It's very interesting we appear to still not have a smoking gun when it comes to the root cause of the booming sound of the model y. I feel ear pressure just by closing my door. Why does this happen? Are the cabin pressure relief valves not working the way they're supposed to and so there's always an air bubble inside the car? does anyone know where they're located?
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Ear pain/Pressure help
- Thread starter justobuf
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Which lubricant would you guys recommend using when fishing the vinyl tubing?
There are many different options but I don't want to end up with some oily residue that might keep dripping from the holes and even more important, don't want something that will have an odor noticable inside the car. Also, as the car is not a very well and constantly ventilated area, and lubricants of course don't offgas quickly at all so I don't want to create a situation that adds a significant VOCs to the interior of the car, I have a baby that rides in a car seat in the back ...
If anyone did some research on that and found a good option for a lubricant then please share
There are many different options but I don't want to end up with some oily residue that might keep dripping from the holes and even more important, don't want something that will have an odor noticable inside the car. Also, as the car is not a very well and constantly ventilated area, and lubricants of course don't offgas quickly at all so I don't want to create a situation that adds a significant VOCs to the interior of the car, I have a baby that rides in a car seat in the back ...
If anyone did some research on that and found a good option for a lubricant then please share
I used soapy waterWhich lubricant would you guys recommend using when fishing the vinyl tubing?
There are many different options but I don't want to end up with some oily residue that might keep dripping from the holes and even more important, don't want something that will have an odor noticable inside the car. Also, as the car is not a very well and constantly ventilated area, and lubricants of course don't offgas quickly at all so I don't want to create a situation that adds a significant VOCs to the interior of the car, I have a baby that rides in a car seat in the back ...
If anyone did some research on that and found a good option for a lubricant then please share
I filled a cup with water and a bit of dishwashing liquid. Mixed it thoroughly and used it on the drain hole in the OEM gasket while adding intermitently to the tubing. I preferred this to anything else as the only thing that would remain in the gasket would be a little bit of that detergent and you could always add water from the top to re-activate it if you're trying to get a longer segment in.Which lubricant would you guys recommend using when fishing the vinyl tubing?
There are many different options but I don't want to end up with some oily residue that might keep dripping from the holes and even more important, don't want something that will have an odor noticable inside the car. Also, as the car is not a very well and constantly ventilated area, and lubricants of course don't offgas quickly at all so I don't want to create a situation that adds a significant VOCs to the interior of the car, I have a baby that rides in a car seat in the back ...
If anyone did some research on that and found a good option for a lubricant then please share
Which lubricant would you guys recommend using when fishing the vinyl tubing?
I bought this one (I plan to clean up the entire after Im done using it not too worried about odors): https://a.co/d/9GFjX0iThere are many different options but I don't want to end up with some oily residue that might keep dripping from the holes and even more important, don't want something that will have an odor noticable inside the car. Also, as the car is not a very well and constantly ventilated area, and lubricants of course don't offgas quickly at all so I don't want to create a situation that adds a significant VOCs to the interior of the car, I have a baby that rides in a car seat in the back ...
If anyone did some research on that and found a good option for a lubricant then please share
ilovecoffee
Member
Well, the trunk door is pretty well the target of the smoking gun, with the interior glass surface area being another acoustical challenge. Various solutions so far, as you know, are well documented here.
The cabin pressure valves are located behind the rear bumper and accessible behind the felt-covered boxes of those storage bin areas. The flaps go one way. When I stuffed my rear wheel wells full of acoustical foam, I felt that it did affect cabin pressure negatively. So I know they must be working, and preventing air flow in this cavity above the rear wheel well, is a bad idea.
Etsy has a lot of 3d printer hobbyists that will print for you cost-effectively. Or your local library might have 3D printers for free usage. Or if you're handy, you could make them yourself, as originally shown by MY-Y which a lot of other people have done. Easy and effective low frequency fix
2023 MY here, the wheel well is already insulated with sound deadening material. Per image below, the black plastic sheath over the wheel well is lined with some sort of acoustic foam, then there's a large block of white foam to the right of it, and a layer of black insulation to the left.
Anecdotally this is quite a disappointment as the quite bad acoustics of MY do not seem to have any reasonable and meaningful way to improve them. I've also done the vinyl tubing in the hatch as well as the door seals. Wouldn't recommend any of these steps to '23 MY owners, but of course YMMV.
Anecdotally this is quite a disappointment as the quite bad acoustics of MY do not seem to have any reasonable and meaningful way to improve them. I've also done the vinyl tubing in the hatch as well as the door seals. Wouldn't recommend any of these steps to '23 MY owners, but of course YMMV.
