Data point, just like the other poster, I put butyl and DOUBLE foam tape inside the REAR wheel wells and while road noise is minimally quieter, the boominess is still there. From reading another forum, it is suggested that the large cast design of the rear it really can't be fixed. I think the reason the model 3 is quieter is because there is an additional support brace on top of the trunk that runs across the bottom of the rear window vs the top of the model y where the glass is with no insulation or ridgidness.
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Ear pain/Pressure help
- Thread starter justobuf
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- sound proofing
For the boominess, on a scale of 1-10 how much of a difference did it make for the pressure? not the ride quality. Thanks.
AGREED! I did all of the above for a 2007 Honda Odyssey, including removing door panels, all seats, carpeting, everything was covered except I didn't remove the headliner. It made a big difference.
I'm too old (and lazy????) to do it again. I'd take it to someone in a heartbeat, if I could trust their diligence.
Ok, I just ordered more butyl and sticky foam (Noico) and decided I'm going to pull the rear panels again and cover as much as I can. While I'm waiting for Amazon to arrive what looks promising is behind the panels where the wheel well is and higher where the seat belts are have resonance through the frame. I did notice after driving with the wheel wells deadened (from the outside behind the liner) it did sound a bit better after having more time on the road. I plan on DOUBLING everything, so instead of 80 mil noico I will add another 80 mil layer on top of that followed by foam then another layer of the foam. Even if the boominess is there but suppressed to a lower resonance I will be ok.
Update: boominess reduced by 50-60% based on my unscientific ears. As mentioned, I doubled up the butyl and foam sheets. Behind the left and right wheel well covers there is a lot of resonance from the quarter panels as well as around and inside where the seat belt mechanism bolts on to as it’s hollow. I focused mainly on the interior wheel wells where the shocks mounts to. I also added all around the inside AND outside of the plastic trunk box (I removed the box). I thinks it’s worth it, took me 4 hours, I suggest getting electric scissors as cutting takes so much time and is tedious. The next and final step for me is the install MPP coilovers which I have on order, boominess only happens when going over bumps.
![angus[Y]oung](/tmc/data/avatars/l/141/141264.jpg?1620160343){kind=avatar}
angus[Y]oung
Active Member
dhanson865
Well-Known Member
and
Update. The ear pressure is gone after adjusting the rubber stoppers in the following way. Screw the two center ones above the rear bumper all the way in and leave them there. Contact is not necessary there. Then adjust the ones on the sides until it just barely makes solid contact. This is usually about 9-10mm above the plastic collar around the rubber stopper. The issue is that if the rear hatch doesn't make tight contact with the seal all the way around (if the stoppers are pulled out too much and are too tall), it will cause buffetting as if a rear window is cracked open. So don't unscrew them too much. However, if isn't tight enough, there will be bouncing of the hatch, which is like having a mini toilet plunger on your ear drum.
I'm not sure I agree with you. Those pads need to make contact, so all SIX points are supported: the hinges, the side/middle, and the hatch edge.
I agree to start by moving the hatch edge stops, at the bumper, all the way in, and then adjusting the side pads until their gently supporting the weight of the hatch. This might take several attempts, with a helper, and a strip of paper pinched by the pad/stop. Once they're making contact, do the same thing with the 2 hatch/bumper pads. It took me several open/close of the hatch to accomplish this, and now, at 9k miles, no more "mini plunger on my ear drum." (GREAT image!)
Could you say more about this? How tight should the pinch be? I assume that the 'before' = you can easily pull the paper out. But how tight is the 'after'? Is it something like "just tight enough to feel some resistance on the paper but you can still pull the paper out" or something tighter than that?
Here is another observation.
I was reading about ear pressure and was not experiencing it on Gemini 19.
Got a set of Uberturbines 21” and it started. But at that point didn’t click. Went through adjusting trunk and it helped a bit but it was still there. Not horrible but occasionally noticeable. It was definitely an improvement and I was surprised that those stops were not adjusted at all. May be only one.
My wife didn’t care for Uberturbines and wanted softer ride.
So went back to 19” TSportline with Michelin and I don’t notice ear pressure issue anymore.
Gemini 19 - 500 miles
Uberturbines 21 -1800 miles
TSportline 19 -2500 miles
I was reading about ear pressure and was not experiencing it on Gemini 19.
Got a set of Uberturbines 21” and it started. But at that point didn’t click. Went through adjusting trunk and it helped a bit but it was still there. Not horrible but occasionally noticeable. It was definitely an improvement and I was surprised that those stops were not adjusted at all. May be only one.
My wife didn’t care for Uberturbines and wanted softer ride.
So went back to 19” TSportline with Michelin and I don’t notice ear pressure issue anymore.
Gemini 19 - 500 miles
Uberturbines 21 -1800 miles
TSportline 19 -2500 miles
Probably wouldn't hurt to get some professional advice. This company looks good and they have a similar product: Second Skin Audio: Soundproofing & Noise Control Solutions
The problem here is likely not one they have come across, but who knows.
The problem here is likely not one they have come across, but who knows.
Ok that's how tight my 4 contact points are as well. Still wish it were a little better in terms of the ear pressure, i.e. I'd like it to be 100% gone regardless of speed. Mine kicks in at around 60mph. Granted not nearly as bad as it was. But still unfortunate.
Ok hopefully final update/results. I just got the Mountain Pass Performance coilovers installed and along with the sound deadening I did, the boominess in my unscientific ears has been reduced by 70%. I want to clarify, this is A LOT of work and money. I would say about $3,500 at least for the coils, alignment then a few boxes of butyl and closed cell foam to go on top of it. It's sad that I had to spend this kind of money to do this. Also the rubber spray in a few posts above didn't seem to make a difference in road noise.
The shocks feel much better than stock, when I take the same roads that I do with stock, I don't notice the boom because the shocks are absorbing the imperfections in the road more. I was on borderline trading the car in and might still when the Rivians come out. The car does feel "floaty" like a boat which I'm still getting used to but I can adjust the firmness if need be. Overall, I don't know if I would do this again as it was tedious.
The shocks feel much better than stock, when I take the same roads that I do with stock, I don't notice the boom because the shocks are absorbing the imperfections in the road more. I was on borderline trading the car in and might still when the Rivians come out. The car does feel "floaty" like a boat which I'm still getting used to but I can adjust the firmness if need be. Overall, I don't know if I would do this again as it was tedious.
gundarx
Member
Thanks for the update and I agree with your thoughts.
To reduce the floaty-ness, and get handling that’s significantly better than stock Performance, try these settings especially as the shocks get more miles and become even better:
front 12/12 (compression/rebound turns from full stiff)
rear 10/9 (compression/rebound turns from full stiff)
Essentially the same settings recommended on MPP’s “initial settings” but one turn softer on rear rebound makes it just perfectly balanced for me on the factory 21” wheels. With the noise treatment you’ve performed it should be a sweet combination of great handling and front/rear passenger comfort.
If that’s too firm for you especially with the new suspension which should get even better over the months, you can set the rears to:
12/10 (compression/rebound turns from full stiff)
BTW, you will soon find that you will be hearing the interior rattles, crashing sounds, creaking, etc. that plague this car but have not been as noticeable due to all the other prevailing noise (pressure, cabin boom, stiff ride) which have been addressed by the coilovers and noise treatment. Felt tape to any panels that contact (including phone charger area, armrest cover, seatbelt tracks) and applying Krytox grease (GPL 205 is what I used) to any vegan leather surfaces that contact, especially the 2nd-row middle seat and headrests will reduce/eliminate the annoyances.
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