Frunk easy close spring mod

[follow.johnny]

You need to find a stronger spring than the one recommended in the video or else the frunk will not open enough for your to lift it up. If you find one, let me know. I don't want to replace the struts.

I just saw your quote from yesterday about other people reporting on the Youtube video from i1Tesla that the new spring with stock struts won't open lift open the frunk. I wonder which stronger spring will work with stock struts.

I went to a local hardware store and bought 3/8" x 2" x .035" springs that came in a 2-pack. With stock struts, a single spring barely opened the frunk. But I was able to easily add the second spring and the frunk opens pretty much the same amount as stock spring.

Can you take a picture of how you added the second spring?

 

[DesertSilver]

Someone is going to yell at me and say something about how bad it is to install 2 springs side by side in this way but here's a pic. Doesn't seem that the second spring can easily fall out on its own BTW.

I also included pics to show the opening amount with one or both of these springs.

 

[follow.johnny]

@stephen503 Thanks for the pics! I wonder what spring weight would work best for stock struts without the need of adding 2 springs.

 

[Garlan Garner]

Yes, it's a LOT easier to close. Not much of a noticeable difference in effort to close from the 1 or 2 replacement springs. I can now latch it closed with a single thumb on the emblem.

I can't believe that Tesla wouldn't have installed the OEM spring and not the one being suggested here. Tesla knows something that obviously isn't circulating in this thread.

 

[Skione65]

In first, waiting for the first person whose hood flies up, smashes the windshield and then rips off in the slipstream and cartwheels down the interstate behind him as people swerve to miss it. Don’t say I didn’t tell you so. It won’t help your Cd much either, having no frunk. Poor Franz and all that wind tunnel testing.

Ski

 

[bawertu2220]

Someone is going to yell at me and say something about how bad it is to install 2 springs side by side in this way but here's a pic. Doesn't seem that the second spring can easily fall out on its own BTW.

I also included pics to show the opening amount with one or both of these springs.

wait why'd you install 2 instead just 1?

 

[DesertSilver]

wait why'd you install 2 instead just 1?

With a single spring, the frunk barely opened so I tried with two and it worked out for me.

 

[bawertu2220]

With a single spring, the frunk barely opened so I tried with two and it worked out for me.

ah okay good to know. and these are the springs that are listed in the video?

 

[DesertSilver]

ah okay good to know. and these are the springs that are listed in the video?

The ones I got are close. Mine are 3/8" x 2" x .035". The ones linked in the video look to be 11/32" x 1.5" x ??? The linked springs doesn't seem to show the last value, which seems to be the coil/wire thickness.

 

[Striker3000s]

Maybe Tesla uses the heavy spring to over engineer the frunk pop. Think if you had snow or ice on the frunk. If the spring they installed wasn't strong enough, people would have an issue with that.

That being said, people in locations that don't have that issue could probably get away with this mod just fine.

 

[ry-ballz]

In first, waiting for the first person whose hood flies up, smashes the windshield and then rips off in the slipstream and cartwheels down the interstate behind him as people swerve to miss it. Don’t say I didn’t tell you so. It won’t help your Cd much either, having no frunk. Poor Franz and all that wind tunnel testing.

Ski

The spring doesn't provide any type of safety. In fact, a lighter spring will make the trunk pop with less force than stock, so theoretically be safer.

 

[bawertu2220]

The ones I got are close. Mine are 3/8" x 2" x .035". The ones linked in the video look to be 11/32" x 1.5" x ??? The linked springs doesn't seem to show the last value, which seems to be the coil/wire thickness.

where'd you get them?

 

[DesertSilver]

where'd you get them?

Lowes. I don't see the exact ones I bought on their website but the packaging looks just like the pic below. The ones I got are sized 3/8" x 2" x .035" and come in a 2-pack for around $4.50.

 

[Nikola M3]

Engineering notes:

I did some more testing and the primary and secondary latches release together when the car is not moving. It does not matter if you release it from the screen, phone app, or the inside release. I extended the release button so I could operate outside when the lid was closed. If the car is moving even a walking speed the screen and phone app are disabled only the inside trunk release will work but once moving it will only activate the primary latch. The secondary latch is NOT activated so the frunk will NOT open all the way, it will only release This has NOTHING to do with the spring strength.

