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Cost Comparison (Model S vs. ICE)

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I had a land rover with aluminum body many years ago. The steel parts corroded first. The aluminum oxidized from salt but much slower. One of the questions I had before buying my Roadster was if they were careful to prevent dissimilar metal contact between the carbon fiber panels and metallic fasteners. I was told that the engineers were aware of this potential problem and used grommets anywhere that might be exposed to salt. Now that I have the car, I see that they thought about salt, but not enough (as in PEM fan...).
 
I'm getting a Sig, so I'll have the tech package and theoretically won't need to "hold" the fob or press buttons on it.

Still, things in my pockets seem to to have a low survival rate... keys (still need them to open my house and office), ID badge, iPhone, and other random stuff all seem to age prematurely :)

/Mitch.

Exactly the same for me. Just being in my pocket will beat up the keyfob. Or I could hang it around my neck -- but things in that position *also* get beat up. I'm just hard on objects I'm carrying around.
 
I presume they'll design the car with appropriate coatings, etc., to avoid putting dissimilar metals in contact.

This raises a question though. Is an aluminum car body actually better or worse for corrosion?

In theory, aluminum doesn't corrode as much because its oxide seals the metal, whereas iron oxide is a catalyst for corrosion.

On the other hand, there are other materials spread around on the road, namely salt and in some case salt alternatives. They could have an impact.

Some people I have talked to have claimed that aluminum cars corrode quickly, others say they don't corrode at all. I know only one person with an all-aluminum car, and he doesn't winter drive it. Is there anyone here who can put that question to rest?

aluminium extrusions, fabricators, powder coating and anodising, uk

about aluminium corrosion
 
Accessorize with a "key fob case" :smile:

I'm actually planning to do this.

However, I've discovered on fancy keys that the other source of wear is battery replacement; replace the batteries more than a certain number of times and the plastic parts stop going back together again. :mad: Anyway, the only good way to deal with this is to have extras. The extras will sit, their batteries will die, but they won't be opened up for battery replacement until after my primary key breaks completely, so I'll get a whole 'nother cycle of life out of them.
 
Looking at things basically I really need to think about my 63k Tesla really as a 36k ICE car (Both pre rebates). I know there will be power costs but with flex power time I and GA Power it won’t be much at all.

My Model S will cost 63k
40kWh pack
Tech
Heated Seats
Parcel Shelf

I pay 6% sales tax. So Ileave with a $67.5k total price.

I will then save
$16500 on fuel (5 years, $3500 a year, thanks AmEx yearly reports) with some financing losses
$7500 from the U.S. Federal Government
$5000 from the State of Georgia

That is equal to a 36k Gas car with the same fuel requirements as my current car.

I don’t want to speculate on battery costs (But I imagine they will be less than fuel costs per mile). And I don’t want to speculate on resale value (although I think EVs will be much higher after 100k miles). But as for 5 year cost of purchasing a vehicle the Tesla isn’t way beyond my means. I was would be looking at 32-38k cars anyway. And I have to 5-6 year finance this thing (probably only 5, maybe 4, when I think about the $300 a month I am going to pocket on fuel) anyway.

Right now I really really want the 80kWh pack, but I just can justify that price. When my loan is up I can upgrade to a 120+kWh pack.
 
Maybe I can convice my fiance to get rid of DirecTV and then I can almost finance the 60kWh pack, and get some piece of mind for 4 years down the road when I would start having to worry about the 40kWh pack degrading and putting me into a position where I won't be able to drive 75mph to work and back.
 
Maybe I can convice my fiance to get rid of DirecTV and then I can almost finance the 60kWh pack, and get some piece of mind for 4 years down the road when I would start having to worry about the 40kWh pack degrading and putting me into a position where I won't be able to drive 75mph to work and back.

You must be commuting during non-rush hour times if you're able to get up to 75 mph here in Atlanta.

You also spend a lot on gasoline.

There's also purportedly an advantage on maintenance costs for EVs which you're not factoring in - although that would not be as big a deal in the first 5 years (although you might be racking up a lot of miles).

Depending on your mileage the 60 kWh pack has the added benefit of a warranty with more miles.
 
You must be commuting during non-rush hour times if you're able to get up to 75 mph here in Atlanta.

You also spend a lot on gasoline.

My company moved from Cumberland/Galleria to Kennesaw. I drive N on 75 every moring, and S in the evening. Smyrna/Vinings is a good start point for commuting (except the top end 285). My commute is ~60 miles round trip. I travel some for soccer games/practice and cycling races on the weekends. I did do a Houston drive both the years I looked up(1800 miles RT), and probably 4-6 Charlotte trips each year(500 miles RT). And well I drive in a fashon where I tend to get city mileage on the highway (~24mpg per tank). That and premium fuel all add up. And my car goes when my fiancee and I go anywhere together.

I put 90k miles on my car in 5 years, with 1.5 of that living 2 miles from work. But I also have about 8-10k miles of road trip on my car. About half of those miles I wont drive again, Houston and Tampa are just too far.
 
With his 60 mile commute (assuming 240 work days a year) that would be 72,000 miles in 5 years just going to work and back. No weekend driving, trips or errands. I think it's possible for someone to but on 90,000 miles in 5 years as well.
 
We have en EV driver here in Norway: Lunde that does 200km so about 125 miles on his Think every day. Assuming that is workdays and some driving on the weekends you end up with about 35 000 miles a year on a car with about 100 mile range.

I'd say driving 90 000 miles on a Model S in a year is really hard, in 5 years should be easy for someone used to driving EVs :)

That does not imply it's normal or an expected amount, but that is a different issue.

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