Miztawizord
Member
Just installed the Focal's last night and brackets works as expected. Thumbs up to THX certification. Overall more output and more range.
Did not use the inline crossovers.
Did not use the inline crossovers.
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Miztawizord
Member
yup, I just T-tapped them. I tried using the pins like they were the one of the 7 4" speakers, but yes as stated, the inlet is much larger and won't accept them.
60k car and you used ttaps?!?!?! Not to be insulting but do the install right...
Miztawizord
Member
So if it was a 50k car it would be ok? lol. But yea, I did and it works like a charm (for now). I also ttapped the high level inputs to my lc7i from the subwoofer connection for the audio feed. Everything shrink wrapped and secured. Now, if something were to come loose. To get in the door is a 2 minute job.
Military splice, my friend. I've had way too many cars come in and the failure was due to t-taps.
ElectrekPanda
Member
Congrats! If you don't mind, can post the final parts list and general installation procedure? I know that all these info can be found in this thread but it is difficult to follow it all thru the different turns and back tracking. I am certainly interested in doing this. I think others too would appreciate some kind of summary in one one spot. Thanks in advance!
Miztawizord
Member
Yea, there is loads on info on here and Tesla owners online. Took me a week to filter through everything. Should you go through the same torture?... lol.
Not quite sure if you're asking for a wrap up of just the Focal install or everything else piece by piece as this is just the bracket thread, but I'll provide a cliff note version of the focal's since the others are fairly easy to find.
You will definitely need a bracket for these btw which @flashflooder was kind enough to share his .STL file (I believe daviso has one too, but not sure of fitment). After you obtain that, I would say it's the easiest install out the 3 ( front dash 3 being 1 and the rear doors 2).
Here's the video I checked out to get into the front doors. If the link doesn't work, google tesla model 3 door panel removal =)
You do have to drill a big enough hole for the speakers wire through the bracket and then secure the speaker onto the bracket.
The tweeter just pops out and is fairly simple. I used a glue gun to secure the focal tweeter in place(sorry adrian). There is an .STL files for a proper bracket.
Overall the Focal's are amazing. I had an old box of 2 8's with an alpine amp (200w) I figured I put to use after them being in storage from an old build. After connecting the focal's I just took them out as they didn't do too much. IMO you need at least a 300w sub system back there to provide some justice.
Hope this helps
ElectrekPanda
Member
Yeah, this is the information that I am looking for - just the Focal install for the front door. Thanks a lot!
wstamaria
Member
Before i go and bother @flashflooder, is there a place to download his Door woofer .stl file, or is everyone contacting him directly for permission and the file?
Im definitely willing to print these for people if given permission (no profit, just to help those who don't have printers)
thanks for the awesome work.
Miztawizord
Member
You would have to ask him directly as he doesn't have it up on a site or anything. I don't think he minds the file out there, but out of honor code, seek him out. lol. I haven't seen him post recently, nor following him, but hit me up if you don't have any success.
wstamaria
Member
Thank you @Miztawizord, ill reach out to him.
I'm wondering if there is anyone out there looking to do this mod also and would want to split a set of tweeters, mids, and connectors?
Thanks.
Miztawizord
Member
Also on this train for an infinity reference speaker. Might tackle the rear deck too. lmk peeps.
ElectrekPanda
Member
Hello, everyone! I feel a bit bad for my extended absence from the forum. I was just busy with winter life up here, but things have warmed up and I am back at it all, despite the new pandemic, just to keep things weird. I am very happy to see so many people have jumped on the idea of upgrading the sound in the car and asking good questions. I personally also want to check with @flashflooder that he didn't use the inline crossover provided by focal. I tested the speakers with the crossover personally and I think that it eliminates way too much of the frequencies response, as compared to stock. Also!!! I tested my Door woofer model and it does work as I posted it before, but I decided to drop the speaker back another millimeter just because it was a bit tight on the front. So I have posted that modified STL to my site as well!
I also found a way to more properly crimp plugs and wires for the midrange speakers thanks to a suggestion from @belanger several months ago to check Mouser.com. So I can produce those for people if anyone wants and those will also be on my site. (www.audioliphe.com). The front door woofer plugs are NOT the same, as a couple people have pointed out and the pins are much larger too, so you can't use the same headers. I have ordered from mouser some TE pins that I think may work, as I measure the aperture in the door plug. I also desiged a door plug replica, but I haven't figured out a good way to mount the pins into it yet, so it may be easier to just shove the pins into the stock plug and tape them there. Or splice into the wires themselves.
I would love to hear how the installs are working for everyone of the woofers and other speakers as well! Here are photos of the slightly modified speaker bracket for the woofer, as well as the midrange plugs that you can build from mouser parts (or I can build them for you)
I also found a way to more properly crimp plugs and wires for the midrange speakers thanks to a suggestion from @belanger several months ago to check Mouser.com. So I can produce those for people if anyone wants and those will also be on my site. (www.audioliphe.com). The front door woofer plugs are NOT the same, as a couple people have pointed out and the pins are much larger too, so you can't use the same headers. I have ordered from mouser some TE pins that I think may work, as I measure the aperture in the door plug. I also desiged a door plug replica, but I haven't figured out a good way to mount the pins into it yet, so it may be easier to just shove the pins into the stock plug and tape them there. Or splice into the wires themselves.
