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Finally!! Eibach has a SR+ lowering spring.

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Cancelled my order with TireRack since they had no ETA when they would get delivered.

Ordered the SR+ springs directly from Eibach ($314 shipped) on Tues afternoon, they shipped out on Wed, and arrived today (Thurs).

I have an appointment later next week to get them installed with wheel alignment.


Eibach-Pro-Kit-TM3-SR-Kit.jpg


Eibach-Pro-Kit-TM3-SR-Part-Number.jpg
 
At 50 I've decided I'm too old to be doing this stuff anymore. Without a lift it is just hard on the body working on the garage floor. Technically this isn't a tough install. My problem was the first side I started on I used my impact gun to remove the sway bar end link nut. It spun it off so fast the nut came off the end of the gun and shot up into the under frunk area somewhere. May have spit out, not sure but after over an hour of looking I couldn't find it. Had to ride my bike up to the hardware store where they didn't have an exact match (nylock flange nut) so used a regular flange nut with a lock washer.

My two biggest suggestions. Remove the TORX pinch nut from the upper control arm last, after you've undone everything else. Also one install video I watched said this was a T50 TORX. My T50 was too big and my T45 was too small.

Second must do. Mark the orientation of the top hat in relation to the lower strut legs so you can get it clocked as accurately as possible. My first side wasn't exact and it was a bitch to get the bolt into the lower control arm. In hindsight I probably should've removed it, recompressed the spring and adjusted it.

The rears are simple. Literally took 20 minutes per side. Since I don't have a drive on lift, I compressed each corner with the floor jack to just where it was about to lift the car off the jack stand then tightened the lower bolts.

Overall I'm not super impressed. The car looks nice and I wanted a "mild" drop but it is almost hard to tell if the car was even lowered. I may buy the updated springs from Eibach but the thought of tearing the front end all apart again isn't too exciting and also think another inch lower in the front may be too much.

Other note. The small plastic fender clips that the frunk snaps into when you put it all back together are crazy weak. Pretty sure I snapped 3 of them on the driver's side.

I will say the car drives great. Quite a bit firmer with a solid planted feel. FWIW, I did trim the bump stop on the front as per the directions.

Did you also trim the rear ? Wondering if I should pull plains off and trim?
 
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After driving a bit more over the weekend I'm just not sure about this set up. One trip had my wife, son, and our standard poodle in the car with me. Not bad on the freeway. Today took a nice drive with my son in the car over some rough old concrete scenic highway, and back on a smooth highway.

I have a few issues. The car feels as if there is very little suspension travel. I've always been one to look out for pot holes and such, now I feel like its all I can focus on to miss them. On smooth roads car feels great, any roughness to it and you feel everything.

Second issue is way more road noise, if this is even possible. Seems to be coming from the front end. FWIW I haven't had the car aligned yet, appointment tomorrow, but I may not keep the appointment......

Third issue is definitely more noise coming from the body of the car. Driving slow yesterday in a downtown area I kept hearing the driver's side window sort of creaking against the car. Frameless windows probably way more susceptible to the body of the car flexing.

Last issue is I'm just not in love with the look. I got right at about 1" drop on the rear but my front came down a full 1.5 inches. So, a tiny bit less than advertised in the rear and a bit more than advertised in the front. To me the front just looks "dumped" and the rear could go a little lower. I'd honestly be fine if the front was 1/2"-3/4" higher. And, for what ever reason, my driver's side rear sits 1/2" higher than the passenger side rear. Fronts are both exactly the same.

Now I'm having an internal debate with myself and my bank account whether or not I want to buy the MPP Comfort Coilovers for $1600. It is a ton of cash, but I love this car and want it to be "right". Jeez, if I order them it will be the third time I've torn the suspension apart. Dang.
 
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^^did you trim the bump stops? Do you feel the uncomfortable ride more on the front or rear?

If you aren’t happy, you can’t go wrong with quality adjustable coilovers. Even if you don’t plan on adjusting, the shock valving abs matching with spring rate will always provide a superior ride and performance. For the long term, their cost over the life of the car is kinda trivial. That said, I am going with just springs but am pretty sure I’ll end up with coilovers at some point down the road LOL
 
^^did you trim the bump stops? Do you feel the uncomfortable ride more on the front or rear?

