...On AP2 it is on the left side of the autopilot engine (like in my video). On AP2.5 it is on the right side (even easier to access).
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...On AP2 it is on the left side of the autopilot engine (like in my video). On AP2.5 it is on the right side (even easier to access).
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
You will also likely need to disassemble the connector to swap out the outer black portion of the connector housing. The AP Engine connector where it came out has an unusual design and the short cable you will be plugging in, does not match. Go back to my previous post where I talked about installing the front cam kit and CAN BUS Kit in the first X and you will learn more.
What I am saying is you will want (need to) swap the connector housing from the one coming out of the AP Engine to put it on the short cable end going back in. The outside of the connector is a little different and you need the swap or the short cable's original connector will not gracefully go into the AP Engine connector.
Its easy to take the connector apart. Use a very small screwdriver or probe to lift the purple plastic lock out then the connector will slide off. CAREFUL, there's a specific alignment for the connector coming off and going back on so the connector pins match the original pins in the AP Engine connector. Its not hard, just take a good and careful look at what you are doing so you get it right.
If you have already got your installation done, please come tell others what you think of the result. I've been using the front camera now for 4 1/2 years. Best mod that I have done to my S. Being able to see in front where I am when parking has saved scratches and busting up my lower splitter dozens of times. This is a great mod - saves your car. AS you know, the car's parking sensors don't "see" the concrete bumpers or curbs when you pull forward. The front cam saves your car from damage.
What I am saying is you will want (need to) swap the connector housing from the one coming out of the AP Engine to put it on the short cable end going back in. The outside of the connector is a little different and you need the swap or the short cable's original connector will not gracefully go into the AP Engine connector.
Its easy to take the connector apart. Use a very small screwdriver or probe to lift the purple plastic lock out then the connector will slide off. CAREFUL, there's a specific alignment for the connector coming off and going back on so the connector pins match the original pins in the AP Engine connector. Its not hard, just take a good and careful look at what you are doing so you get it right.
If you have already got your installation done, please come tell others what you think of the result. I've been using the front camera now for 4 1/2 years. Best mod that I have done to my S. Being able to see in front where I am when parking has saved scratches and busting up my lower splitter dozens of times. This is a great mod - saves your car. AS you know, the car's parking sensors don't "see" the concrete bumpers or curbs when you pull forward. The front cam saves your car from damage.
HankLloydRight
No Roads
I can't echo this enough. Every single time I park my car nose-in the front camera is like a gift from heaven (or really, @artsci).
While the Light Harmonic amp is awesome (thanks @Muzzman1 !) I could live without it.
I couldn't live without the front camera.
How awesome would it be if Tesla incorporated a front camera as one of those little 'line changes' they make all the time.
SCEV
Member
Has anyone tried mounting the front camera “in” the fake grill on the older models? I was thinking of cutting a small 1”x1” (approx) hole on the bottom of it and mounting it just like the factory rear cam. That way it’s even more hidden, and relatively easy/inexpensive to replace that front grill if you had to later on.
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
I don't know why you would want to hid it inside the grille. I think artsci did it on his. I saw a picture of it. Just a dab of Goop will hold it just fine on the top or bottom of the openings to the grille. Look at some of the pictures across this thread and the other front cam threads before you hack your grille. Besides, you could always hack the grille later if you need to and change the location.
icefree
Member
Hope it's ok to ask install and troubleshooting questions here...
So I have the box hooked up, DISPLAY going to the APE via the short cable (I swapped the connector housing), the original rear camera feed going to REAR, and the front camera going to FRONT. I've verified that I'm getting GND and V+ (14V) from the CANBUS kit to the box. But the MCU rear camera view still shows as camera is disconnected. I shift to R and D, and it still shows as disconnected.
Any tips on what to check?
Also, how do you use the remote switches? I've installed batteries, but which button do you use? A, B, C or D? and how do you get the remotes linked to the switching box?
Thanks for any help.
Edit: ok, re-thought how I have it hooked up, and the APE goes to the REAR (via the short cable), the existing cable goes to the DISPLAY, and FRONT goes to the front camera.
I'm now getting the rear camera to display on the MCU, but I can't get it to display the front camera. Shifting to D does not bring up the front camera, it stays as the rear.
Still haven't figured out the remotes, though.
Edit #2: it's finally working. I verified that I was getting +13V on the R wire when going into Reverse. For silly I attached the R wire to the Front terminal on the switch, and was able to get the front camera when going into reverse, as expected when doing that. I then put the R wire back to the Rear terminal, and after several cycles of D...R...P...D...R...P etc. it appears to be switching cameras properly now. Whew.
But still haven't figured out the remotes...
So I have the box hooked up, DISPLAY going to the APE via the short cable (I swapped the connector housing), the original rear camera feed going to REAR, and the front camera going to FRONT. I've verified that I'm getting GND and V+ (14V) from the CANBUS kit to the box. But the MCU rear camera view still shows as camera is disconnected. I shift to R and D, and it still shows as disconnected.
