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255/45R20 Tires on the 20" Inductions?

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I'm running Goodyear WinterCommand 255-45-20 on Inductions for winter wheels.
and Continental Crosscontact RX 255-45-20 on Inductions for the spring/summer/fall.

About 14K miles on the combined setup.
My only complaint is the road spray is a bit worse. I would suggest a PPF kit for the lower door areas.

PXL_20230120_142508606.jpg
 
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Also note that the CC2 in 255-45-20 offer NO rim protection. The edge of the tire sits flush with the rim.

The Vredestein offers some rim protection as you can see in post 25 in this thread.
Looks like you’re on inductions (9.5”) vs uberturbine (9”) width, correct? The latter should provide some rim protection on CC2 255/45/20s I believe. Someone correct me if I’m wrong.
 
Just finished my set up inspired by @smithrukami's video
. Swapped from standard 21" staggered with Michelin AS4s.

Front: 20x9 Uberturbine - Michelin CC2 255/45/20 - 29.1"
Rear: 21x9.5 Uberturbine (former front wheels) - Michelin CC2 275/40/21 - 29.6"

Initial thoughts: Overall ride feels softer, more so than with 21" uberturbine with 275/35/21s in the front, and 295/35/21s in the rear.

Pros:
  • Smoother, squishier ride, quiet, overall pleasant
  • Drove through a storm today and Michelin CC2s performed great!
  • Higher sidewall adds slightly curb rash protection
Cons so far:
  • Steering feels 'heavier' than stock - and has a bit of understeer - not sure if this improves with wheel balancing and alignment. I'll find out tomorrow.
  • Speedo is slightly off, haven't compared with GPS but will report back after I do.
  • Range - didn't notice too big of a hit but will report back after further analysis.
I'm impressed so far. Feels a like a 20% - 30% improvement from stock. I'm hoping steering improves after alignment and wheel balancing, but it's not a deal breaker for me. I'll check back with any updates.
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Considering Redwood Ohlins Grand Touring comfort coilovers next...


 
I have had the Michelin Pilot Sport All Season 4 in 255/45R20 for about 3000 miles now and the ride and handling is definitely an improvement over the stock Goodyear F1 tires on Induction wheels. At 65 MPH I am showing about +1MPH over indicated and at 75 MPH I am showing +2MPH over indicated based on GPS. During a roadtrip from LA to Vegas I averaged 325 Wh/mile doing 70 miles per hour which is a worse than stock (290 Wh/mile @70MPH). I'm sure this has to do partly with the increase in rolling resistance and the other being this is heavier than stock. Hopefully it will improve as the tires wear a bit more because the old tires showed improvement in efficiency towards the end of their useful life of 38k miles. Overall I am pleased with the ride feel enough that I can overlook the increase in consumption.
 
Hi, I am also considering using 255/45r20s. How do you notice the speedo is off?

Definitive answer below…

It’s 3.6% bigger diameter.

Which should mean you’re going 3.6% faster than your car displays.

But I just swapped to 255/45R20 and drove across Canada (heading back home on Monday). Lots of time on Autopilot, lots of speed zones, and I didn’t want to get a ticket.

I downloaded a GPS speed app on my phone. On level ground (must be level ground) it showed about 116 when the car was cruising at 115kph.

That’s a lot lower than 3.6%.

Possible reasons:

1. The original speedo was tuned low. (I didn’t test with my 255/40R20 before the swap.)

2. App reads low.

3. Car does some sort of calibration to normalize between its rolling vs gps distance/speed measurement.
 
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Definitive answer below…

It’s 3.6% bigger diameter.

Which should mean you’re going 3.6% faster than your car displays.
I downloaded a GPS speed app on my phone. On level ground (must be level ground) it showed about 116 when the car was cruising at 115kph.

That’s a lot lower than 3.6%.
I don’t have the numbers on hand, but the 21” Uberturbine standard rear tire size is a lot closer to the overall diameter of 255/45-20, so people who switch over a MYP will not have much difference, or if you set the wheel in the maintenance menu in MYLR to 21” Uberturbine. Also, some tires with the same size spec still vary in overall diameter and width. I think Tirerack charts show the actual measurements.
 
Here are Michelin Pilot All Seasons 255/45 20R on M3P Uberturbines. I like the way they turned out. No rubbing even at full tilt. The ride is definitely more comfortable but they are new so no real data on how it has affected range. I am coming from 21" Uberturbines-> 19" Gemini -> 20" Uberturbines.

I'll update when I get more time with them
How wide are the M3P Ubers? Thanks
 
Definitive answer below…

It’s 3.6% bigger diameter.

Which should mean you’re going 3.6% faster than your car displays.

But I just swapped to 255/45R20 and drove across Canada (heading back home on Monday). Lots of time on Autopilot, lots of speed zones, and I didn’t want to get a ticket.

I downloaded a GPS speed app on my phone. On level ground (must be level ground) it showed about 116 when the car was cruising at 115kph.

That’s a lot lower than 3.6%.

