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Slightly unrelated but my second-row seats just malfunctioned and are inoperable being stuck at a 45-degree angle, so looks like I'll be without my car for a few days. Apparently this is a somewhat known issue with the 7-seaters.
 
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Hi All,

My pickup is tomorrow morning and FedChoice has not wired the loan amount to Tesla yet. How to get this sorted out?

I uploaded signed mvpa (8th page) and payment instructions doc. Anything else needed?

Appreciate any inputs.
I reached out to them this morning to confirm everything is ready to go when my vin gets here. And yes as someone already mentioned, it's best to call (301-699-6100). I messaged them and no one responded. After they get the MVPA, they'll wire the money within 24h. Something to keep in mind and not schedule a pickup too early.

I was able to get the 3.99% held until 12/31. At current rate that saved me about $2700 over 5y!
 
Is this sorted out for you? My pick up is tomorrow and FedChoice has not responded to my messages at all.
Yes.. Fedchoice is amazing for me. They are responding super fast and waiting for me to docusign paperwork closer to delivery. I've just been messaging them through that portal.

My EDD is 12/14-12/20 but I just spoke with an SA and they said my Tesla is scheduled for delivery on 12/08 BUT hasn't been picked up by a transporter yet so that might change a little.
 
It was an overcast day so that may have played a role in how dark it looks?!? But it's not a "bright" red in my opinion regardless of lighting. Probably the darkest red I've owned, and I too have had red German cars.

My Brilliant Red Audi
48806036748_26a25b8437_b.jpg


My Red Jetta TDI Sportswagen
ajK7CXG.jpg


Red BMW 328d
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The BMW is probably closest in color to my MX.
My MKZ is probably closet to my MX
 

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It is almost time for me to graduate from this thread, but I would appreciate help or point to the right thread on couple of items.
  1. I got the wheel alignment done at a local (highly rated) shop, I have no clue how to read these values and how bad the wheel alignment was previously other than seeing a lot of reds, I have attached the picture. The alignment was done at the 'Low' suspension setting. I saw on the shudder thread that it is better to keep the suspension at the 'medium' setting but it just does not seem to hold that setting. It just keeps returning to Low. Is there a way to force it to default to medium? If it defaults to medium will the wheel alignment, I just did be useless?
  2. I got my license plates mailed to me, but there are no mounting screws anywhere, the shop that did the alignment said they are not able to mount the license plates as they screws are not standard, they also said they are not able to mount the front license bracket because they need to drill holes and they are not comfortable doing that. I have scheduled a mobile appointment for this, it gave me a $71 estimate but also indicated that I will not be charged as this was under warrenty. But, just weird why the process is not simple, provide us with the right screws and pre drilled holes and save a trip!
1701469547783.png
 
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It is almost time for me to graduate from this thread, but I would appreciate help or point to the right thread on couple of items.
  1. I got the wheel alignment done at a local (highly rated) shop, I have no clue how to read these values and how bad the wheel alignment was previously other than seeing a lot of reds, I have attached the picture. The alignment was done at the 'Low' suspension setting. I saw on the shudder thread that it is better to keep the suspension at the 'medium' setting but it just does not seem to hold that setting. It just keeps returning to Low. Is there a way to force it to default to medium? If it defaults to medium will the wheel alignment, I just did be useless?
  2. I got my license plates mailed to me, but there are no mounting screws anywhere, the shop that did the alignment said they are not able to mount the license plates as they screws are not standard, they also said they are not able to mount the front license bracket because they need to drill holes and they are not comfortable doing that. I have scheduled a mobile appointment for this, it gave me a $71 estimate but also indicated that I will not be charged as this was under warrenty. But, just weird why the process is not simple, provide us with the right screws and pre drilled holes and save a trip!
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You have pretty significant negative camber (-2) in the rear when low post alignment. That will lead to inner tire wear real fast. Those cannot be adjusted so you’ll need to get some aftermarket shims (cheap option) or camber arms (expensive option).
 
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You have pretty significant negative camber (-2) in the rear when low post alignment. That will lead to inner tire wear real fast. Those cannot be adjusted so you’ll need to get some aftermarket shims (cheap option) or camber arms (expensive option).
I assumed their software downloads the factory specs and then uses them, does that mean Tesla specifies -2 for MXLR?
 
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Those cannot be adjusted so you’ll need to get some aftermarket shims (cheap option) or camber arms (expensive option).
I am beginning to understand a little after searching for this. If I am understanding correctly, because camber cannot be adjusted with what Tesla provides out of the gate, I am stuck with whatever camber is present and, in this case, it seems quite severe (I saw some with -1). If I want to save my tires, I am better off installing shims or camber arms. I may just have to go back to the shop and ask them to install. Could you please point to the right links?
 
I assumed their software downloads the factory specs and then uses them, does that mean Tesla specifies -2 for MXLR?

Tesla software defaults to low ride height to minimize damage to the front CV suspension parts. This was a design flaw that Tesla cannot fix.

Options are Macsboost shims for $250-400. I’m getting mine from this guy named Thadeus Strong from a FB group called Tesla Plaid Performance for $60.
 
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Tesla software defaults to low ride height to minimize damage to the front CV suspension parts. This was a design flaw that Tesla cannot fix.

Options are Macsboost shims for $250-400. I’m getting mine from this guy named Thadeus Strong from a FB group called Tesla Plaid Performance for $60.
Are you buying used or he has equivalent version for $60?