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Any tire inflators compatible with new 16v Li-Ion battery?

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Except when theses 12V devices are power inverters. Some models of inverter cannot handle 16V DC input. Also, some Tesla Model Y owners with the new low voltage system (Tesla no longer calls this a 12V system) have experienced issues when connecting trailer lights.
But we are talking about a compressor motor.

All powered devices have tolerances. ICE cars easily run up to 14.7V from charging system.

So most 12V devices don’t blow out at 14.8V. Because not all cars are in spec either.

16V is pushing it. But most well made electronics or motors will probably handle it fine.
 
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Except when theses 12V devices are power inverters. Some models of inverter cannot handle 16V DC input.
Which models specifically? That's surprising, since power inverters that run off of cars are generally designed to be used with the engine running, and most ICE vehicles will put out at least 14-15V with the engine on.
Many cars on the market have 10a fuses on their aux outlets, which can easily be blown with a 15a inflator.
Which car(s) have 10A fuses on their aux outlets? I've never seen a 10A fuse on an aux outlet. 12A yes, but not 10A.
 
Which models specifically? That's surprising, since power inverters that run off of cars are generally designed to be used with the engine running, and most ICE vehicles will put out at least 14-15V with the engine on.

Which car(s) have 10A fuses on their aux outlets? I've never seen a 10A fuse on an aux outlet. 12A yes, but not 10A.
The Tesla Model Y Owner's Manual now states "For vehicles manufactured after approximately November 2021, power inverters plugged into the low voltage power socket must support 16V DC input to function." You should verify 16V compatibility with any inverted you plan to use.
 
The Tesla Model Y Owner's Manual now states "For vehicles manufactured after approximately November 2021, power inverters plugged into the low voltage power socket must support 16V DC input to function." You should verify 16V compatibility with any inverted you plan to use.
That's just a statement for them to cover their asses. Which inverters are you specifically referring to that either specifically state they can't take 16V or have had issues with that voltage?
 
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That's just a statement for them to cover their asses. Which inverters are you specifically referring to that either specifically state they can't take 16V or have had issues with that voltage?
Not that hard to find with a quick google:
DC input voltage: 10.5-15V

Now whether this actually causes a real world problem really depends on the design. I know for some cheap DC to DC converters they just dump any voltage difference as heat, so a higher voltage than specified can cause it to overheat. Don't know if there is a similar DC TO DC stage for these.
 
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Not that hard to find with a quick google:
DC input voltage: 10.5-15V

Now whether this actually causes a real world problem really depends on the design. I know for some cheap DC to DC converters they just dump any voltage difference as heat, so a higher voltage than specified can cause it to overheat. Don't know if there is a similar DC TO DC stage for these.
Looks like the real world problem would be triggering the shutdown circuitry due to overvoltage. At least on that model.
 
I paid $59 but I got it a few years ago.

Also I have the 12v model 3 but I think since it works with a 20v battery it shouldn't matter.

You can buy it. Test it out. Return it to Lowe's if it doesn't work for your car. DeWalt also makes a similar dual mode one that is better but more money.
Just ordered the Craftsman based on @P3dStealth’s endorsement. It looks like a great unit, but I will certainly report back if I run into any issues.
 
Except when theses 12V devices are power inverters. Some models of inverter cannot handle 16V DC input. Also, some Tesla Model Y owners with the new low voltage system (Tesla no longer calls this a 12V system) have experienced issues when connecting trailer lights.
Incandescent lights are a special case. Their lifespan vs. voltage curves are exceptionally steep.
 
I just have the Tesla one. While I hope to never use the fix-a-flat stuff, having a small compressor will get you out of most jams. I like the elegance of the unit/bag combo.

If you have a screw and a slow leak, just pumping the tire back up should get you the couple miles you need to go to either be safe off the road or to a tire repair shop.
 
You guys are killing me! No no no! Ohm’s law is not for pure resistive loads only, it applies just as well to coil impedance (resistance and reactance) such as a motor coil. At least you’re not claiming that current will go down as I apply more voltage to a DC motor, unlike a few of the other helpful posts here.

You make a good point that on ICE cars, there will be more than 12V on the 12V outlets while the engine is running. And it is reasonable to assume that the EEs designing these inflators have taken this into account. So you are probably right that most or all of these will work just fine at 16V. Still, I wish they would just include a spec sheet stating a voltage range rather than just 12V.
The people claiming current will go down with voltage is correct for a load like an air compressor if the compressor's load is being limited by the resistance to the air being pumped. Because of back emf, a motor can't be modeled as a resistor in this case.

See example of motor resistance vs torque:
13-2-relation-between-armature-resistance-and-torque-dc-motor.png

DC Motors - current, voltage, speed, power, losses and torque relationships - PCB 3D

Sure, if the compressor is not facing resistance, a higher voltage will typically mean more rpms and more current (and more air flow), but this is not the case when there is a load that is resisting your compressor's efforts.

See relation of current vs torque (article also goes into detail how back emf plays its role), you can see for a given current, higher voltage provides more torque, which in turn means that less current is needed for the same torque.
Mar12_13_fig2.jpg

Tutorial: Brushed DC Motors, Part II

Example of how the current draw of a compressor varies with load:
Pic 1 - Pumping to Atmosphere - 30 amps
Pic 2 - Pumping an AT tyre from 1.6 to 2.8 bar - 34 amps
Powering a 12v Air Compressor

Note above assumes the compressor is just wiring the 12V directly to the motor and does not have a motor controller. If it does have a motor controller, it may be constant current or constant speed (or has similar limiters), in which case the analysis changes. It also matters if the compressor has an air tank or not.