If you aren’t happy, you can’t go wrong with quality adjustable coilovers. Even if you don’t plan on adjusting, the shock valving abs matching with spring rate will always provide a superior ride and performance. For the long term, their cost over the life of the car is kinda trivial. That said, I am going with just springs but am pretty sure I’ll end up with coilovers at some point down the road LOL
I trimmed the front bump stops, not the rear. The front feels the stiffest. It feels like maybe 2" of suspension travel at best.
 
Sorry you are experiencing this. After reading what MPP has said about the Tesla bumpsrop design and OEM shock travel (~10mm only)...I am beginning to wonder if maybe NOT trimming the stops is better. Even though that is not what Eibach recommends, MPP suggests that the bump stops are a critical portion of the stock suspension. LOL - this shouldn’t be this hard LOL.
 
Sorry you are experiencing this. After reading what MPP has said about the Tesla bumpsrop design and OEM shock travel (~10mm only)...I am beginning to wonder if maybe NOT trimming the stops is better. Even though that is not what Eibach recommends, MPP suggests that the bump stops are a critical portion of the stock suspension. LOL - this shouldn’t be this hard LOL.
Well, unfortunately I've been at this long enough to know the cheaper way is rarely the better way. It isn't really hard, just expensive to do it correctly.
 
Cancelled my order with TireRack since they had no ETA when they would get delivered.

Ordered the SR+ springs directly from Eibach ($314 shipped) on Tues afternoon, they shipped out on Wed, and arrived today (Thurs).

I have an appointment later next week to get them installed with wheel alignment.


Eibach-Pro-Kit-TM3-SR-Kit.jpg


Eibach-Pro-Kit-TM3-SR-Part-Number.jpg

Just got mine in the mail today, I opened it and it looked like this. No instructions, anyone else?
 
Eibach has been doing suspension for a very long time. I followed their instructions and cut the bumpstops both front and rear.
Eibach emailed me these instructions. For more details on actually swapping out the springs, check youtube. Or earlier pages in this thread for youtube links.


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Eibach has been doing suspension for a very long time. I followed their instructions and cut the bumpstops both front and rear.
Eibach emailed me these instructions. For more details on actually swapping out the springs, check youtube. Or earlier pages in this thread for youtube links.


View attachment 534185

I generally advocate following these mfg recommendations but am now a bit uncertain about things. MPP mentions that the model 3 suspension travel to bump stop is very short (~10mm), meaning they believe Tesla designed the bump stops to serve as part of the suspension under normal driving rather than just under very hard use. They state that trimming the bump stops removes the "progressiveness" of the overall bump stop, causing much more harshness when/if the shock contacts the trimmed bump stop. Of course, MPP doesn't recommend using lowering springs on stock shocks anyways :)

On the rear many appear to forego trimming the bump stops as they aren't automatically accessed when swapping out just the springs.

So, question for you -- under normal and aggressive driving...how would you rate the ride relative to stock?
 
I generally advocate following these mfg recommendations but am now a bit uncertain about things. MPP mentions that the model 3 suspension travel to bump stop is very short (~10mm), meaning they believe Tesla designed the bump stops to serve as part of the suspension under normal driving rather than just under very hard use. They state that trimming the bump stops removes the "progressiveness" of the overall bump stop, causing much more harshness when/if the shock contacts the trimmed bump stop. Of course, MPP doesn't recommend using lowering springs on stock shocks anyways :)

On the rear many appear to forego trimming the bump stops as they aren't automatically accessed when swapping out just the springs.

So, question for you -- under normal and aggressive driving...how would you rate the ride relative to stock?

Thats a tough choice. Do you listen to a company who has been around for 100 years or listen to MPP who also knows their stuff! Decisions decisions
 
I finally got around to installing the pro kit for long range rwd after purchasing the springs over a year ago. Initial impressions after about 15 miles is ride feels smoother and corners way better. I'm not hearing any additional road or car noise. Sport mode puts this thing on rails and I could not be happier. Pre alignment and steering is tracking dead straight. Driving over rough patches of road did not feel any worse or noiser than stock springs, to me at least. The look is just icing at this point although that's my main reason for this mod. Now have to decide on spacers but the hard part is out of the way. Paid a mechanic friend of mine 250 and I helped throughout the process, took about 3 hours and that includes sanding down a 13mm thin walled socket which wasn't thin enough. This is the how the car should look from the factory imo.
 

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