Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

"Acceleration Boost" option, discussion as to which models and how much quicker

AWD (Non P) - Will you buy the $2k "Acceleration Boost" to get 0-60 mph in 3.9s (from current 4.4s)?

  • Yes, this is what I've been waiting for!

    Votes: 65 7.9%
  • Yes, I want a full uncork to Stealth Performance but this is better than nothing

    Votes: 220 26.7%
  • Yes, for other reasons

    Votes: 14 1.7%
  • No, I only want a full uncork to Stealth Performance

    Votes: 182 22.1%
  • No, I don't want or care to pay for any additional performance

    Votes: 140 17.0%
  • No, for other reasons

    Votes: 44 5.3%
  • I'm not a Non-P AWD owner, but just want to vote

    Votes: 158 19.2%

  • Total voters
    823
  • Poll closed .
This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Show me draggy or vbox results of a P vs LR or LR with AB at anything above 60mph

I did.

Second time I'm mentioning it.

Put it another way... The gap at the end of the 1/8th mile between the two is... 0.36 seconds.... the gap at the end of the 1/4 mile is... 0.34 seconds.
If the AWD was "catching up" to any significant degree at higher speed there'd be more than a 0.02 second difference measured.




or 60-130. You keep referencing 1/4 times and 0-60 times. Above 60 and roll racing where surface and traction limitations are eliminated the story changes comparing the 3 cars.

Not remotely, no- since none of these cars are traction limited.

A P on crappy all seasons runs the same times as on performance summer tires.... (as obviously does an AWD+ that makes less power)
 
Last edited:
Show me draggy or vbox results of a P vs LR or LR with AB at anything above 60mph or 60-130. You keep referencing 1/4 times and 0-60 times. Above 60 and roll racing where surface and traction limitations are eliminated the story changes comparing the 3 cars.

I own a 19 LR with 18's and I have 3 friends with performance 3's (a 19, 20, and 21). I have roll raced all of them (typically 60 to 100 to 110). In every instance its dead even or I pull away especially my friends 21 P. The pre-21 cars are noticeably faster. SOC's are allways within 5% and we work within a 3 mile radius so battery temps are near exact also.

dragtimes also proved this on his video of the AB vs P. Charged at the same place and to the same SOC. Carwow showed a 19 LR catching and pulling away from a 21 P in a roll race as well.

I have a 2019 and have played with a LR boost and seemed dead even up top. I didn't realize that the 2021s were slower...maybe its the crazy heavy Uberturbine wheels? I think the only way you could see if the 2021s were slower is if you put the same wheel/tire setup and do a controlled race.
 
I did.

Second time I'm mentioning it.

Put it another way... The gap at the end of the 1/8th mile between the two is... 0.36 seconds.... the gap at the end of the 1/4 mile is... 0.34 seconds.
If the AWD was "catching up" to any significant degree at higher speed there'd be more than a 0.02 second difference measured.
again provide me with with your supposed data showing draggy or vbox results from a roll at 60 and higher for all 3 cars.

Better yet go race them yourself and see the results.
 
I have a 2019 and have played with a LR boost and seemed dead even up top. I didn't realize that the 2021s were slower...maybe its the crazy heavy Uberturbine wheels? I think the only way you could see if the 2021s were slower is if you put the same wheel/tire setup and do a controlled race.
Its splitting hairs between the pre-21 and 21+ P. Were talking 1/2 to 1 car length from 60 to 100+.

Ubers not including tires are 4lbs more per wheel vs pre-21's. So that is definitely not helping things.
 
again provide me with with your supposed data

I did.

If the AWD+ were faster at higher speeds the 1/8 to 1/4 mile gap would noticeably shrink between the two.

it doesn't.

How do you explain the gap being basically identical at both checkpoints if the AWD is "faster" at speed?

How do you explain the canbus power graphs showing the P is never less powerful than the AWD+ at any time?

How, and where, do you think it's faster since that claim doesn't appear in any measured data and only in human-error-prone youtube 'races'?


Here's the actual power of AWD, AWD+, and P.

wugz.png


Up to about 75 mph the P is noticeably ahead

After that the P is barely ahead (close enough you could call it even for practical purposes) all the way up through the end of the graph near 100 mph.

So how do you image the P ever loses a race regardless of the speed you start from since it never is making less power?

Human error would be the only way that fits the actual data. Different SOC, different reaction times, significant weight differences like passengers, etc.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Lindenwood
So how do you image the P ever loses a race since it never is making less power?

I couldn't care less about canbus figures. I am not going to even start to try to explain to you how any canbus power "estimate" is accurate or not.

I have first hand experience racing 3 different years of P's multiple times as well as numerous other reference points showing how close they are in performance REAL WORLD. Do I have a factory freak or my friends have factory flops somehow making them slower than the rest of the world?

What are your results roll racing other model 3's?.....
 
  • Like
Reactions: Flatbat
I couldn't care less about canbus figures. I am not going to even start to try to explain to you how any canbus power "estimate" is accurate or not.

That's not an estimate dude.

It's literally the power going to the motor

Your personal anecdotes of humans being humans doesn't really change the facts, sorry.


