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There should be a carpeted closeout panel on both the left and the right side of the center console. I'd start by removing the one on your passenger side and seeing if you can get at the connector from there. (The connector should be on the bottom toward the center; it is blue).
Here of some photos of the closeout panel from my model s; I believe the one on the X is the same (or if not, very similar). Once you find it, it just sort of pulls out. It is held in place by automotive clips; some plastic trim tools help:
From: 12V Accessory Circuit connection?
aesculus
Still Trying to Figure This All Out
Thanks. I will give it a try next week and let you know how it goes.
I will take some pictures too just in case anyone tries this with an older MX.
BTW I got a loaner MS75D with AP2 cameras but no AP2 turned on. I'll keep my 2016 MX when I get it back from it's annual.
aesculus
Still Trying to Figure This All Out
BTW where did you end up putting the switch on your Model S if the connector was located in the center console vs the left kick panel. And I assume the wires from the Panda/Giraffe will be long enough to reach too?
On the S the connector is in a different place for Pre AP and AP1 cares (behind the kick panel next to the driver's door).
However, there should be some space to fit the camera switcher under the center console on your X (and the cables should be long enough... hopefully!).
You are the first one to attempt an AP1 Model X for this mod as far as I know, so please do take photos/document as you go and let us know how we can help!
aesculus
Still Trying to Figure This All Out
I will as soon as it's back from service and I snag the last license plate camera mount in existence.
berkeley_ecar
S 90D (fully loaded) delivered 18 Mar 2017
@HankLloydRight have you tested these controls yet? The web site you point us to is somewhat confusing (at least to me). It describes the device as being 9V/12V/24V 10A,
but it looks as if it is a battery-powered unit. There is no reference to the type of battery
it uses (that I can find). They look very appealing, but I hope that they use a more
standard button-type battery rather than the 12V 27A battery employed by the remotes that come with the camera kit. Your experienced comments will be warmly welcomed.
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HankLloydRight
No Roads
They just arrived a few days ago.. I plan to get them tested out tomorrow! Will report back.
HankLloydRight
No Roads
Ok, some good news/bad news (but not really that bad).
The good news is these buttons work well to control 433mHz remote devices, and their distance is pretty good. Definitely good enough for the front camera switch and my EV-Horn. Also, good news is that they operate on a stack of three CR2016 batteries. Remove two small screws to take the back off and the batteries are easily accessible. Also, with 3 CR2016 batteries, these buttons should have a pretty long shelf life before needing battery changes. The "9V/12V/24V 10A" business is text copied from other 1-channel remote receivers/relays they sell that have those power ratings. They're unrelated to the remote button.
The slightly bad news is that these are not learning or programmable buttons. So you'll need to program the receiver (the front camera switch) to learn this button's unique code, which only requires hitting that little button on the switch board to put it into learning mode, and then pressing the remote button and the LED should flash once or twice. Also, most of these 433mHz receivers can store/learn many different codes, so you can use this button and the supplied remote (and Homelink) all at the same time.
I'll definitely use one of these to sound one of my EV-horn sounds quickly, without fumbling for a remote control in the console, and I think it would be very handy to use for the front cam switch. It's black and can be easily hidden in the cabin but well within reach for quick use.
If you're interested in one, and don't want to order one from China yourself, I have a few available I can ship out to you now for $10 (batteries included!). If those sell out, I can order more and send them out in two to three weeks. Just PM me for the details.
And if you're looking for the 27A batteries for the A/B/C/D switch remote, I just buy those in bulk for a few bucks from Amazon so I always have a few when I need them: https://www.amazon.com/Loopacell-23-279-MN27-Battery-Pack/dp/B00PSKIAQ8/ I also buy 23A batteries the same way: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G12RLXE (my 8-channel EV-horn remote uses these).
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berkeley_ecar
S 90D (fully loaded) delivered 18 Mar 2017
Thanks for the helpful report, and for sharing your discovery of this helpful device -- I have PMed you separately to buy a few from you.
steinermeister
Member
Does anyone have a camera switcher kit they won't be using? I think I might have ruined mine (thanks to a wonderful family member), and as I believe they are out of stock...please let me know (PM me!)
SCEV
Member
As a heads up, I ended up ordering the below extension and it worked great. Gave me plenty of room to work with, and was able to easily tuck everything away. Highly recommended for anyone having trouble with the length of the cable coming from the MCU.
FAKRA HSD LVDS Z female / male 1.2m Shielded Dacar 535 4-Core Cable for BMW、Benz | eBay
aesculus
Still Trying to Figure This All Out
Is this it? I don't want to disconnect it and find out I broke something else.
BTW how do you disconnect it? I guess I could experiment with the new camera and the extension cable.
aesculus
Still Trying to Figure This All Out
My first step for my AP1 MX was to create a bracket for my front camera on my license plate bracket. I used some 3/4" x 1/16" thick AL bar material. I cut it, bent it and drilled holes to allow the screws to attach to the camera. Note I also pounded down that one bump of the camera mount tab. I then positioned it so it just stuck below my license plate bracket and drilled and tapped holes to receive screws through my brackets. It would probably be better if these were black but I suspect paint would come off in a week and anodizing is out of the question for me.
Up next will be routing the extension cable and the switch if my post above is favorable. If so there looks to be plenty of room just forward of the break in the cable to place the switch.
Up next will be routing the extension cable and the switch if my post above is favorable. If so there looks to be plenty of room just forward of the break in the cable to place the switch.
Is this it? I don't want to disconnect it and find out I broke something else.
BTW how do you disconnect it? I guess I could experiment with the new camera and the extension cable.
View attachment 376197
That does look correct. A great way to confirm is to disconnect it and verify your backup video feed goes black on your MCU.
To disconnect, there is a small tab on top of the connectors. I usually depress it with my finger and pull the connectors apart.
aesculus
Still Trying to Figure This All Out
I disconnected all three cables that looked similar (the blue, black and yellow) and the rear camera kept on displaying.
I went to the other side and pulled the carpet back and found no wires at all. I also pulled the threshold plate up and on the early MX there is a solid frame member under it and no wires to be seen or can fit in there.
I pulled the panel off of the drivers dash end and see no cables in that area at all either.
I guess I can go back and review the video to see if the cable for the early MX is the same on the AP2 cars.
aesculus
Still Trying to Figure This All Out
Can you tell me where it is? I disconnected all three of these cables and the video keeps playing.
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