ilovecoffee
Member
Yeah my bad.I believe that is the foam on the inside of the trim panel. Pic of my panel below.
View attachment 907869
LOL. Shame on me.Yup, my picture was a screenshot from your video.
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Yeah my bad.I believe that is the foam on the inside of the trim panel. Pic of my panel below.
View attachment 907869
LOL. Shame on me.Yup, my picture was a screenshot from your video.
That's the only thing I didn't attempt as I do not have access to a 3D printer.Sorry to hear that @Myles. Did you do the hatch stoppers (envelope method) and the 3d printed hard hatch stoppers?
That's the only thing I didn't attempt as I do not have access to a 3D printer.
That said it looks like I missed that the foam on top of the rear wheel wells is a known entity, and that is to be removed to then put down the butyl. So I might give that a try as of yet (having already returned my butyl, lol), just not sure if there will be enough impact to warrant the effort at this point. It seems like MY is just economy car at best acoustics no matter what.
You can DIY rigid hatch stops as well courtesy of MY-Y who came up with it. IMHO having both is the best outcome.
Are you sure you re-calibrated your hatch stops after putting in vinyl tubing? There are no intrinsic differences between 2023 and 2022 models in this regard. If the hatch stops are not calibrated properly, you'll still have road noise/pressure going over bumps. Purely road noise over bumps (no pressure), can be mitigated with butyl over those wheel wells.
For the rigid hatch stops I'm not crafty. If someone was selling, I'd be buying. Not sure I understand how much those help beyond the vinyl tubing fix. As for the butyl I should probably re-purchase and rip things apart again, didn't realize the foam in there was a known entity I should have removed.
Good question on the rigid hatch stops, should have touched on this. I don't understand the hatch stops or know what constitutes calibration. For all I know I made things worse. Once the hatch closed and seemed solid I gave up on everything.
I put butyl and then foam under the OE foam over the wheels and didn't see any difference. I also made the diy hatch stops and tried the vinyl tubing (3 different sizes). Nothing seemed to make a difference. I did lose a panel clip and tore up my weather seal a little. It makes me wonder if I contributed to any rattling back there. I also went with oversized tires on 18" wheels for a tiny improvement.That's the only thing I didn't attempt as I do not have access to a 3D printer.
That said it looks like I missed that the foam on top of the rear wheel wells is a known entity, and that is to be removed to then put down the butyl. So I might give that a try as of yet (having already returned my butyl, lol), just not sure if there will be enough impact to warrant the effort at this point. It seems like MY is just economy car at best acoustics no matter what.
No. In all likelihood it's inconceivable how that could ever affect the warranty.I’m curious, does anyone know whether doing any of these (installing butyl, vinyl tubing) will void the warranty? They can probably be removed if necessary but I’m wondering if someone has to go through the trouble of removing them before a scheduled service. I’d imagine removing butyl would probably ruin them
Agree. As I reported previously, I found no measurable difference after putting the butyl on the rear wheel wells.I put butyl and then foam under the OE foam over the wheels and didn't see any difference. I also made the diy hatch stops and tried the vinyl tubing (3 different sizes). Nothing seemed to make a difference. I did lose a panel clip and tore up my weather seal a little. It makes me wonder if I contributed to any rattling back there. I also went with oversized tires on 18" wheels for a tiny improvement.
I will say that at 10k miles it seems to bother me less. Either the car is breaking in or I'm acclimating. I'm noticing the booming less and now am focused on the slap impact over expansion joints and potholes. As soon as I get my tax return I'm ordering Mountain Performance Comfort Coilovers.
IIRC that was a Model 3 and they talked about putting it all over the door panels/exterior facing panels, which didn't make a difference for me either. It also might be difficult to measure if not using dB-C weighted since the noise is quite low freq.Agree. As I reported previously, I found no measurable difference after putting the butyl on the rear wheel wells.
If I remember correctly, Bjorn (the guy with YouTube channel) had a professional job done on the whole car and found no noticeable improvement.
That makes sense. I think there are two primary sources of noise. One is the wind (as the car moves through the air), and there is not much we can do (unless we change the glass and the roof). The other is the road noise which putting the butyl on the wheel wells might help, but doing a good job of sealing the wells is not easy (unfortunately).IIRC that was a Model 3 and they talked about putting it all over the door panels/exterior facing panels, which didn't make a difference for me either. It also might be difficult to measure if not using dB-C weighted since the noise is quite low freq.
