You have as many miles and same model as I. The battery is fairly resilient in my opinion, I logged off last night thinking "its probably not actually dead". Mine "died" back in 2015 and i just hooked it up to a tender and im still here 5 years later.
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You have as many miles and same model as I. The battery is fairly resilient in my opinion, I logged off last night thinking "its probably not actually dead". Mine "died" back in 2015 and i just hooked it up to a tender and im still here 5 years later.
bigvikefan
Member
BlueOvalFan
Member
Is there a Diagram showing where this located...the Forward Junction Box on a 2015 MS Dual Motor.
BlueOvalFan
Member
This is a $hit ton of work to get to...or so it seems.
Forward Junction Box (Remove and Replace)
I think the gen1/2 dc/dc removal was by far Simpler.
Forward Junction Box (Remove and Replace)
I think the gen1/2 dc/dc removal was by far Simpler.
BlueOvalFan, I don't know what car that is but it's not a gen 2 MS up through 2016.
For me (I blew the 12v charger fuse by using an uncompromising external charger, '15 P85D) it's remove the two struts, the wiper assy, move the air tank to the -right-, and remove the FWJB's cover to get at the fuses. According to the SM you don't have to actually remove the FWJB to replace the fuses as long as you don't have any bones in your arms and can see around corners. I'll prob tackle this next Sunday.
BlueOvalFan, I don't know what car that is but it's not a gen 2 up through 2016.
For me (I blew the 12v charger fuse by using an uncompromising external charger, '15 P85D) it's remove the two struts, the wiper assy, move the air tank to the -right-, and remove the FWJB's cover to get at the fuses. According to the SM you don't have to actually remove the FWJB to replace the fuses as long as you don't have any bones in your arms and can see around corners. I'll prob tackle this next Sunday.
BlueOvalFan
Member
Sounds interesting, please be sure to snap some pictures and the most difficult part of the job. Would be interesting since we have the same car.
So tackled pulling my Gen1 DC-DC today for the Air Conditioning fuses:
I initially tried a razor blade around the edges, tapping it in with a hammer, but it didn't pernitrate deep enough. Finally I pulled out my oscillating tool with a scraper blade:
Good news: it made very short work of getting the cover off without bending ut up. Bad news: I severed the HV literlock loop wires on the A/C connecter, which is very close to the edge:
However, sure enough it was the fuse:
So, now I just need to fix the interlock connections and seal it back up. Any thoughts about how to repin this connector?:
I _might_ be able to solder the leads back on, but I didn't leave myself much to work with...
I initially tried a razor blade around the edges, tapping it in with a hammer, but it didn't pernitrate deep enough. Finally I pulled out my oscillating tool with a scraper blade:
Good news: it made very short work of getting the cover off without bending ut up. Bad news: I severed the HV literlock loop wires on the A/C connecter, which is very close to the edge:
However, sure enough it was the fuse:
So, now I just need to fix the interlock connections and seal it back up. Any thoughts about how to repin this connector?:
I _might_ be able to solder the leads back on, but I didn't leave myself much to work with...
The yellow piece in the mating side is likely the locking mechanism for the small pins. Need to pull that out, then there is probably a plastic catch to move to extract the pins. After they are out, should be able to solder, heat shrink, and reinstall.
For replacement parts, may be a Yazaki connector (look for arrow logo).
For replacement parts, may be a Yazaki connector (look for arrow logo).
I've tried releasing the pins in several different ways with my dental tools similar to other pinned connectors, and can't find the trick with this one... admittedly I only spent about 5 mins with it before I had to pack it up.
I'll look for part #'s, and thanks for the lead on it maybe being a Yazaki...
I'll look for part #'s, and thanks for the lead on it maybe being a Yazaki...
Yep that is something that Electric Garage made a big point about when showing how to open these up in their video:
So the way many work (some types have the locking feature as part of the pin):
First pull the yellow lock tab toward you (may come out entirely). This allows the retention tab to move.
Now, there is likely a plastic tab on the top or bottom pointing toward the connection side that you can either gently move away from pin from the connection side, or with a thin implement from the wire side. Looks like wire side would work with this one. A pick will lift the locking ramp up and let you pull the pin. You may need to push the wire/pin toward the mating side to allow the tab to release.
So, got a chance to dive back in to this. Hopefully this will help any other idiots like me that manage to damage the HVIL wires opening up a GEN1 DC-DC converter:
So as is the case with many similar connectors (and @mongo pointed out), the pins in the connector are held in by the yellow retaining clip. I was able to get an eletronic pick in there and pry it up... but it took a little doing:
Once that was released, the leads & pins came out the back side with a firm tug:
Not much wire left to work with:
But enough to get a good solder splice:
Shrink tube it back up:
Finished product:
Reinsert pins with index holes aligned with ridges on retaining clip, and then press clip back in to place:
Repaired connector leads:
A couple of other points to keep in mind:
- If you are replacing both 40A fuses, replace the bottom one before you re-attach the orange A/C connector back to the case (or remove it if you didn't already... it's a 7mm socket on the nuts).... much easer access to the fuse clips.
- zip tie all the leads back up before closing up the case
Next step: get the rest of the gasket material scraped off and seal her back up...
So as is the case with many similar connectors (and @mongo pointed out), the pins in the connector are held in by the yellow retaining clip. I was able to get an eletronic pick in there and pry it up... but it took a little doing:
Once that was released, the leads & pins came out the back side with a firm tug:
Not much wire left to work with:
But enough to get a good solder splice:
Shrink tube it back up:
Finished product:
Reinsert pins with index holes aligned with ridges on retaining clip, and then press clip back in to place:
Repaired connector leads:
A couple of other points to keep in mind:
- If you are replacing both 40A fuses, replace the bottom one before you re-attach the orange A/C connector back to the case (or remove it if you didn't already... it's a 7mm socket on the nuts).... much easer access to the fuse clips.
- zip tie all the leads back up before closing up the case
Next step: get the rest of the gasket material scraped off and seal her back up...
Attachments
One note: the yellow piece isn't the primary lock, it ensures the real lock stays in place (terminal position assurance TPA). The terminal lock is a little tab that catches on the pin. When it it is released, the terminals slide right out without much/any force.
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