Others already pointed out however, 12V air compressors are typically already designed to work in a wide voltage range. If run directly from the battery, it can sag down to 11V. If running off a car that is on, the alternator may be putting out up to 15V. If you buy a compressor for cigarette sockets that has a rated current within the margin given for the socket (12A continuous 16A peak), it should still work fine, because regardless of if the voltage might increase current in certain cases, that would be within the margin.

I would note also, most compressors recommend you keep the engine running when running them, if that higher voltage was bad for the compressor, I imagine they would not make that recommendation.

As noted by others, Tesla's warning is only about inverters, as they are more sensitive to the exact voltage (as discussed above, some have overvoltage detection circuits which will shut down inverter if it detects 16V).
Model 3 Owner's Manual | Tesla
 
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The blurb you quoted does not make sense to me. At 12V, 1000 watts is over 80 Amps.
I would believe 100 watts, maybe even 180 watts for a short period of time from a 12v outlet
Note the 8.4A in the blurb is talking about amps on the AC output side. From the cigarette outlet, no way would you be able to power the inverter at full power for 1000W.

Also for running high power inverters, you typically can't just directly connect it, because they typically have a large capacitor on the input side (you can tell this is the case if it sparks when you try to connect it to a battery). Most of the time you would need a precharge circuit with a resistor to limit current flow while capacitor charges (otherwise you will blow or trip the fuse on the socket and the capacitor will never be able to charge).

I just bought a 1000W inverter recently and built a precharge circuit that limits max current to 2A (then I switch that circuit off after capacitor is charged, which takes less than 5 seconds).

I used this precharge circuit here, with a Off-1-2-Both battery switch and 8 ohm 25W resistor.
Inverter Disconnect Switch with Precharge

I bought a higher power inverter (pure sine at that) because I'm mainly using it for emergencies at home (power company just had an unplanned outage recently although it was only a few hours), and it's more flexible (I have 12V LFP batteries already for my security system that I can use if I have higher power demand).
 
The people claiming current will go down with voltage is correct for a load like an air compressor if the compressor's load is being limited by the resistance to the air being pumped. Because of back emf, a motor can't be modeled as a resistor in this case.
OMG, you’re also going to throw your lot in with the folks who claim that current goes down as motor voltage goes up?! So, I have a compressor happily pumping air with 12V across the leads of the DC motor. Now I step that voltage up to 16V, and the current goes… down?! Because here’s the thing… that compressor is going to be delivering more pressure at a higher motor torque (not lower). And higher torque means more current flowing through the coils, because that’s how motors work.

So no, those people claiming current will go down as we increase input voltage are not correct.

(Wait a minute… it appears you are also claiming that motor torque goes down as motor current goes up. Seriously?! Because that figure you showed with current vs torque is either wrong or seriously out of context. Motor torque goes up with increasing current, not down.)

And I never said a motor should be modeled as a resistor. Some folks here want to take issue with me invoking Ohm’s law, which is ludicrous because it is essential to modeling DC motors. The presence of back EMF does not invalidate Ohm’s law, rather it means the equation needs to include back EMF (Eb), i.e., Vin-Eb = IZ, where I is the motor current and Z is the coil impedance. Of course I am glossing over the complexities of commutation, which varies with brushed vs brushless, trapezoidal vs sinusoidal, two phase vs three phase, etc etc. These all go into the gory details of a motor model, of which Ohm’s Law is the backbone. And by the way, once I include impedance, motor friction, air drag, the motor model becomes a set of differential equations. But none of this changes the fact that motor current will increase as I increase input voltage. Which happens precisely because of Ohm’s Law. Which is the only point I was trying to make way back on Post #8. Which apparently triggered a bunch of people who thought my statement was somehow incorrect, and felt compelled to give me some really strange lessons on electronics.

I’m not sure why I’m bothering to reply to all of these insane posts. I feel like I am being punked.
 
See relation of current vs torque (article also goes into detail how back emf plays its role), you can see for a given current, higher voltage provides more torque, which in turn means that less current is needed for the same torque.
Mar12_13_fig2.jpg

Tutorial: Brushed DC Motors, Part II

By the way, the plots in that article you linked (above) are 100% incorrect, and likely just the product of someone mislabeling the plot lines. If you switch current to speed and speed to current, they would be correct. Here is a link to an article that gets the plot labels correct, showing current proportional to torque.

It appears that in your hasty research, you simply saw the mislabeled figures and extrapolated to an erroneous conclusion. I just have to ask… why did you go through all that effort, with all the plots and links? Just to prove me wrong?
 
The people claiming current will go down with voltage is correct for a load like an air compressor if the compressor's load is being limited by the resistance to the air being pumped. Because of back emf, a motor can't be modeled as a resistor in this case.

See example of motor resistance vs torque:
13-2-relation-between-armature-resistance-and-torque-dc-motor.png

DC Motors - current, voltage, speed, power, losses and torque relationships - PCB 3D

Sure, if the compressor is not facing resistance, a higher voltage will typically mean more rpms and more current (and more air flow), but this is not the case when there is a load that is resisting your compressor's efforts.
Yep. And if you look at the nameplate on a typical AC unit, you'll see two amperage values: RLA and LRA. RLA (running load amps) is the typical current draw when the compressor is in steady state, pumping refrigerant from the low pressure evaporator to the high pressure condenser. But LRA (locked rotor amps) is the current draw when the compressor isn't spinning and there's no back EMF, i.e. the startup current, but also the current if the compressor gets jammed. This will quickly trip the breaker in most cases if the compressor can't start. LRA can be almost 10 times the RLA value. The "short term c" region would correspond to LRA and the 0 torque region would correspond to RLA.