I feel like the hidden space below the trunk floor has something to do with the booming noise (in my car). With the hatch open, if I hit the trunk floor gently with my fist I can replicate the overwhelming pressure since the cavity below is empty. Like a few others have pointed out in this and other threads, if the trunk has a few heavier items it helps with the overall acoustics. I recently purchased an OEM parcel shelf (after not being happy with the aftermarket options) and I want to additionally lay a heavy acoustic blanket underneath and on top.I have a 2023 MY which has a significant booming over uneven road surface (the hatch stoppers are adjusted) and I'm planning to do the tubing method and eventually hard stoppers if neeeded.
Lately though, I've noticed that if my trunk is full with items it's reducing the booming significantly. It doesn't even have to be heavy or really bulky items but just many items that are covering most of the trunk area. Which probably means that the cause of the booming is not just the hatch movement that creates an air movement but actually an interaction between the hatch movement and that big trunk cavity with a rigid and actually a noisy and boomy surface which acts like a boombox. When filled with items, then probably the air movement / sound waves that are created by the hatch movement are absorbed and not being bounced into the cabin, or something like that.
This might also explain why some people had success reducing the boominess with a parcel shelf, which I don't use and I don't recall that it had any significant effect on the booming but maybe it depends on some additional factors like the composition and length of the parcel shelf which I think Tesla changed over the years.
I'm curious if anyone tried to line the trunk with some heavy duty moving blankets to see if it helps reducing the booming, an additional positive effect of it might be that items will stay more secure as the carpeted surface is too slippery and unsecured items inside not a full trunk always move around.
I stretched the round part out longer on mine. You could also stretch the octagonal part if you want, it’s probably fine.@ilovecoffee , should I be concerned that my measurements for the rubber protruding from the octagonal plastic are 11 and 13mm and your 3d models only go to 9mm? I'd like to add the rigid stops. Would I just stretch the top part of that model (keeping the octagonal part the exact size?
13mm seems a bit extreme.@ilovecoffee , should I be concerned that my measurements for the rubber protruding from the octagonal plastic are 11 and 13mm and your 3d models only go to 9mm? I'd like to add the rigid stops. Would I just stretch the top part of that model (keeping the octagonal part the exact size?
I have a 2023 MY which has a significant booming over uneven road surface (the hatch stoppers are adjusted) and I'm planning to do the tubing method and eventually hard stoppers if neeeded.
Lately though, I've noticed that if my trunk is full with items it's reducing the booming significantly. It doesn't even have to be heavy or really bulky items but just many items that are covering most of the trunk area. Which probably means that the cause of the booming is not just the hatch movement that creates an air movement but actually an interaction between the hatch movement and that big trunk cavity with a rigid and actually a noisy and boomy surface which acts like a boombox. When filled with items, then probably the air movement / sound waves that are created by the hatch movement are absorbed and not being bounced into the cabin, or something like that.
This might also explain why some people had success reducing the boominess with a parcel shelf, which I don't use and I don't recall that it had any significant effect on the booming but maybe it depends on some additional factors like the composition and length of the parcel shelf which I think Tesla changed over the years.
I'm curious if anyone tried to line the trunk with some heavy duty moving blankets to see if it helps reducing the booming, an additional positive effect of it might be that items will stay more secure as the carpeted surface is too slippery and unsecured items inside not a full trunk always move around.
To preface I've done:I have a 2023 MY which has a significant booming over uneven road surface (the hatch stoppers are adjusted) and I'm planning to do the tubing method and eventually hard stoppers if neeeded.
Lately though, I've noticed that if my trunk is full with items it's reducing the booming significantly. It doesn't even have to be heavy or really bulky items but just many items that are covering most of the trunk area. Which probably means that the cause of the booming is not just the hatch movement that creates an air movement but actually an interaction between the hatch movement and that big trunk cavity with a rigid and actually a noisy and boomy surface which acts like a boombox. When filled with items, then probably the air movement / sound waves that are created by the hatch movement are absorbed and not being bounced into the cabin, or something like that.
This might also explain why some people had success reducing the boominess with a parcel shelf, which I don't use and I don't recall that it had any significant effect on the booming but maybe it depends on some additional factors like the composition and length of the parcel shelf which I think Tesla changed over the years.
I'm curious if anyone tried to line the trunk with some heavy duty moving blankets to see if it helps reducing the booming, an additional positive effect of it might be that items will stay more secure as the carpeted surface is too slippery and unsecured items inside not a full trunk always move around.