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Any tire inflators compatible with new 16v Li-Ion battery?
- Thread starter pepperoni
- Start date
Good point! The basic message I’m hearing from people responding to this thread is that all of these 12V inflators will work with the 16V battery since they need to be designed to work while an alternator is running. I also haven’t heard from anyone saying their inflator blew a fuse when they ran it off of a 16V battery, so I suppose I just need to go out and buy one!
Watts_Up
Well-Known Member
In fact, for Tesla with 12v battery, when the car sleeping:
- the battery voltage is between 13.5 V and 12.5 V
- when the battery reaches 12.5 V, the DC/DC converter is activated and the battery get charged under 14.5 V for about one hour.
When the car weak up and when driving or when the Sentry mode i on, the the DC/DC converter is activated and the voltage is 13.5 V,
Watts_Up
Well-Known Member
Why not using an inflater designed for 16 V.
The following one can work on battery, but it would be very easy to add a wire and connect it directly to the car 16 V battery,
instead of using the battery of the inflater, which needs to be kept charged otherwise.
Cordless 16V Power Inflator and Air Pump Kit with Case
No, Ohm's Law is only for ohmic loads. And motors aren't ohmic loads.
Well I can't think of any circumstance where the current goes down as voltage goes up. But Ohm's Law describes a linear relationship between voltage and current and with motors, you don't get that.
CaptUAL
Member
. For AC voltages, when you use a step up transformer the amperage on secondary side will be proportionally lower than the amperage on the primary side of the transformer for the same circuit impedance. I.e. when you double the windings on the secondary side as compared to the primary side the secondary side will see twice the voltage and half the current. If you have 10X the windings on the secondary as the primary the voltage will increase by 10X on the secondary side and the current will be reduced to 1/10.
This principle is how AC power is distributed over long distances using high voltage AC power lines with relatively little loss due to resistance.
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Watts_Up
Well-Known Member
This pump is the cheapest and the most reliable:
Keep doubling down, man. Ohm’s law (V = IZ) absolutely works with DC motors, as long as you use impedance (not DC resistance) and account for back-EMF. Not sure what else there is for me to say if you continue to disagree with physics.
Not sure what it is about this thread that has brought out so many people trying to score points on the internet.
Thanks! I’m actively considering that one, since it is sanctioned for the MY by Tesla. I’m unlikely to use the slime repair kit (would prefer to plug) but the inflator looks attractive. I’m glad to hear it is working for you!
Okay, sure. But I'm talking about from the perspective of whatever is feeding voltage into the circuit. Say you're controlling a power source and you have a dial that controls voltage, and the power source tells you what the current is going into that circuit. The circuit is a black box and the only thing you know about it is that it doesn't have a power source in it, and it's composed of passive components only. You turn the dial and crank up the voltage. Can you think of any scenario where you crank the voltage up and the current goes down? If it's feeding a transformer, the primary voltage increases, and the secondary voltage increases, and whatever that secondary voltage is driving takes on increased current, which increases the current in the primary as well.
Of course if you allow active components in the circuit, you could get the behavior that it draws less current with higher voltages. An example would be a computer that controls a lighting system and is programmed to dim the lights if it senses that its input voltage has increased.
Ohm's law only applies if Z is constant for all V. With a motor, it's not. And you just mentioned one reason why: the back EMF.
I have a craftsman inflator. It works in the Tesla 12v outlet, can plug into a standard home 120v outlet and can use a craftsman 20v rechargeable battery. I've used it a lot over the years. Every so often it goes on sale.
Ooooh that looks nice! Not too interested in the cordless feature, but I would assume the DC motor is rated to 20V. Thank you!
I paid $59 but I got it a few years ago.
Also I have the 12v model 3 but I think since it works with a 20v battery it shouldn't matter.
You can buy it. Test it out. Return it to Lowe's if it doesn't work for your car. DeWalt also makes a similar dual mode one that is better but more money.
Nubo
Test Mule
In truth I carried a foot-pump for tire inflation back in the day and actually used it a lot. It always worked.
SageBrush
REJECT Fascism
There are two questions implied in the OP:
1. Will a couple more volts blow up the DC motor in a "12v' device. No
2. Will a couple more volts blow a fuse due to the increase in current ? Very unlikely.
That is the electric answer. The trivial answer is that if Tesla put a '12v' receptacle in these cars that are powered by the li'l LFP, then '12v' devices are fine to use.
1. Will a couple more volts blow up the DC motor in a "12v' device. No
2. Will a couple more volts blow a fuse due to the increase in current ? Very unlikely.
That is the electric answer. The trivial answer is that if Tesla put a '12v' receptacle in these cars that are powered by the li'l LFP, then '12v' devices are fine to use.
Except when theses 12V devices are power inverters. Some models of inverter cannot handle 16V DC input. Also, some Tesla Model Y owners with the new low voltage system (Tesla no longer calls this a 12V system) have experienced issues when connecting trailer lights.
I generally agree with your comments, and am less concerned now than when I started this thread. That said, I do think it is important to pay attention to electrical specs. Many cars on the market have 10a fuses on their aux outlets, which can easily be blown with a 15a inflator. Incidentally, the MY has 15a fuses on these outlets. Plus (as @jcanoe points out above), Tesla specifically warns about power inverters that may not be able to handle 16v. So it’s worth paying attention to these things. I don’t think a 12v marking on the outlet always means “good to go.”
My basic concern was finding a reliable inflator that won’t fail me in an emergency. A blown fuse in the inflator or car could make a bad day worse. Right now, I am leaning toward the Craftsman for a few reasons: 1) the fact that it runs off of a 20V battery means it shouldn’t have any problems with my 16V LV battery, 2) it is reported to draw only 10a at 12v so should be ok with the Tesla 12a continuous current guidance, and 3) it is made by a reputable brand with a 3 year warranty, making it more likely the engineering team designed a good product. (On the last point, I’ve had too many bad experiences with no name products off Amazon to be tempted by some of the cheaper offerings out there.) I am also seeing a few other similar products out there by DeWalt and Black+Decker that look like they could fit the bill too, so I’m still deciding…
Current on a motor is based on the load of the motor (how much pressure is in the tire). Does your Tesla use the same watts at all speeds, slopes and acceleration?
Amp rating on an inflator is usually at the max pressure it can start at.
Motors generally can handle a wide range of voltages.
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