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Acceleration boost upgrade, no software update needed?

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This evening, I decided to take the plunge, and purchased the acceleration boost upgrade on my phone for my 2022 M3LR. For context, my vehicle sits in my apartment building’s parking garage (no Wi-Fi). When a software update is needed I typically let the car take care of itself while I’m at work as my office as my parking space is in range of my company’s Wi-Fi network. In the past I have connected the car to my iPhone’s data connection via tethering, but rarely.

Back to tonight - I purchase the upgrade and, obviously, am eager to experience the fruits of the damage to my credit card. I get in the car and connect it to my iPhone’s data connection. After a few seconds of the car’s data symbol indicating I’m on Wi-Fi, I start puttering through the settings to see if there’s an available software update. Nothing is showing as available. When selecting the drive settings, I notice that the car’s acceleration setting now has “sport” available (an indicator that the acceleration boost package has been enabled).

Strange, right? As the car hasn’t had a software update since I purchased the upgrade 4-5 minutes ago on my phone.

I check the “software” tab and the vehicle indicates “acceleration boost” package being enabled.

Huh.

I take the car out for a spin and - woah - yes the car is unquestionably accelerating faster!!

What gives?

Perhaps a recent software update placed the upgrade in a local folder, to make the purchase experience quicker, so that the car only had to receive an “unlock signal” from Tesla’s servers once the purchase has successfully executed? The app on my phone did show a disclaimer that the car may take several hours for the software to upgrade itself. But - no update took place.
My car basically rebooted instantly upon purchase whilst on cellular.
Seems it doesn't need an actual 'update', it just changes something then full-resets the car. Once it's back up you're good to go
 
Would recommend driving 3-6 months without the boost. That gives you time to appreciate the LR for the speed it already has.
Then, when you get the boost, it feels like a new car all over again.
Plus you'll be in a better position to feel and appreciate the boost.

It's definitely worth it if you like full-pedal accelerating to 60mph, like for freeway on-ramps or for passing on larger city streets.
 
You paid $2000 to change a line of code

Obviously to each his own but I can't even fathom doing this...0-60 in 4.2 seems pretty prettay prettttaaaay good to me!

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No I was saying a normal LR is 4.2. And 4.2 or 3.7 in my daily driving is the same thing. Now I presume if one is "racing" their M3 :rolleyes: its important.
Ahh gotcha yeah the LR is crazy already as a daily but that little button staring at me saying click here for 3.7 just had to be pressed. I just took a coworker out for a ride at lunch he had no idea they were that fast and smooth.
 
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Would recommend driving 3-6 months without the boost. That gives you time to appreciate the LR for the speed it already has.
Then, when you get the boost, it feels like a new car all over again.
Plus you'll be in a better position to feel and appreciate the boost.

It's definitely worth it if you like full-pedal accelerating to 60mph, like for freeway on-ramps or for passing on larger city streets.
This is what I did. I waited a year.
 
While quicker to 60, there has been over a 0.3 second decrease in my 30-70 passing time. It dropped from about 3.25 (avg) to 2.91 (avg). So you really feel the extra pickup when even on a roll.

The launch isn't as strong as the M3P, and really doesn't feel that much better than the LR w/out boost to about 10 mph, but from there up I notice the difference the most.
 
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Just bought it this weekend myself- having an absolute blast especially with more responsiveness at higher speeds. I found it odd there was no download, but did notice the pedal options now read sport vs chill (previously standard vs chill)
It's just a software option that once you pay to play it's enabled
like FSD you pay it's enabled or the heated rear seats nothing to DL
Your not downloading new firmware for the inverters or something
Your car already has all it needs, it's just set to slow poke mode
Tapping OK, slow poke to.....OMG!! why.. why... did I wait so long
 
While quicker to 60, there has been over a 0.3 second decrease in my 30-70 passing time. It dropped from about 3.25 (avg) to 2.91 (avg). So you really feel the extra pickup when even on a roll.