Any tips on what to check?
Also, how do you use the remote switches? I've installed batteries, but which button do you use? A, B, C or D? and how do you get the remotes linked to the switching box?
Thanks for any help.
Edit: ok, re-thought how I have it hooked up, and the APE goes to the REAR (via the short cable), the existing cable goes to the DISPLAY, and FRONT goes to the front camera.
I'm now getting the rear camera to display on the MCU, but I can't get it to display the front camera. Shifting to D does not bring up the front camera, it stays as the rear.
Still haven't figured out the remotes, though.
Edit #2: it's finally working. I verified that I was getting +13V on the R wire when going into Reverse. For silly I attached the R wire to the Front terminal on the switch, and was able to get the front camera when going into reverse, as expected when doing that. I then put the R wire back to the Rear terminal, and after several cycles of D...R...P...D...R...P etc. it appears to be switching cameras properly now. Whew.
But still haven't figured out the remotes...
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SCEV
Member
You mentioned PWR and GND...do you have the reverse signal from the CANBUS kit connected to the switch?
icefree
Member
Yes, I have the "R" wire connected to the Rear terminal on the switch box. The Front terminal is not being used.
SCEV
Member
Use the “D” button. You have to pair it... did you get a 27A battery in the remote?
Also, RE cables, you shouldn’t have to “swap housings” if you got the custom cables from Artsci; they’re the water blue universal keying so will plug in just fine.
Same for the black cable plugging into the switcher.
icefree
Member
Yes, I have the 27A batteries for the remotes. How do you pair them to the switch?
Ah, ok, well, I swapped the housing before testing based on some comments above, but no problem, I finally have it all wired up. Thanks.
The "learn" button for the switcher box is inside itself. I had to disassemble it by removing the 4 screws, then reconnect it all (including power) and push the learn button. It lit up red solid, after which I pushed the "D" button on the remote and the red learn button turned off.
It's not accessible without disassembling? I don't have a final switcher with case.. can someone that does post some photos?
JohnnyG
Weee!
I can confirm this as well... The access hole is missing...
@artsci , how are we doing on getting updated instructions out (specifically for AP1 nosecone)?
@appleguru , I'm assuming you're putting together some instructions on using the CANbus Kit as well as some detail on the giraffe (i.e. J2, J3, J6, etc)?
I don't mind digging, guessing, exploring, when it's in June, but when it's cold, dark, and the busy holiday season, I'd like to just jump in and get it done. Reading the troubles some are having, trying to figure it out on their own; I don't want to go down that same path right now.
Thanks!!
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Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
Yes to using only the "D" button. I while I had mine disassembled to put the battery in it, I removed the black slider to make it easier to find the D button when I wasn't looking. I then went a little further. I took some black Gorilla tape and covered A, B, and C so I can feel and won't press them.
While you are pairing the remote, don't forget to do both.
While you are pairing the remote, don't forget to do both.
HankLloydRight
No Roads
The instructions are exactly the same for AP1 as non-AP cars and the instructions for that are in the V1 threads somewhere.
AP2 will be a little different.
icefree
Member
Ah, ok, thanks. Well, since I have the car put back together, I guess I won't be using the remotes for now.
icefree
Member
Thanks to @artsci for the Camera Switch kit, and @appleguru for the CANbus kit.
Here are my tips and tricks I learned installing the setup on an AP2 Model S:
Here are my tips and tricks I learned installing the setup on an AP2 Model S:
- Pair the remotes with the switch box before installing box (see above) (I haven't done this yet, when I do, I'll take more pictures since I have to take the car apart again to get to the box)
- The APE module is located above the glove box. You'll need to remove the trim panel on the right (end cap panel), above and below the glove box to access the removal screws. There are 6 T20 screws to remove. Then there are 3 plugs to remove from the glove box.
- I found it easier to remove the video cable by lowering the APE. The video cable has a locking tab, and it's on top of the cable, where it's nearly impossible to reach. You can lower the APE by removing the 4 mounting nuts, then you can get to the cable. There are two fans attached to the top of APE, and they may be spinning, so be careful when you lower it not to hit or damage the fans.
- The cable you'll want to remove is the 3rd cable from the back of the APE (or from the front of the car direction). You'll see 2 blue cable housings then a black one. The black one is the one to remove (not sure if the colors are potentially different on other cars).
- The short cable from the switch kit goes into the APE, then goes to the REAR connector on the switch box. The existing cable in the car goes to the DISPLAY on the box, and the Front camera cable goes to the FRONT connector on the box.
- In wiring the front camera, I found it easier to go from the door jam side to the frunk (instead of the opposite). I also did not need to push the cable down into the body panel. There is a small tunnel from the door jam to the frunk under the quarter panel. You can see the light at then end of the tunnel in the picture below. I removed the plastic housing from the front camera cable and simply pushed the cable through. My car had some glue holding the top of the quarter panel, so I couldn't push the cable through that anyway (may be something specific to my car).
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