I tested 3 springs;
The spring is pulled 3" when the lid is closed.

A – original - .083 wire, .572 OD – 3” pull = 35 pounds

B – similar to what OP used - .034 wire, .375 OD – 3” pull = 4.5 pounds

C – my preference - .056 wire, .375 OD – 3” pull = 19 pounds

I am testing with original struts, stronger struts will change the results. The “B” spring lets the lid rattle, does not provide enough up pressure when latched.

The “C” spring reduces the rattle to almost the same level as the “A” original spring but still opens quiet and closes easily. If you do not have the stronger struts a spring in the 20 pound range would be the best option.

 

[DesertSilver]

I did some similar examination of the frunk release mechanism and see there are 2 latches (primary and secondary). The primary and secondary latches release together if frunk is opened with the "kidnap button", app, or in-car screen. If I release the primary latch manually/by hand, the secondary latch stays put to prevent the frunk opening all the way.

I didn't dare try to do anything with the car moving but as the above post and linked video shows, the secondary latch doesn't release if frunk is opened with the inside button while car is moving.

Another thing I noticed is that even with no spring, the primary latch is mechanically limited from releasing the frunk hood. The piece that grabs onto the hood cannot rotate to release hood unless the primary latch cable is moved by the car or manually. This release cable is also separately sprung.

And finally, the secondary latch is not linked the spring being discussed in this thread.

All in all, this spring seems to control 2 things:

1. The amount of force exerted upwards on the hood latch when released by the primary release, when opening
2. The amount of force limiting the release from rotating when grabbing on to the hood latch, when closing

Both of these don't seem to have any impact on the safety of the frunk hood opening unintentionally. That seems to be controlled by the vehicles logic on if/when to release the primary and secondary latches.

In my opinion, it seems pretty safe to modify this spring, but obviously I take no responsibility for any unintended consequences.

 

[dtowntez]

Engineering notes:

I did some more testing and the primary and secondary latches release together when the car is not moving. It does not matter if you release it from the screen, phone app, or the inside release. I extended the release button so I could operate outside when the lid was closed. If the car is moving even a walking speed the screen and phone app are disabled only the inside trunk release will work but once moving it will only activate the primary latch. The secondary latch is NOT activated so the frunk will NOT open all the way, it will only release This has NOTHING to do with the spring strength.

I tested 3 springs;
The spring is pulled 3" when the lid is closed.

A – original - .083 wire, .572 OD – 3” pull = 35 pounds

B – similar to what OP used - .034 wire, .375 OD – 3” pull = 4.5 pounds

C – my preference - .056 wire, .375 OD – 3” pull = 19 pounds

I am testing with original struts, stronger struts will change the results. The “B” spring lets the lid rattle, does not provide enough up pressure when latched.

The “C” spring reduces the rattle to almost the same level as the “A” original spring but still opens quiet and closes easily. If you do not have the stronger struts a spring in the 20 pound range would be the best option.

Where'd you find C? Found one at thespringstore.com with 19 pounds and similar specs but minimum order of $40.

 

[Garlan Garner]

The spring doesn't provide any type of safety. In fact, a lighter spring will make the trunk pop with less force than stock, so theoretically be safer.

No way.....

Try to open the Frunk in Chicago with a quarter inch of snow on the hood - with those new springs.

Whatever is in the frunk at that point will be there until spring ( no pun intended ).

 

[dmurphy]

Whatever is in the frunk at that point will be there until spring ( no pun intended ).

Frunk that! I come from the land of the ice and snow .... ain’t nobody got time fo’ dat!

I use my frunk all the time - prefer it to the trunk, especially if I’m picking up food (pizza etc.) Having the isolated compartment means no food smell in the cabin.

 

[Nikola M3]

Where'd you find C? Found one at thespringstore.com with 19 pounds and similar specs but minimum order of $40.

I have a well stocked shop with a good spring assortment. I cut down a longer spring, bent out the last coil, volai custom spring. If you get it close but not exactly what you want take off a coil or two and re-bend the hook.

 

[tyfosho]

I have a well stocked shop with a good spring assortment. I cut down a longer spring, bent out the last coil, volai custom spring. If you get it close but not exactly what you want take off a coil or two and re-bend the hook.

View attachment 407507 View attachment 407508

Can you provide info on length, OD, and wire thickness for if we were trying to find a similar one online?