The launch isn't as strong as the M3P, and really doesn't feel that much better than the LR w/out boost to about 10 mph, but from there up I notice the difference the most.
I guess that's fortunate or MP3 owners would be a bit peeved forking out all that extra $$ just for set of shiny pedals :)
 
I guess that's fortunate or MP3 owners would be a bit peeved forking out all that extra $$ just for set of shiny pedals :)
I debated for a long time about whether to buy the Performance model or not. I originally had the P on order. The more I read about an LR with boost (both 3 and Y), the more it seemed like it was a better option for me. The problem was no availability of a booster car to drive.

So I took a leap of faith and changed my order to the LR version. This was originally for the Y but the sam conundrum at the time. I think there was an 8 or 10k difference at the time. With the MYP you don't even get the track mode so at the really large delta it wasn't a difficult decision as I didn't car about the rest of the "upgrades". I use that term loosely as they really weren't upgrades to me. Now with the delta for the MYP and LR only 5k I might be more inclined to go with the MYP and toss the factory Ubers as they add no value to me and are too heavy.

So when I went to order a 3, the same debate took place in my head. The difference this time was I could actually get track mode but I also had quite a bit of time behind the wheel in my boosted Y. The only thing interesting to me on the M3P vs a booted LR was track mode. While it would be nice to play with it from time to time I really wouldn't use it much.

So again I decided to go with the LR and boost and couldn't be happier. Yes I give up a bit of acceleration right but then the boosted LRs give up nothing to their P counterparts. From a slight roll you might as well be driving the P from an acceleration perspective. I get much better range. The car rides better and I don't have to worry about my wife curbing the wheels as much. :)

If they didn't offer the boost, I would have gone with the P for sure with Model Y. For the 3 it would be a more difficult decision. Really all the P or boost give you with respect to acceleration is quicker 0-60 times. If you hit the throttle at 70, all the dual motor versions (P, LR, LR /w boost) seem the same. Carwow did rollin testing at higher speeds of the models (P, LR, SR+) and the results at higher speeds was interesting. The stock LR was pulling the P at higher speeds.

 
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I'll probably buy it at some point. I'll buy it immediately if they do end up enabling track mode with the upgrade. The only thing that stopped me from buying the performance is the 20" wheels. They are a non starter for me in the northeast.
This was PRECISELY why I didn't get the P as I live in Colorado and do a lot of snow driving...
 
I hate to say it, the all seasons aren't going to do you much better but at least the other wheels and their smaller diameters might give you better/cheaper options. Very low profile tires isn't the way to go for ice and snow anyway.
 
FWIW it's ~3.5 if you measure it the same way they measure the P.

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If the long range and performace share the same motor; is there something specific that is still different that the performace is stil about 0.5 sec quicker? I mean other than the obvious difference such as bigger wheels, suspension and brakes.. and $10,000 more on the purchase price. I think they still have the same battery too.

or maybe there's another software out there that is made for performance model only, that if it's installed on a LR, then it's pretty much a performance model.
 
If the long range and performace share the same motor; is there something specific that is still different that the performace is stil about 0.5 sec quicker?

Software.

That's it.

Note- the only shared the same motor for the first 6-12 months they were made... eventually the non-P was swapped to a less capable rear motor.

or maybe there's another software out there that is made for performance model only, that if it's installed on a LR, then it's pretty much a performance model.


Not pretty much. Literally is.

The original base P had the same brakes, same 18" wheels, same everything physically as the LR AWD model. Only difference was software.
 
I added it before leaving the lot. If figured, if I. Spending the $2k later, why not spend it now and enjoy it that much longer. Kind of like people fixing up their house right before selling it. Should have done the work/spent the coin earlier and enjoyed it themselves.
Knowing Tesla, they'll probably jack the price of this sooner rather than later. IF they can bump Full Self Driving to 12k, they'd probably double the price of boost considering you actually get something of value...