Hopefully I answered most questions in the video...let me know if you have anymore.
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Hopefully I answered most questions in the video...let me know if you have anymore.
C141medic
Active Member
Some 8 cameras on this small car.
And one needs to pay (material + install) 1100 $ to install 2 more?
I value "security" and by all means Tesla should delay my following idea just like they have postponed M3 Wifi (other than connecting to Tesla Wifi)...
But ..
Won't it look complete if some of the cameras can stream to the App and to front touchscreen on Tesla?
We can at least get an alert based on motion on some of the camera or if car detects a hit or touch?
(Disclaimed - did not search thru all the forums or read up this thread - in case this is a;ready answered)..
And one needs to pay (material + install) 1100 $ to install 2 more?
I value "security" and by all means Tesla should delay my following idea just like they have postponed M3 Wifi (other than connecting to Tesla Wifi)...
But ..
Won't it look complete if some of the cameras can stream to the App and to front touchscreen on Tesla?
We can at least get an alert based on motion on some of the camera or if car detects a hit or touch?
(Disclaimed - did not search thru all the forums or read up this thread - in case this is a;ready answered)..
With the luck I've had with hit-and-runs, I've been running my dash cam off of a normal mobile battery bank. However I was not comfortable with how hot it was getting in the car so I bit the bullet and hardwired it to the 12v battery today. Running a Blackvue 750S 2-channel with a 3-amp fuse and a convenient switch to turn the camera off at home or whenever I don't need it on. Hopefully this helps prevent and doesn't just delay the battery service warning.
If this fails I'll probably go to the new Cellink/Blackvue batteries. Will report back.
If this fails I'll probably go to the new Cellink/Blackvue batteries. Will report back.
Jason Bourne
Member
To all the people who have hooked up a dashcam directly to the 12V battery and then the car has thrown the error/alert:
Once the error/alert occurs, if you disconnect the power connection at that point, does the error/alert go away or does it remain until you take it to Tesla Service and they have to clear it with a code?
Once the error/alert occurs, if you disconnect the power connection at that point, does the error/alert go away or does it remain until you take it to Tesla Service and they have to clear it with a code?
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
There's a persistent 12V connection behind the speaker grille on the S. Its a black four wire connector using only three wires. Outside wire is 12V (the color of the wire varies with some Model S's) and the black wire is ground. (The other wire is less than 12V, so ignore it.)
I've been using this source for more than two years on my S's to power first a DR650-2CHn then a DR750S-2CH. Never caused a battery issue. The original intent of the connector/power was needed in EU for a intrusion detection device that was necessary in EU (but not in US), so I have been told by Tesla folks. I can only guess, but maybe the Blackvue matches the power requirement of the detection device close enough not to trigger a warning/fault/error that a direct 12V battery can. ???
I've been using this source for more than two years on my S's to power first a DR650-2CHn then a DR750S-2CH. Never caused a battery issue. The original intent of the connector/power was needed in EU for a intrusion detection device that was necessary in EU (but not in US), so I have been told by Tesla folks. I can only guess, but maybe the Blackvue matches the power requirement of the detection device close enough not to trigger a warning/fault/error that a direct 12V battery can. ???
I have a blackvue 750s that I bought well before my Model 3.
I've been waiting for basically a "final" solution on how people are setting these up.
It looks like there are 2 solutions, one to connect to the 12V (with possibly getting an error from the car)
The other as getting one of the external batteries made for dashcams (expensive).
My question now is, if i get the cameras installed without having a solution for powering when the car is off, will it be easy to then add that solution when I'm comfortable with it, or would that be a mess to do?
Is connecting to the 12v a drastically different setup then connecting to the cigarette lighter via Cellink Neo or other?
I've been waiting for basically a "final" solution on how people are setting these up.
It looks like there are 2 solutions, one to connect to the 12V (with possibly getting an error from the car)
The other as getting one of the external batteries made for dashcams (expensive).
