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Do I have the shudder of death? 2020 Raven LR

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Definitely not a permeant fix and you will be denied service for this at present time until there is a permanent fix.

It IS the permanent fix....at least that's what Tesla claims. Whether it actually stays fixed for everyone or not is yet to be seen.

My death rattle hasn't returned in my car in 43K miles after the last CV half shaft replacement and I don't have the new fix but I did lower the car by 1" to reduce the CV joint angle by 3.6 degrees.
 
  • Disagree
Reactions: boonedocks
I have the same shudder as in the video at the beginning of thread in a 2017 100D. The first time I noticed it was the first drive after pickup up the car from service after the clevis mount replacement. I turn around and drove with a tech but could not reproduce it. I tried recently to show the tech again but couldn't reproduce at that time. Tech saw my blackvue and told me to bring the video of it next time, will try that.
 
It IS the permanent fix....at least that's what Tesla claims. Whether it actually stays fixed for everyone or not is yet to be seen.

My death rattle hasn't returned in my car in 43K miles after the last CV half shaft replacement and I don't have the new fix but I did lower the car by 1" to reduce the CV joint angle by 3.6 degrees.

Not for Raven models. Which is the model(s) I was referring to.
 
  • Disagree
Reactions: sorka
Just took my 2020 Performance Model X in for a shudder issue at heights above VERY LOW (then came home and found this thread). Technician said he did notice the problem (even though they are not currently doing test drives for some reason). He said it was a known issue and was the Raven Drive unit. There is no fix yet and assured me it posed no safety issue. Soooo. no fix for Raven yet.....It kinda takes the fun out of the car. I took delivery the day after Christmas and did not notice the issue until mid April, and then only on Very High (When I pull out of my neighborhood and accelerate on the main road, it was still on high for the speed bumps). I wasn't overly concerned, since it didn't happen on lower settings. Since then it has started to work its way down the suspension heights. Now it is pretty pronounced on Standard height and is detectable on low. When you pay an extra $20,000 for the Ludicrous, you really want to accelerate hard every now and then. Now, I make sure it is always on low when going over 25 mph, but I feel like I am going to break something if I punch it. They really need to fix this fast.
 
It IS the permanent fix....at least that's what Tesla claims. Whether it actually stays fixed for everyone or not is yet to be seen.

My death rattle hasn't returned in my car in 43K miles after the last CV half shaft replacement and I don't have the new fix but I did lower the car by 1" to reduce the CV joint angle by 3.6 degrees.

@sorka, why did you make the drive shaft angle change? I'm interested if you did testing or just followed gut instinct.

I think there is a very good chance that too much movement in the mounts which will be worse at extreme suspension height, puts too much load on the CV joint innards and deform either the bearings or the casing. Once deformed the bearings will tend to not move freely and you end up with tendancy towards judder and vibration.

If the CV joint / shaft angles are similar between models then no reason there won't be same problems too.
 
@sorka, why did you make the drive shaft angle change? I'm interested if you did testing or just followed gut instinct.

I think there is a very good chance that too much movement in the mounts which will be worse at extreme suspension height, puts too much load on the CV joint innards and deform either the bearings or the casing. Once deformed the bearings will tend to not move freely and you end up with tendancy towards judder and vibration.

If the CV joint / shaft angles are similar between models then no reason there won't be same problems too.

The angle reduction is a result of me lowering the car 1" to the level that it used to be before they raised the car 1" in 2014 to try and mitgate battery strikes from road debris.

This is why Tesla tells you to put it on the lowest setting during hard acceleration. The 1" turns out to be about a 3.6 degree reduction in the angle of the CV joint. The larger the angle, the less torque it can take before deforming.
 
The angle reduction is a result of me lowering the car 1" to the level that it used to be before they raised the car 1" in 2014 to try and mitgate battery strikes from road debris.

This is why Tesla tells you to put it on the lowest setting during hard acceleration. The 1" turns out to be about a 3.6 degree reduction in the angle of the CV joint. The larger the angle, the less torque it can take before deforming.
Thanks.

Pretty lame that they don't bother swapping damaged parts even if their design makes it possible / likely the same might / will happen again. And having a heavily loaded and damaged CV joint is of course a potential safety issue. I wouldn't drive a car with a noticeable fault since I let one go too long to the point of self destruction.
 
Thanks.

Pretty lame that they don't bother swapping damaged parts even if their design makes it possible / likely the same might / will happen again. And having a heavily loaded and damaged CV joint is of course a potential safety issue. I wouldn't drive a car with a noticeable fault since I let one go too long to the point of self destruction.

I had mine replaced 4 times. The 4th time stuck after I lowered the car within 500 miles of getting that last replacement.
 
Just took my 2020 Performance Model X in for a shudder issue at heights above VERY LOW (then came home and found this thread). Technician said he did notice the problem (even though they are not currently doing test drives for some reason). He said it was a known issue and was the Raven Drive unit. There is no fix yet and assured me it posed no safety issue. Soooo. no fix for Raven yet.....It kinda takes the fun out of the car. I took delivery the day after Christmas and did not notice the issue until mid April, and then only on Very High (When I pull out of my neighborhood and accelerate on the main road, it was still on high for the speed bumps). I wasn't overly concerned, since it didn't happen on lower settings. Since then it has started to work its way down the suspension heights. Now it is pretty pronounced on Standard height and is detectable on low. When you pay an extra $20,000 for the Ludicrous, you really want to accelerate hard every now and then. Now, I make sure it is always on low when going over 25 mph, but I feel like I am going to break something if I punch it. They really need to fix this fast.

i have kept an ongoing dialogue with my service center and as you have noted there is no permanent fix for Raven models for this issue as of yet despite the responses above stating otherwise.

I have almost 40k miles on my Raven SP100 and am making sure that there are notes all over my file when my warranty runs out
 
I had mine replaced 4 times. The 4th time stuck after I lowered the car within 500 miles of getting that last replacement.

How do you manage that ?! I took my MX 100D had the same job done in Jan 2020, but the rattle has returned big time, but of the 3 times i took it in SC, the tech always claimed that they couldn't reproduce it (even when I was able to repro it on the drive to the SC), go figure. With covid they can't sit in the car with you anymore so it's been they say / I say thus far. Any good suggestions to convince them otherwise ? (tried showing them a video of the noise but they're adamant that their tech need to hear it for themselves)
 
How do you manage that ?! I took my MX 100D had the same job done in Jan 2020, but the rattle has returned big time, but of the 3 times i took it in SC, the tech always claimed that they couldn't reproduce it (even when I was able to repro it on the drive to the SC), go figure. With covid they can't sit in the car with you anymore so it's been they say / I say thus far. Any good suggestions to convince them otherwise ? (tried showing them a video of the noise but they're adamant that their tech need to hear it for themselves)

Did you take video and show it to them?

They have 4 chances to fix it and then you can start the lemon buyback process. All you have to show is that you had the problem and they didn't fix it and you can document that all with video. Just because they can't reproduce it doesn't mean your trip to have them repair it doesn't count against the repair attempts.

Have you considered lowering the car an inch with longer links?
 
Did you take video and show it to them?

They have 4 chances to fix it and then you can start the lemon buyback process. All you have to show is that you had the problem and they didn't fix it and you can document that all with video. Just because they can't reproduce it doesn't mean your trip to have them repair it doesn't count against the repair attempts.

Have you considered lowering the car an inch with longer links?
Showed them once out of three trips, was hoping third time's the charm. I guess I need to start documenting.
No, didn't want to explore car mods since it's still under warranty