My 20 has the same. That’s just foam. CLD underneath that (and on the metal skins) and CCF+MLV on top of it helped a lot.
are you guys cutting the OEM door seals to stuff tubing in?
Seals are contacting or they aren't. More pressure on them isn't necessarily a good thing.
I don't know how much those are $ but usually pretty expensive to replace if you tear them.
If you're going to stuff the seals w/ tubing, only use silicone lube. wd40, grease, oil or the like will swell and eat rubber eventually.
For low freq 'boom' and thuds, you have to troubleshoot by thinking of the car as a speaker box. The rear tub is basically a bass tube and the rear hatch movement is probably the majority of the cause since that giant piece can move air with a little movement.
I can't see adding vinyl tubing doing much.
Tesla put no seam sealer on the doors so that is probably a big contributing factor with sound insulation and acoustics as well as weather.
That pissed me off the most about this car, but not much you can do about it.
Some pieces of dynamat on the inside of the door skins, just a small piece would be enough, and adjusting the rear hatch with stronger bumpstops is the only thing I can think of.
Seals are contacting or they aren't. More pressure on them isn't necessarily a good thing.
I don't know how much those are $ but usually pretty expensive to replace if you tear them.
If you're going to stuff the seals w/ tubing, only use silicone lube. wd40, grease, oil or the like will swell and eat rubber eventually.
For low freq 'boom' and thuds, you have to troubleshoot by thinking of the car as a speaker box. The rear tub is basically a bass tube and the rear hatch movement is probably the majority of the cause since that giant piece can move air with a little movement.
I can't see adding vinyl tubing doing much.
Tesla put no seam sealer on the doors so that is probably a big contributing factor with sound insulation and acoustics as well as weather.
That pissed me off the most about this car, but not much you can do about it.
Some pieces of dynamat on the inside of the door skins, just a small piece would be enough, and adjusting the rear hatch with stronger bumpstops is the only thing I can think of.
Are the molded acoustic panels adhesive pressed onto the metal or just form fit?
I ask because if they are not adhered, it could still be resonating.
No, watch this video before doing anything:
One of our members @ilovecoffee kindly put this great video together.
The door seals are open on both ends and throughout. No need to cut anything.
Also, if you look at the door seals they pivot away from the door, so you’re not necessarily squeezing them. I used backer rod, which is just closed cell foam. Silicone lubricant as well.
If your car is anything like mine, the seals have already fallen off several times and require re-gluing.
I agree that they have nothing to do with the boom/ear pressure, which is why I stopped discussing them here.
CLD (like dynamat) helped a lot with the low frequency sound around the rear quarters.
I imagine some in the hatch would help, but understand that the door lift mech can’t lift much more weight without stalling.
CLD and MLV in door has helped me with previous cars, but I don’t intend on going that far with this one.
Interesting points.
Just to clarify, don't think any dynamat would help in the hatch. But I think improved bumpstops would.
Guarantee all your other cars have fully seam sealed doors. If I have need to pull the door cards, i'll add some dynamat to the skins if there isn't some there already.
I've put butyl and foam in the hatch, and it didn't improve the noise. In addition, it doesn't take much butyl there before the hatch won't auto open.
When all is said and done, I found the best path is:
1. Rigid stops to remove the 41 Hz bass. Easy and effective low frequency fix
Adding the tubing has a similar effect.
2. Butyl under the grey rear wheel well foam reduces road noise.
3. Butyl and foam layer in the empty cavity in the quarter panels. Note that from post 1207, it looks like this is no longer needed for 2023.
These are, by far, in priority order.
ilovecoffee
Member
Did you open that part up? I wrapped it in MLV+CCF, so I know I do.
This picture is inside the trunk area. The space in the wheel well that we fill with CLD and the rest can’t be seen from this angle.
Edit: It’s this piece of foam.
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ilovecoffee
Member
Yeah I disassembled everything and put butyl in most places. I can't remember there being bare white foam though. EDIT: Oh I think maybe there's exposed white foam closer to the rear seats in the upper portion. It just looks deceiving in that previous photo like it's lower and closer to the back.
On the other side of the wheel well there is foam covered with that same rubber membrane that's over top the wheel well foam.
PecuniaNonOlet
Member
I believe that is the foam on the inside of the trim panel. Pic of my panel below.
Edit: this is the passenger side panel but my driver side panel has white foam like this too.