I have first hand experience racing 3 different years of P's multiple times as well as numerous other reference points showing how close they are in performance REAL WORLD

Yes- as pointed out to you in the data after about 75 mph they are virtually identical. Nobody has disagreed with that.

What is not supported by the data is your claim of AWD+ vehicles pulling away from Ps. At any speed. Unless it's an mis-measured test in one of the various ways described.

People are terrible calibration devices. Reliably getting both people to go the exact same speed and hit the accelerator at the exact same moment to the exact same degree is virtually impossible.

This is why we have actual measuring devices.

And all of them show the P is always faster and more powerful. The difference is negligible above ~75, but it's never reversed.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lindenwood
That's not an estimate dude.

It's literally the power going to the motor

Your personal anecdotes of humans being humans doesn't really change the facts, sorry.




Yes- as pointed out to you in the data after about 75 mph they are virtually identical. Nobody has disagreed with that.

What is not supported by the data is your claim of AWD+ vehicles pulling away from Ps. At any speed. Unless it's an mis-measured test in one of the various ways described.

People are terrible calibration devices. Reliably getting both people to go the exact same speed and hit the accelerator at the exact same moment to the exact same degree is virtually impossible.

This is why we have actual measuring devices.

And all of them show the P is always faster and more powerful. The difference is negligible above ~75, but it's never reversed.

Add in the factor of differences in circumference of the tires, weight of wheels and tires, variances in cars, variances is battery degradation, etc. Real world proves you wrong. I dont care what canbus shows. Power output figures on canbus are estimates based off several factors. I have a lot of experience with canbus as well as tuning.

You can continue referencing other peoples data and forum racing till your face turns blue. What are your results roll racing a p vs lr?
 
Add in the factor of differences in circumference of the tires, weight of wheels and tires, variances in cars, variances is battery degradation, etc.

Sure.

None of which change the fact the P is faster all else being equal.

If I beat a corvette in a camaro because the vette has bald tires and compression leaks it doesn't make the camaro faster in general. Likewise the AWD+ is never faster in general than a P. At any speed.

Real world proves you wrong

It really doesn't.

. I dont care what canbus shows.

Clearly.

Power output figures on canbus are estimates based off several factors. I have a lot of experience with canbus as well as tuning.

I think you're mixing up ICE vehicles where they're estimates, and EVs where it's literally the power going to the motors

You have zero experience tuning Tesla canbus because that's not even a thing. All the "tuning" is done by Tesla.
 
So I downloaded the acceleration boost on Friday and did a quick couple drives and thought "well it's faster, but I expected more". So on Saturday I had an opportunity to do an extended drive and yeah, it's a big difference. I don't feel too much difference off the line, but that 20MPH-80MPH, damn this car hauls ass. I suggest to anyone who's on the fence, just do it (plus you have the 48hr return policy)! At first, it might not seem like a huge difference, take it on an extended test drive and you'll fall in love. My previous car was a 2016 Mustang GT, heavily modded and luckily, with the use car shortage, I was able to get $1500 more than what I paid for it used with 8000 miles 4 years ago. After purchasing my Tesla and having it in my garage 1 week after the order (No idea how this happened, cancelled order?), I've never looked back, this Tesla M3 LR +AB is amazing. My only wish is that it had better tires. I have the 19's and while I want the Micheline PS4's that I had on my Mustang, I'm worried about the additional road noise. Other than that, all I can say is WOW!
 
I'm a three month owner of a new Long Range and was considering the Acceleration Boost. I'm seen lots of reviews on the internet about 0 - 60 improvements, but I'm not a traffic lights grand prix type of person and I'm more interested in mid range improvement, such as 30 - 70. Can anyone offer any guidance please.
 
I bought it about a year after purchasing the car. It’s a noticeable improvement in sportiness. Even if you don’t care about launching from lights (which it’s great for), it really helps with overtakes on the freeway/motorway. Final advantage is knowing that you’re faster than the majority of other passenger cars on the road. 😇
 
  • Like
Reactions: texastodd
Reposting for the 7,973th time in the thread since nobody can be bothered to read back a whole 20 posts....

LRAWD2.png




See also this post only 10 posts back with full dyno readings for AWD, AWD+ and P from 0-160 kph (roughly 0-100 mph)

 
I bought it about a year after purchasing the car. It’s a noticeable improvement in sportiness. Even if you don’t care about launching from lights (which it’s great for), it really helps with overtakes on the freeway/motorway. Final advantage is knowing that you’re faster than the majority of other passenger cars on the road. 😇
Right on! I bought AB, got the refund and then bought it again! I immediately noticed the less responsiveness of the accelerator once the AB was no longer there. Also of note was that the steering heft actually went down after I downgraded. I did NOT change the steering effort whatsoever but noticed it was lighter so maybe there is more to this tune than just pure speed.
 
I thought the boost made a nice difference on my MY LR, I think it is even more effective on the 3 LR. Boy does it make this car fun. My 30-70 mph times are less than 3 seconds. The 0-60 times and 30-70 times would beat that of a stock Ford GT.


Which would I rather roll up in the Ford GT of course but I can't fit my spouse and a kid in a car seat in it at the same time if I want to drive.