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Do you have shudder on hard acceleration? AKA death rattle?

Do you have shudder on hard acceleration? AKA death rattle?

  • Yes- Performance

    Votes: 109 29.5%
  • Yes- Non-Performance

    Votes: 155 41.9%
  • Have no idea what you're talking about.

    Votes: 27 7.3%
  • No-Performance

    Votes: 30 8.1%
  • No- Non-Performance

    Votes: 49 13.2%

  • Total voters
    370
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wanted to post a picture of the updated vs. the old clevis mount. Looks a little more robust, doesn't it? Some engineer has definitely put some effort in trying to fix the issue.
View attachment 866092

It's been a minnit. Has anyone validated that SB-21-39-001 offers new and improved parts that (relatively) permanently fix the problem? I'm at the beginning of experiencing this issue.

The updated parts do make a notable difference. It won't be permanent as all bushings do fail over time.
 
In my experience, the key was pointing the service team towards SB-21-39-001 part. I think there's an explanation in there somewhere.
I did that the first service request, and even included the TSB PDF in the request. The service "manager" simply said "no". But now providing two examples of other owners' invoices this year, and a link to this forum thread worked.
 
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Reactions: TSLA Pilot
I think they are considered. There has always been the performance version of the Model S. It hasn't always been called "performance" but the version was always noted in one way or another.

For the death rattle, the suspension doesn't seem to be the factor that is causing the issue. Therefore there is no need to make a distinction between air and regular suspensions. I could be wrong on this point but most of the issues seem to be related to the half shafts and how the front motor is anchor to the frame.
 
I'm on my second set of the upgraded half-shafts. They do seem to solve the original problem - however I believe what they tried to do was to make the shafts as long as possible, that is my guess anyway. If you are lowered even 10mm, you will feel some mild vibration under moderate acceleration at speeds above 50mph. Unlowered will be better. Although the second set is better than the first for me.
 
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I have an issue that I believe is related to the shudder problem.

I did have the repair done a while back. And for a while it worked fine. After a few months the issue started to come back. I took it back to Tesla on a Rainy day - and the car just wouldn't shudder that day so they didn't accept the car. They did mention they never saw anything fail - so they kind of dismissed it like not a big deal. As a result of their feedback I too kind of treated the issue like it wasn't a big deal.

Well.... Last week I was taking my daughter to school, and in my typical fashion I made a right turn that then goosed it to merge with traffic. In the goosing phase I heard a terrible pop bang sound. Car felt fine - so although I was freaked out and in high alert due to this loud bang - I thought it might just be something that would pass. At the next stop light, as I put the car in motion (medium/low acceleration since I was in traffic) the car made a terrible clanking sound when I started to get in motion. Removing the regen and switched to Chill mode and that seemed to help a bit - as long as I didn't change direction.

I got back home and I needed to figure this issue out, so I removed the frunk lining and put my phone camera aimed at the motor. When I put it in Drive the motor would move up very noticeably; and it would drop back down when I put the car in Reverse. Front motor mount failure is my assumption.

Tesla has the car now - and my drivetrain warranty expires next month. It looks like they are putting a new front motor in there? Seems odd - I'll have to update once I get the car back and study the invoice. Also asking them to check the rear drive unit for coolant on speed sensor - but they seemed to not want to look. I did bring the car in way sooner than the appointment and they accepted it as a safety issue.

TL/DR - I believe the hard acceleration shudder broke my front motor mounts.
 
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I have an issue that I believe is related to the shudder problem.

I did have the repair done a while back. And for a while it worked fine. After a few months the issue started to come back. I took it back to Tesla on a Rainy day - and the car just wouldn't shudder that day so they didn't accept the car. They did mention they never saw anything fail - so they kind of dismissed it like not a big deal. As a result of their feedback I too kind of treated the issue like it wasn't a big deal.

Well.... Last week I was taking my daughter to school, and in my typical fashion I made a right turn that then goosed it to merge with traffic. In the goosing phase I heard a terrible pop bang sound. Car felt fine - so although I was freaked out and in high alert due to this loud bang - I thought it might just be something that would pass. At the next stop light, as I put the car in motion (medium/low acceleration since I was in traffic) the car made a terrible clanking sound when I started to get in motion. Removing the regen and switched to Chill mode and that seemed to help a bit - as long as I didn't change direction.

I got back home and I needed to figure this issue out, so I removed the frunk lining and put my phone camera aimed at the motor. When I put it in Drive the motor would move up very noticeably; and it would drop back down when I put the car in Reverse. Front motor mount failure is my assumption.

Tesla has the car now - and my drivetrain warranty expires next month. It looks like they are putting a new front motor in there? Seems odd - I'll have to update once I get the car back and study the invoice. Also asking them to check the rear drive unit for coolant on speed sensor - but they seemed to not want to look. I did bring the car in way sooner than the appointment and they accepted it as a safety issue.

TL/DR - I believe the hard acceleration shudder broke my front motor mounts.
At least you’re getting it done before the warranty is up! What trim is this on
 
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