All cars are affected by the algorithm calibration and balancing issue. Even the older batteries that they don't make anymore like the 85D. It doesn't mean your battery is degraded. It just means the software that is used to do the range calculations periodically gets out of whack.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Figuring out rated range.
- Thread starter No2DinosaurFuel
- Start date
mspohr
Well-Known Member
It's one very interesting data point reported by Tesloop themselves, not Tesla hype.
I find it very encouraging that this high mileage car, routinely charged to 100% (against recommendations) had only a minor capacity loss.
As always, YMMV.
My point was just the opposite, that my range never decreased. I only got a one time, upward bump. Otherwise the charged range equates to the exact percentage of 275.2 miles
I'm saying that is an exception if that's the case. Please share a Tesla App rated range screenshot of your 90% or 100% charge.
rdr1rx
Member
I'm at 9000 miles and never has my 3 month old '16 S70 RWD made those rated numbers.
90% new: 208 (now: 207).
100% new: 230 (now: still 230).
Boatguy
Active Member
With regard to the OP's inquiry, my opinion is that rated range is an illusion. Drive your car enough miles in your daily pattern, and then your road trip style, and measure your actual RR consumed versus odometer miles. Available odometer miles is what's really important and varies with terrain, weather and driving style. It's the ultimate YMMV!
My car "consumes" one mile of RR for every 273W of power consumed. My lifetime average is 303W/mi so broadly speaking, I can expect to be able to drive about 10% less than the RR shown on the dash. But my road trip consumption is more like 285 and my around town is more like 320, not unlike an ICE. Further, your actual consumption is to some degree under your control (speed and driving style), while battery degradation is just going to happen.
I lived on a "battery" boat for five years and became very very aware of the consumption and charge curves under a wide variety of operating situations. My last suggestion is to understand that the batteries are chemistry, not digital electronics and all the algorithms and electronics ultimately are making a guess at what's happening with the chemistry. They are pretty good, but it's not like putting putting a float in a gas tank and knowing that you have exactly 10.2 gallons (if you're not on a hill!).
My car "consumes" one mile of RR for every 273W of power consumed. My lifetime average is 303W/mi so broadly speaking, I can expect to be able to drive about 10% less than the RR shown on the dash. But my road trip consumption is more like 285 and my around town is more like 320, not unlike an ICE. Further, your actual consumption is to some degree under your control (speed and driving style), while battery degradation is just going to happen.
I lived on a "battery" boat for five years and became very very aware of the consumption and charge curves under a wide variety of operating situations. My last suggestion is to understand that the batteries are chemistry, not digital electronics and all the algorithms and electronics ultimately are making a guess at what's happening with the chemistry. They are pretty good, but it's not like putting putting a float in a gas tank and knowing that you have exactly 10.2 gallons (if you're not on a hill!).
If you are trying to figure your total energy consumption,don't forget the vampire. I look at the amount of rated range used, multiply it by the epa factor to get kw, then divide by odo change to get approx.real watts per mi. Add Loss in charging due to inefficiency to the kw calc, and you get pretty good approximation of useage at the meter. (I think I wrote that right). If you are like me and make several short trips a day, total consumption can get ugly in a hurry. On a road trip, the figures can get pretty close. When we quote our consumption, we tend to forget the 40 to 10% lost in charging. Charging at 110 volts is ugly as it can use 30-40% of the electricity for overhead.
brucet999
Active Member
I would be happy to add my car to the chart, if only I had the faintest clue how to do so.
Similar threads
