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DIY Power Lift gate for Tesla Model S Walkthrough Video

Discussion in 'Model S: Interior & Exterior' started by BigTonyTones, Jan 30, 2017.

  1. Mokuzai

    Mokuzai Member

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    Not concerned about closing with the fob myself, but very interested in what you can find about the resistance for obvious safety reasons.
     
  2. hungyip84

    hungyip84 Member

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    Let me give an update to everyone here.

    The new wiring harness would improve the situation a little bit, but I still suggest the manufacturer to increase the length of the cable of the poles, just like V1.

    We did a install for our customer today, the anti-pinch work only in the beginning. Once the closing reach about 2/3, it no longer work. Also, we confirm that the key fob closing is not working as in V1. I have communicated with the manufacturer, and they think there's a problem in the initialization process. We talked with them side by side on the phone, and they are going to send come technicians over to look at it. Hopefully there will be a solution soon.

    The new button is not as good as the old one, I also made the suggestion to them. They agreed that they will eventually switch back to the old button design.
     
  3. hungyip84

    hungyip84 Member

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    Besides, is anyone going to give the foot sensor a try?
     
  4. miken79

    miken79 Member

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    I got the new controller box from Fredrico finally and have a working system. Yay! Now I just need to get the right connectors so I can wire up the factory button.
     
  5. miken79

    miken79 Member

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    For anyone else that might be a little shy of just wiring this up. Here is how I wired the factory button on the v2 kit.

    IMG_20171027_141742.jpg IMG_20171027_141735.jpg

    From left to right on the button. From the connector with the button in the box go Green/Black/Purple.
     
  6. Mokuzai

    Mokuzai Member

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    Does your button actually light up? I have them wired in that order but the button itself doesn't actually light up. Everything else works tho...wonder if I got a defective light.
     
  7. miken79

    miken79 Member

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    It seems there isn't a light on it. Mine looks painted on
     
  8. Mokuzai

    Mokuzai Member

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    I thought that too till I looked at another car, the factory button definitely lights up.
     
  9. Maranaz

    Maranaz Member

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    Just checked my OEM Liftgate button, it doesn’t light up either.
    Perhaps we have wired them incorrectly. I copied Miken 79 instructions.
     
  10. Maranaz

    Maranaz Member

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    Hi Hungyip84,
    Did the technicians ever come and sort out keyfob, and antipinch problems on the v2 power liftgate.
    By the way I have taken a punt on the foot sensor, but not arrived yet.
     
  11. hungyip84

    hungyip84 Member

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    They are figuring it out, and I will keep you guys posted.

    Installed another car using the new wiring yesterday. Still not perfect but there's some improvement. I have already gave my feedback and they will release the final version of the wiring harness soon.

    Keep us posted on the foot sensor thing.
     
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  12. Maranaz

    Maranaz Member

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    #192 Maranaz, Nov 7, 2017
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2017
    Hi,
    I have just received the footsensor from autoease,
    It came in small brown box, and included a reasonable if non detailed set of instructions.
    BE713E40-44BE-4D8D-8636-A0E115C7AE54.jpeg D46EC73C-7B38-4FE4-B369-1A3F96361777.jpeg
    The sensor was a neat black box with attached cable.
    1FD4ED0A-A724-477D-A449-913FBF94B8C3.jpeg
    The sensor needs to be screwed to the underneath of the Tesla behind rear bumper, with provided self tapping screws.
    The cable needs to be run from the sensor into the boot ( trunk) area. I haven’t looked to see if there are any handy holes in underneath ( rubber grommets) to enable easy cable entry into boot without drilling an extra hole.
    The cable from the sensor is then attached to the supplied harness.
    962B0A09-4EC8-4B26-8E33-C013FEE8EA92.jpeg
    This consists of four wires, 3 in a single cable with strpped wire at the other end, and a long green separate wire.
    The 3 wires in the harness are black for earth, yellow for constant 12volt supply, and red for ACC, from further investigation this means a switched 12 volt supply that is only on when car is on.
    We know where to tap a constant 12 volt supply from the power liftgate installation, hopefully one of the other wires in the Tesla sockets is for switched 12 volts.
    The green wire needs to be connected to the liftgate button, which wire on the button will need investigation.
    The kit also includes some tapping connectors, some screws, and a label to stick on the bumper.
    67ABC599-202E-4401-B583-F43948DC73AF.jpeg
    The installation does not look too daunting but does mean removing the same panels as for the liftgate installation, and having had a hard time replacing the large liftgate panel, I think I shall wait a while for the scars to heal further, before attempting an install.
    Please see attached photos.
     
  13. Mokuzai

    Mokuzai Member

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    When I installed my dashcam I had to remove the panel again. I figured out a trick that made it pretty easy. The clips near the window closest to the front of the car like to pop back out so once I got one side clipped in (I did passenger side first) I replaced the screw on that side to hold things together while clipping in the other side.

    Using this technique I was able to replace the panel without any assistance and it was fairly simple.
     
  14. AMPUP

    AMPUP Member

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    There is a button harness in the trunk area on the left hand side (as you look in behind the carpet wheel liner) that serves for the button available to passengers in the third row seats, I would think you could tap into that as well as the opposite side for all the power etc (same pace you tapped into for the liftgate). If you remove the trunk carpet there are flaps/holes that you can run the wire out of the car (these are like air/pressure vents on each side of the trunk behind the carpet).
     
  15. Maranaz

    Maranaz Member

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    Just had a thought on how to intercept the liftgate button wire without having to remove the large panel at all. If I can trace the appropriate wire at the control box end, then the whole installation can be done in thenboot (trunk) area.
     
  16. Maranaz

    Maranaz Member

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    Hi AMPUP,
    Just read your comments after I had written mine.
    Your idea sounds good. Is this an actual button or a socket there in case you have the third row of seats.
     
  17. AMPUP

    AMPUP Member

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    It’s a harness that the plug connects to, harness is there on all cars
     
  18. hungyip84

    hungyip84 Member

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    Update: today got replied from the manufacturer. The remote control can't close the trunk bug can be solved by cutting the yellow wire as shown in the picture (the leftmost wire).
     

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  19. Maranaz

    Maranaz Member

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    Hi Hungyip84,
    Good news on the remote fob, but I don’t recognise the wiring in your photo. Could you elaborate where in the harness the two sockets shown go.
    Thanks
     
  20. Mokuzai

    Mokuzai Member

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    It's the trunk latch wire, he just has the sleeve removed.

    Guess that rear hatch panel is coming off anyway! Think I'll wait till we hear a definitive answer on the resistance sensor ability before I go in there to cut that wire.

    Also...100th post!

    Trunk Latch Wire.jpg
     

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