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EV Offer frunk not unlatching *SOLVED*

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The latch motor does need improvement as it is once again the issue. Seems to last a couple of years at best and then issues start. I am sure it is more likely with cars in winter/salt conditions but eventually all will fail I would think. Just needs to be well sealed to correct the issue.

By the way, I did install the new software which can sometimes get it to work like it should however with a dective latch motor this is only a bandaid fix until the motor is replaced.
 
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I'll be on my 3rd latch motor once it gets sent to me (Model 3). Bought the kit originally in July 2021, latch motor failed end of October 2022. I got a replacement motor from EVOffer FOC even though kit was just slightly out of warranty. Fitted replacement latch motor in January 2023, and now this one has died too in exactly the same way. I think I've probably used the frunk 10-15 times in all of that time. Just had to shell out $70 for another latch motor, even though the last one didn't even make it a year before failing.

Fortunately (touch wood) both times the latch motor has failed I have still been able to open the frunk - it pops open, the system just doesn't pull it shut.

From the looks of it this new fancy firmware that saves you if the latch motor fails and doesn't let you open the frunk doesn't apply to my frunk kit (I have a Variant A system, I think) - which is annoying.

I can't get hold of Ray at all on Telegram anymore, he doesn't reply (or read) anything I send, and "EVOffer Support" takes a full 24 hours or more to reply to any message, and when I do get something from them and reply instantly I usually have to wait another 24 hours, like they're replying to me at the end of the day or something.

Getting a bit worried now about the long term reliability of this kit. These latch motors shouldn't be failing when they're not even in active use... and the greatly reduced communication is scaring me as well. I don't know what I'm supposed to do if they just stop replying entirely.
 
Just had a tesla tech out to do something unrelated and after power cycling my bonnet wouldn't close properly, couldn't for the life of me remember how to reset it. Ended up taking it all apart and checking it all over, plus making some adjustments to the latch that i've been meaning to do for ages because sometimes it wouldn't quite close properly but reading this has got me on edge a little....I'm tempted to rip it all out but when it works its great and I use it so much more because it has power....
 
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Did you get it working? I removed mine completely.

Yeah I did in the end. Flashed it to the latest firmware, seeing as I had access to it anyway and adjusted the latch, which i've been meaning to do since I put the bloody thing in some 2 years ago and its currently working like a dream.

I do keep worrying its going to bite me in the ass one of these days though, if the 12V dies or something.
 
OK, so mine has failed it seems (see Is this frunk going to cost me?)

My concern is what I then do if I can get the frunk open. I did not install this and have no idea how to disable it to rely solely on the OEM latch and release.

So, if I can release the frunk tomorrow, what should I do to revert back to what I had before this was installed 3.5 years ago?
Well, you have to uninstall the aftermarket auto-frunk parts. There are how to (install guide) for your reference from
EVOffer Website.

You probably do not have the OEM struts so you need to have those (specific for your Model 3 version coz I think it there maybe difference thru the years).

Back to the problem of not able to unlatch the hood - you might need to cut the cable of auto frunk latching mechanism in order to release the hood. If I were to look (your 3 is right hand drive looks like) I would follow the release cable that is usually placed coming out of the 12V hood-release cables from the circular cover in the front bumper.

Hope that helped. Good Luck!
 
I do actually have the original struts. I can see the installation video. What I'm not entirely sure about is the minimum I have to do to revert this back to its original state. I guess I could figure that out from the video.

The frunk has failed again, and the release string that I attached which I hoped would work to release it isn't working so I'm going to have to trigger the release cable... and hope it doesn't snap!
 
I do actually have the original struts. I can see the installation video. What I'm not entirely sure about is the minimum I have to do to revert this back to its original state. I guess I could figure that out from the video.

The frunk has failed again, and the release string that I attached which I hoped would work to release it isn't working so I'm going to have to trigger the release cable... and hope it doesn't snap!
This method worked for me.
 
Thanks @Midnightsun but, as I said, trying that only snapped the cable although the first time I got the frunk open it worked. However, I've now got a new method that works even if you snap the cable because I've just successfully got into the frunk.

Pull the cable as far as you can out of the towing hole. Strip back about 6 inches of the black cable cover.
20240202_094157.jpg


Grab some snub nosed pliers and grip the cable perpendicular to it. Wrap the cable around the end of the pliers to give yourself some leverage.

20240202_111616 (1).jpg


Then pull as hard as you can. You'll be surprised how hard you have to pull but you've got nothing to lose at this point anyway so don't worry how hard you pull. My frunk popped open at this point. Hopefully yours will too. It did stop on the secondary latch, but pressing the frunk button on the app unlocked this for me and then the arms took over and it opened fully.
 
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Well done.

That method is what EVOffer said in a later video that one would need to do in this situation. I naively thought you'd just have to pull on this cable using the yellow ring on the end, and it would open with a reasonable amount of force. As soon as I saw that you need to use pliers and an insane amount of pulling force - I thought "ok this is a one time only thing".

As great as an automated frunk is, and I enjoyed having it for several months even though I didn't use it often enough to justify it really, when it does go wrong it's a massive pain in the balls.

if I felt like the latching motor had been designed for the car, or was even waterproofed, then I'd feel more confident about it. As it is though it isn't, and the frunk area is not sealed from the elements so condensation will be a problem in there. You can see this in the tarnishing of metal components.
 
The aftermarket units work well with one flaw, the latching motor/release cable assembly is not sealed well enough so it starts to corrode inside which seizes it up. EV Offer sent me the latest latching motor and cable assembly after the last failure which I sealed up even more with silicone before installing. I should mention the newer updated unit was sealed much better than the old. Also make sure you install it in a place not exposed to road spray. Fingers crossed, so far it been working perfectly for the last 6 months.
 
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The aftermarket units work well with one flaw, the latching motor/release cable assembly is not sealed well enough so it starts to corrode inside which seizes it up. EV Offer sent me the latest latching motor and cable assembly after the last failure which I sealed up even more with silicone before installing. I should mention the newer updated unit was sealed much better than the old. Also make sure you install it in a place not exposed to road spray. Fingers crossed, so far it been working perfectly for the last 6 months.
That’s a little like, “operation successful unfortunately patient died.” The whole point of any of these solutions is make accessing the frunk easier; all of these solutions make it easier for a time and then make it absurdly difficult (pulling off a wheel, removing the wheel well trim, and then cutting a cable to get to your groceries!?)
 
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