I would love to hear how the installs are working for everyone of the woofers and other speakers as well! Here are photos of the slightly modified speaker bracket for the woofer, as well as the midrange plugs that you can build from mouser parts (or I can build them for you)
I haven't installed them in my car yet (though I have tested fitment and they do work) because I lost my screws for the woofer somewhere in the house over the past several months..... so that's sad and I will have to ask Tesla how to get new ones (because I cannot seem to match them to any normal machine bolts in any hardware store). Also, is anyone interested in doing any speakers other than those that we have been working on in the forum so far?
@groovyd did you end up doing anything with the woofers so far? If not, there are a couple of working brackets now.
Also, to @ElectrekPanda and anyone else looking for install instructions, I will be making a video of my own install within the next 2 weeks (I will likely record it this week but then will have to edit it and upload it to my youtube channel).
As a side note, I have NOT put the woofer brackets on my site for sale because printing them is a huge job and takes most of the day for a single bracket (for one door). I am willing to print them for some people by request at whatever the normal rate is for these things online (probably like $50) but there's no way I could produce them on a large scale so just ask me if you don't have a printer and I will see if I have the time to print one up. If you have a printer or a friend who does, just download the STL from my site, print it in PETG filament, and epoxy the two pieces together.
@groovyd did you end up doing anything with the woofers so far? If not, there are a couple of working brackets now.
Also, to @ElectrekPanda and anyone else looking for install instructions, I will be making a video of my own install within the next 2 weeks (I will likely record it this week but then will have to edit it and upload it to my youtube channel).
As a side note, I have NOT put the woofer brackets on my site for sale because printing them is a huge job and takes most of the day for a single bracket (for one door). I am willing to print them for some people by request at whatever the normal rate is for these things online (probably like $50) but there's no way I could produce them on a large scale so just ask me if you don't have a printer and I will see if I have the time to print one up. If you have a printer or a friend who does, just download the STL from my site, print it in PETG filament, and epoxy the two pieces together.
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Welcome back @davitsio, very glad to hear from you!
Just to be clear, you removed ~1mm from ~half of the bracket towards the front of the car? If so, I'll use a small grinder to take some off. Instead of use PETG I went w/ ABS thinking it's a harder material and perhaps better for stronger bass but I honestly don't think it makes any difference
To put the parts together, I scrub with 60 grid sandpaper, used rubbing alcohol to remove any dust and then CA glue. It's pretty straight forward... I just realized I'm missing the metal attachments and screws to secure the speaker in place, I had tons of those in my Dodge caravan that I donated a few months ago.
You mind sharing the part # from mouser and the STL file? As you mentioned, perhaps there's no good way and just pushing/securing the pins in the plug might best option. If the pins makes excellent contact, I would agree on that option.
I glued my bracket just earlier and have just noticed that statement.
Just to be clear, you removed ~1mm from ~half of the bracket towards the front of the car? If so, I'll use a small grinder to take some off. Instead of use PETG I went w/ ABS thinking it's a harder material and perhaps better for stronger bass but I honestly don't think it makes any difference
To put the parts together, I scrub with 60 grid sandpaper, used rubbing alcohol to remove any dust and then CA glue. It's pretty straight forward... I just realized I'm missing the metal attachments and screws to secure the speaker in place, I had tons of those in my Dodge caravan that I donated a few months ago.
You mind sharing the part # from mouser and the STL file? As you mentioned, perhaps there's no good way and just pushing/securing the pins in the plug might best option. If the pins makes excellent contact, I would agree on that option.
Just to be clear, you removed ~1mm from ~half of the bracket towards the front of the car? If so, I'll use a small grinder to take some off. Instead of use PETG I went w/ ABS thinking it's a harder material and perhaps better for stronger bass but I honestly don't think it makes any difference
To put the parts together, I scrub with 60 grid sandpaper, used rubbing alcohol to remove any dust and then CA glue. It's pretty straight forward... I just realized I'm missing the metal attachments and screws to secure the speaker in place, I had tons of those in my Dodge caravan that I donated a few months ago.
I print the bracket in two parts, as it sound like you did, and what I changed was to simply cut the top 1mm off the entire top of the ring of the major base assembly. Basically, I left the top speaker rim part alone as it already stands, but shortened the cylinder of the base part just slightly. To be clear, it does work in the original form I posted back in January (or whenever that was....), it's just that the door trim has a plastic ring that usually meets up with the stock speaker, and it very slightly overlaps the noticeably large diameter of the 8" woofer more than I would like. My suggestion if you are using the original design is to leave the bracket alone and to file down the door trim ring just a millimeter or so all around the circle of it, so that it just barely contacts the new speaker. That would almost certainly be easier.
I can provide the mouser part number but I have learned that the pin is backordered, so I might contact them to see if I can find one with identical dimensions that is actually available right now. I will reach out to them tomorrow to try to find one currently available and also tweak the plug model for the woofers slightly and then post here by the end of the week. if that is not too late for you.
Also, for the metal attachments with the spring clips (I think that's what they are called), I got a whole bunch from crutchfield along with my original Infinity speaker order a year ago. I imagine that they must sell them pretty cheap so maybe you can find some through them?
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