Possible reasons:

1. The original speedo was tuned low. (I didn’t test with my 255/40R20 before the swap.)

2. App reads low.

3. Car does some sort of calibration to normalize between its rolling vs gps distance/speed measurement.
The car reads high… as in whatever the car says (40 mph), you’re going slower than that (38-39 mph). I’ve checked against multiple “your speed is..” signs with the Y.

This is actually true for at least one other car brand (pretty sure for more too, but I can only confirm my own experience). Both my 2010 Honda Fit and 2019 Honda HR-V did that too. For the HR-V, I also compared against a GPS app on my phone. I don’t remember if I compared to a GPS app on my phone for the Fit, but it has an aftermarket GPS with its own speed indicator I could compare and I also timed mile markers on the highway while cruising to do calculations.

All with the same result, with OE specs (wheel/tire size/pressure), actual speed is lower than speedometer. So, calculations on changes based on OE specs will be similarly affected.

If I increase pressure a bit (3 psi for HR-V, 5 psi for Fit), it’ll be pretty close even at 80 mph.

Additionally, with my Hondas, it appears to be measured by a speed sensor on the front axle, if not specifically the front right wheel. I say this because it’s most noticeable if I have a spare tire (being smaller) on that corner. Not sure if the Y has a sensor there or how it measures speed to begin with. I would assume something similar as the outer diameter of the front wheels on the Y are all the same from factory. 255/45/19 = 255/40/20 = 255/35/21, which are all 28” outer diameter. This way, it doesn’t have to actually recalibrate the speedo regardless of wheel set. I could just as easily be wrong, but it is one less thing that doesn’t need to be done.
 
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Just finished my set up inspired by @smithrukami's video
. Swapped from standard 21" staggered with Michelin AS4s.

Front: 20x9 Uberturbine - Michelin CC2 255/45/20 - 29.1"
Rear: 21x9.5 Uberturbine (former front wheels) - Michelin CC2 275/40/21 - 29.6"

Initial thoughts: Overall ride feels softer, more so than with 21" uberturbine with 275/35/21s in the front, and 295/35/21s in the rear.

Pros:
  • Smoother, squishier ride, quiet, overall pleasant
  • Drove through a storm today and Michelin CC2s performed great!
  • Higher sidewall adds slightly curb rash protection
Cons so far:
  • Steering feels 'heavier' than stock - and has a bit of understeer - not sure if this improves with wheel balancing and alignment. I'll find out tomorrow.
  • Speedo is slightly off, haven't compared with GPS but will report back after I do.
  • Range - didn't notice too big of a hit but will report back after further analysis.
I'm impressed so far. Feels a like a 20% - 30% improvement from stock. I'm hoping steering improves after alignment and wheel balancing, but it's not a deal breaker for me. I'll check back with any updates. View attachment 933139
View attachment 933140
View attachment 933141

Considering Redwood Ohlins Grand Touring comfort coilovers next...


I would guess the 275 in front causes unsersteer.
 
Except the person you’re replying to change TO 255 in the front, just like your video.

255/45/20 is narrower and taller than the 275/35/21 that they changed from. A narrower tire obviously has a narrower contact patch and possibly less traction during a turn.

Being taller means the tire can flex more, particularly side-to-side which you notice a lot during steering changes, or simply a turn. It’s the biggest negative I have for going 255/45/19 from 255/35/21 on the MYP.

But I’ll stick with it, just for for decreased chance of curb rash.
 
I don’t have the numbers on hand, but the 21” Uberturbine standard rear tire size is a lot closer to the overall diameter of 255/45-20, so people who switch over a MYP will not have much difference, or if you set the wheel in the maintenance menu in MYLR to 21” Uberturbine. Also, some tires with the same size spec still vary in overall diameter and width. I think Tirerack charts show the actual measurements.

Speedo/odo reads off the front wheels. And the Uberturbines on the MYP have identical diameter as the 19 & 20 in MY rim options.

So all MY switching the front tires to a different size will affect the speedo/odo the same.

Tire Differences Model Y and Model 3.png
 
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Speedo/odo reads off the front wheels. And the Uberturbines on the MYP have identical diameter as the 19 & 20 in MY rim options.

So all MY switching the front tires to a different size will affect the speedo/odo the same.
How do you know it reads off the front wheels? The wheel setting would be pointless then. Others have said there are sensors on all wheels.
 
How do you know it reads off the front wheels? The wheel setting would be pointless then. Others have said there are sensors on all wheels.
The wheel setting doesn't have to be for the speedometer. Consider there's no change between Geminis vs Induction as far as tire outer diameter for front or rear.

It could be for the fact that the wheels still weigh different amounts, so it can calculate power vs wheel spin (for "efficiency" calculations).

Or, since I have the MYP. I was thinking because when you go from square to staggered setup, you have to adjust the power between the front motor vs the rear motor for "optimal" performance.

Then, as far as traction goes... in a square setup, the wheels will all spin at the same rate when going straight. But the rear are bigger in a staggered setup, so they spin less to travel the same linear distance. The computer needs to know when it checks for traction loss (excess spinning).

Finally, I mentioned this somewhere... but think about "simplification," something Tesla touts. If all three configurations have the same outer diameter in the front, then you don't have to make additional/complicated code to take into account changes in wheels size.