My question now is, if i get the cameras installed without having a solution for powering when the car is off, will it be easy to then add that solution when I'm comfortable with it, or would that be a mess to do?
Is connecting to the 12v a drastically different setup then connecting to the cigarette lighter via Cellink Neo or other?
Jason Bourne
Member
You basically summarized where I'm at. I have a 750S 2CH that I am going to install and I've been wrestling with how to power it. I want to ultimately have it constantly powered but I'm waiting to see how things shake out for a 12V constant source that is proven to not produce issues/errors.
So I've decided that for now, I'm going to plug it in to the switched cigarette lighter in the center console so at least I'll have it while driving. Running the powercord cleanly from under the dash above the front passenger's feet (which is where I plan to stash all of the extra cables) shouldn't be a big deal. It's easy to take off the side trim pieces from the center console and run the power wire down to the back cubby - this video shows how. When/if there is a "final solution" for constant 12V power, then my wire runs are already near the firewall gromet to get to the 12V battery. All the other works I did for installation (placing the cameras, running the wires from the cameras to under the dash above front passenger's feet) will still be useful work.
Are you comfortable wiring it up yourself?
My hardwire set up is very straightforward with nothing exposed besides the switch under the glovebox. All the extra soldering work I did was to add a bunch of quick disconnect points for easy removability/maintenance/modularity. Didn’t need to make any permanent or obvious changes to the car . And of course since that’s the DIY solution right now you can customize it to your needs.
If I ultimately need to install the battery, I figure I would stick it under the passenger seat and get creative with the wiring. But it shouldn’t be too difficult.
No, I'm terrible at these type things.
I don't mind paying for the install, I kind of mind at the moment paying $300 for what's essentially a 6,000 mah battery.
I agree that it’s definitely too expensive, but it is a nice battery. It’s a 12.8V 6,000mah (76.8Wh) which is actually comparable to a 21,000mah power bank you’d get for your phone.
Also it’s not a normal Li-ion battery, it’s a Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePo4) which won’t explode in a hot car, wears down at a much slower pace, and can charge from 0-100% in 30-60min.
So yeah it’s overpriced but it’s not THAT overpriced, especially considering it’s also the only guaranteed safe way to power a camera continuously in a Model 3 right now.
Jason Bourne
Member
I installed my BlackVuew 750S-2ch this weekend. For now, I plugged in to the cigarette lighter. All the cables and cord tuck neatly out of the way, but I ran the cord for the rear camera under the bottom door sills - not the headliner. I wanted to stay away from the airbags, just in case.
A little disappointed that you cannot flip the video orientation 180degrees on the front camera so that limited my placement options a little bit on the windshield. I put the camera in the middle of the glass, under the AP camera housing.
A little disappointed that you cannot flip the video orientation 180degrees on the front camera so that limited my placement options a little bit on the windshield. I put the camera in the middle of the glass, under the AP camera housing.
comec0rrect
Member
I plan on doing this in the future too! Havent watched your video yet, but can you slip out the old camera and plug-and-play the new one? Any fit issues with the 750s housing in the swap?
It's about the same...though I am curious to see what the power draw is between the two. I still yet to run my Ultra Battery down to 0.
Yea..it is a simple swap with the 750S..same housing and cables. The only difference is that the 900S housing says 4K on it and has a golden outline...but as far fitting it in...the front/rear are the same.
Agreed I got the blackvue 750s dual cameras last week when there was a 15% eBay coupon for a total of $248 for brand new cameras. I feel like the battery pack is way too expensive at nearly $300. I feel like I should have just gotten a cheaper camera and plugged into the cigarette lighter. Wouldn't get parking mode but would get the job done while driving and save a ton of money. It's a wonderful car but I don't think I could justify 1k+ for a dash cam setup after install and all.
My insurance deductible is $1k so I look at it this way...if it saves me once it pays for itself
