vogz
Member
No they won’t. Just searched on Advance Auto Parts website and they offer 3 different 12V batteries for the Model 3.
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12v battery issue, Tesla unsatisfactory response
- Thread starter Tjhappel
- Start date
No they won’t. Just searched on Advance Auto Parts website and they offer 3 different 12V batteries for the Model 3.
vogz
Member
Daniel in SD
(supervised)
When I search they list three batteries of different sizes, all wrong.
Seems worse than just listing no batteries TBH. I think something is screwed up with their database.
I might do that when mine goes bad... I cast my own bullets for hand loading ammunition, and lead-acid batteries can be a good source of lead for casting, but it's also a pain to do it safely.
vogz
Member
When I search they list three batteries of different sizes, all wrong.
Seems worse than just listing no batteries TBH. I think something is screwed up with their database.
View attachment 593129
I apologize, I didn't have time to investigate the battery options to see if they were the right size.
I'm sure most auto parts stores would have a 12V battery with similar dimensions available in a pinch though. It's not rocket science and could get you back on the road until you were able to source a proper replacement.
Daniel in SD
(supervised)
Yes. Apparently a 51R battery will fit. And if you're calling AAA just tell them you have a Nissan Leaf.
SageBrush
REJECT Fascism
Speaking of the devil, I bought a 51r interstate branded 12v from walmart a couple of years ago for our LEAF and it is still doing fine even though I don't think it is a deep cycle battery. Perhaps it knows that it has a 5 year warrantyYes. Apparently a 51R battery will fit. And if you're calling AAA just tell them you have a Nissan Leaf.
alstoralset
Man from another place
Has anyone tried desulfating one of these failing batteries?
I've had good luck desulfating a few batteries that have failed to the point that they won't hold a charge. After a couple of weeks of desulfating with the unit below, they become operational again.
It would be scary to desulfate a Tesla battery in situ, so this would probably be something you do with your first battery after getting a replacement, unless you can pull the battery and not drive the car for an extended period.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7HZ6FC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've had good luck desulfating a few batteries that have failed to the point that they won't hold a charge. After a couple of weeks of desulfating with the unit below, they become operational again.
It would be scary to desulfate a Tesla battery in situ, so this would probably be something you do with your first battery after getting a replacement, unless you can pull the battery and not drive the car for an extended period.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7HZ6FC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Blue Express
Member
When I search they list three batteries of different sizes, all wrong.
Seems worse than just listing no batteries TBH. I think something is screwed up with their database.
View attachment 593129
Try these:
https://www.autozone.com/batteries-...6b24r-450-cca/315064_113190_25697?spps.s=6831
https://www.autozone.com/exterior-a...-sport-battery-340-cca/350084_0_0?spps.s=2969
Yeah, not a big deal to just replace it. Not different than an ICE vehicle.
I walked into NAPA auto parts with the dead battery, they had a replacement in stock. Period.
took me about 4 minutes.
I walked into NAPA auto parts with the dead battery, they had a replacement in stock. Period.
took me about 4 minutes.
Daniel in SD
(supervised)
Pretty sure those are both wrong. The second one doesn’t even have standard terminals! Haha.
I guess this is what happens when the thread goes on for so long.
Daniel in SD
(supervised)
Yep. As long as you ask for a 51R or get someone willing to measure the size you’ll be fine. I don’t think the Model 3 is in their database since they don’t sell the “exact” battery.
smatthew
Active Member
I don't think a desulfator isn't going to help most failing batteries we hear about here. If the battery was just having difficulty holding a charge, that would be when you get a nice error message and have a fair amount of time to deal with it. But most failures we hear about appear to be shorted cells and corroded plates.
Plus batteries only get sulfated when they're constantly undercharged. Not really what's going on with a Tesla.
However, if you already have a desulfator, give it a try on your old battery after you get a new one and let us know!
SageBrush
REJECT Fascism
What about front/back positioning of the posts ?
From pictures I get the impression that it is not standardized. My recollection (don't take my word for it !!) from the last time I looked at the Model 3 battery is that the positive terminal is to the left and back of the battery but that the terminals may be long enough to also attach to posts in the front
that is what the "R" in 51R is for. Right positive terminal. It installs backwards.
SageBrush
REJECT Fascism
Does that mean that all 12v batteries are oriented for labeling with the posts in the front ?
That is supposed to be the way it works. I can't that it is 100% true but it has been in my experience.
RayK
Active Member
It's not really "front" vs. "back". It's the positioning of the positive terminal with respect to the long edge of the battery closest to it. Most 12V batteries will have their terminals closest to one edge than the opposite side. When a battery of a particular physical size and CCA rating is available in two group versions, the non-R (sometimes it's an F) battery will have the positive terminal on the LEFT, whereas the R (or F) battery will have the positive terminal on the RIGHT. This can be seen in the chart here:
BCI
Column title BCI is the group number for the battery, while Polarity is stated as L/H-POS for left hand positive or R/H-POS for right hand positive. Examples are 21 vs 21R, 24 vs 24F, 27 vs 27F and 34 vs. 34R.
BCI
Column title BCI is the group number for the battery, while Polarity is stated as L/H-POS for left hand positive or R/H-POS for right hand positive. Examples are 21 vs 21R, 24 vs 24F, 27 vs 27F and 34 vs. 34R.
scottf200
Well-Known Member
Thanks for that idea. It looks like this is the common one out there and it seems it is rebranded and sold but others (often at higher cost!).
https://smile.amazon.com/QUICKLYNKS-Battery-Monitor-Bluetooth-Device/dp/B01MT4583U
Despite my best efforts of testing & monitor (IR) my 12v , I had a 12v battery failure during an OTA update while on a road trip. 2020.40.3 was successfully installed on 1000s of cars so I was confident ... famous last words.
The article I found and mentioned in the below thread shows Tesla is following common guidelines for maintaining the 12v as far as I can tell via empirical evidence I see.
I monitored the 12v battery voltage during an OTA update
Daniel in SD
(supervised)
Yeah, don't do that. I only do OTA updates with the car in my driveway with another functional car next to it.
I wonder if the problem is that Tesla got a bunch of bad batteries from the supplier. It sounds like the failure mode is not typical capacity degradation so they're have trouble detecting it.
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