim the scope of work from the electrician.
In theory, i would want them both to the same at 50a/60a,.

Well, I wouldn't go for that. For outdoor installations, I would recommend a wall connector because it's meant to be weather tolerant and has a water-resistant rated enclosure. If you do decide to move, you can take the wall connector off and put an outlet on it then.
I thought that the the new(now obsoleted) 14-50 Tesla HPWC is rated to be weather tolerant and water resistant rated enclosure.
This is crappy as I just spent $$ on these 14-50 HPWC thinking that they were the latest and greatest...tricked again!!

Don't you dare! :eek: That's an obvious and blatant violation of NEC, so you shouldn't even bring up that idea. 14-50 outlets are allowed to be on either 50A or 40A circuits (breakers & wiring).
Someone mentioned it here, but NEC is for infrastructure and HPWC are clearly listed as appliances, not trying to be argumentative.
 
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I was copying verbatim the scope of work from the electrician.
In theory, i would want them both to the same at 50a/60a,.
I'm not getting what aspect you're talking about that is 50a/60a. If you're talking about the outlets, there is no 60a part of any of this.
I thought that the the new(now obsoleted) 14-50 Tesla HPWC is rated to be weather tolerant and water resistant rated enclosure.
This is crappy as I just spent $$ on these 14-50 HPWC thinking that they were the latest and greatest...tricked again!!
Oooohhh, that's right, I forgot that you were talking about the pluggable wall connectors. I'm sorry. I was still thinking of plugging in a mobile connector outside that would be plugged and unplugged often, and that's something I wouldn't recommend. Yeah, the wall connectors are still water tight, so you weren't tricked. I just forgot that part of your install.
Someone mentioned it here, but NEC is for infrastructure and HPWC are clearly listed as appliances, not trying to be argumentative.
Exactly, but let's talk through this. Breaker --> wiring --> outlet
That is all infrastructure, without anything plugged into that outlet yet. You are not allowed to use a 60 amp breaker that goes to a 50 amp outlet type. The outlet installation has to comply with code. The exception thing I referenced earlier may allow the breaker to be lower. This is because most ovens are rated as 40A appliances, so they put that allowance in there. But it is absolutely clear that it says the breaker must not be higher than the rating of the outlet.

And sorry for the mistaken tone. I was thinking like the mock outrage type of thing, but I forgot to mark that.
 
NEMA 14-50 receptacle can be powered by either a 40 amp or a 50 amp breaker.

If you’re putting a wall connector outside, I’d recommend a hard-wired one because it’s harder to steal. If you have extra headroom in your new panel, you could put the hard-wired wall connector on a 60 amp breaker and charge your car at full speed (48 amps, 80% of 60 amps).
 
NEMA 14-50 receptacle can be powered by either a 40 amp or a 50 amp breaker.

If you’re putting a wall connector outside, I’d recommend a hard-wired one because it’s harder to steal. If you have extra headroom in your new panel, you could put the hard-wired wall connector on a 60 amp breaker and charge your car at full speed (48 amps, 80% of 60 amps).

Sounds like that’s what i will have to do.

50a on Plugged in HPWC (on the existing panel) will give me what in Kw/hr/mi?

I’ll purchase a hardwired HPWC for the new panel @60a breaker which will give me the 44/mi/hr?
 
Just took delivery of my Model 3 on Valentines Day last week. Got estimates on installation of a NEMA 14-50 outlet. Did a great job for $350.

Much better charging than my 120V wall outlet in my garage! All you really need for level 2 charging unless you just want a sharp looking WC IMO.
 

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